Problems after timing belt replacement on 1.9 TDI BKC engine _______ (SOLVED)

I'm having a small problem after the timing belt replacement on my Audi A3 8P BKC 1.9 TDI, and it's this:
- The engine starts completely normally when cold.
- FIS states a higher consumption of approximately 2 liters.
- When the engine is warm, it either doesn't start at all, or it starts and immediately stalls, displaying an error message indicating "Crankshaft sensor out of range." However, after 5-10 minutes, it starts again.
- I haven't been able to detect any loss of power so far; it accelerates normally up to 140 km/h, I would say.

The injection process starts at 5.2 bar when the engine is idling. OT is too early!

Now the question, because I don't want to have to loosen the entire engine mount again just to see if the crankshaft is still properly aligned:
Can this be corrected using the long slot feature, or am I off by a whole tooth?

I made a mistake when installing it: I didn't loosen the long bolts (I thought: if I don't adjust anything on the engine, nothing can go wrong) and I tried to put the timing belt over the water pump last. But it wouldn't fit! Then I loosened the long bolts and rotated the camshaft along with the timing belt clockwise until it hit the stop on the long bolt (about 2mm). Then I was able to get it over the water pump. But when I tried to tighten the camshaft, it wouldn't move even 1 mm. Okay, everything is tightened again, and the tensioner is adjusted.

Okay, what can you say? Just adjust the timing belt according to the specifications and pay attention to the correct positions of the crankshaft and camshaft.

In measurement block 4, using VCDS, you will see the "twist angle/synchronization angle" as the last value. Ideally, this value should be less than +/- 1° KW.

Quote:

Now the question, because I don't want to loosen the entire engine mount again to see if the crankshaft is still properly aligned:

There's a marking on the flywheel and a hole in the clutch bell for that purpose. See:
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

Best regards, Rainer.

"The twist angle is always 0.0 at idle, and I've tested it up to 2,100 RPM. It remains consistently at 0.0 without any outliers."

The boost starts immediately after ignition and lasts for approximately 14 seconds, reaching 8-5. Then, it settles down to a value between 4.0 and 3.7 at the top dead center (TDC).

It now also starts poorly, even when it's in bad condition.

The start of fertilization is highly dependent on temperature. Without specifying the coolant temperature, the values are of limited use; they should be acceptable for a cold engine.

Please check measurement block 7 for plausibility. "Could you please run an auto-scan and upload the results?"

Best regards, Rainer.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that everything was cold. The coolant was at 22-24 degrees Celsius, and the oil was at 35 degrees Celsius.

Do you mean "Autoscan" refers to the error memory of the control units?

He's empty; I deleted him. (It said "Camshaft sensor outside of tolerance" in there.)
This error likely only occurs when the device is warm, and then it won't start up again. You have to wait about 10 minutes, and then it will work again.

Quote:

Do you mean "Autoscan" refers to the error memory of the control units?

Yes.

If the timing is correct (which it seems to be), I think the camshaft sensor was damaged during installation.

I had also thought about that, but why only when it's warm? And when I was installing and removing it, I didn't even touch the sensor.
And even when it's warm, it says "G40 measurement value outside of tolerance." Which measurement block can I use to read out the sensor? Because then I could see if it's accurate or if I'm getting unrealistic/nonsense values.

I'm increasingly thinking that the AGR (Abgasrückführung) might not be working correctly, because I tried to verschandeln it because it was very clogged. Removing the throttle body was easy, but since cleaning the EGR valve wasn't so straightforward, I tried to roughly verschandeln it while it was still installed (I know it wasn't a thorough job). However, the throttle body now looks brand new!

The AGR system was diagnosed, but no issues were found.
"When idling, it's producing 400-430 grams per hour. When turned on, it drops to 180-200 grams per hour. Everything seems okay. I still took it apart and cleaned it again. It should be working now."

Slowly but surely, I'm running out of ideas.

Is there still the Hall sensor? Would it make a difference to shield it?

If you disconnect the Hall sensor, the engine won't start because it controls the fuel injection timing.
It's possible that you've installed the timing belt one tooth incorrectly. The camshaft sensor, as mentioned, is located on the camshaft and uses it to determine the top dead center (TDC) position of the engine. The camshaft indicates TDC, but the engine might actually be 4 degrees before TDC (for example).

Hello everyone!

DaBumbe wrote:

If you disconnect the Hall sensor, the engine won't start because it controls the fuel injection timing using that sensor.

And unfortunately, that is incorrect .
If the crankshaft position sensor is disconnected, then yes, but not the camshaft position sensor.
If the NW does not provide an OT signal, the startup time may be delayed by up to 4 motor revolutions; this is because the motor control system can also determine the OT position using the motor encoder and use it as an alternative.

@Lübbi:
I would, in your situation, bite the bullet and go "back to basics" for a while...
Remove the ZR covers again, using special tools (KW-Stop!!!, NW-fixing pin) to detach them by rotating. Only then can you be truly sure that the timing chain fits before you start randomly replacing sensors or other components.

Best regards from Munich!

You are also right, @Dieselbär, assuming the engine has a KW sensor .

Is there a PD without ?

However, if the NW sensor transmits plausible values according to the MStG (German Motor Vehicle Act), but these values deviate significantly from those of the KW sensor, the starting authorization will not be granted.

The increased MFA/FIS consumption by a full 2 liters indicates that there is a problem with the fuel mixture.
Therefore: Control according to what is stated in the relevant regulations, and not according to what one thinks is better.

Best regards from Munich!

You are absolutely right, @Dieselbär. Checking the ZR (likely referring to a specific component or reading) is the way to be on the safe side.
Question for @Dieselbear: Can you help me with a problem I'm having with my Caddy?

DieselBär30x wrote:

Hello everyone! DaBumbe wrote: If you disconnect the Hall sensor, the engine won't start because it controls the fuel injection timing using that sensor. And unfortunately, that is incorrect . If the crankshaft position sensor is disconnected, then yes, but not the camshaft position sensor. If the NW does not provide an OT signal, the startup time may be delayed by up to 4 motor revolutions; this is because the motor control system can also determine the OT position using the motor encoder and use it as an alternative. @Lübbi: I would, in your situation, bite the bullet and go "back to basics" for a while... Remove the ZR covers again, using special tools (KW-Stop!!!, NW-fixing pin) to detach them by rotating. Only then can you be truly sure that the timing chain fits before you start randomly replacing sensors or other components. Best regards from Munich!

I had everything marked out with the tools, but okay, so there will be another garage session tomorrow. I should be able to complete 5 wells by then, now I know how it's done.

DaBumbe wrote:

... Question: @Dieselbär, can you help me with a problem I'm having with my Caddy?

No.
First, it doesn't belong to THIS topic, and second, all the necessary assistance has already been provided there, which you should review first (see MWB 13, 18, 23, etc.). B!).
The crystal ball costs extra .

@Lübbi: Please do that. Also, try it three times in a row, with some manual engine rotations in between, just to be absolutely sure that common mistakes are ruled out.

Best regards from Munich!