Repairing Wiring Harnesses (Trunk, etc.)

Hello,

For automotive applications, there are, among other things, FLY and FLRY stranded wires (also known as vehicle wiring).

But what do you use to properly repair the wiring harness of a tailgate or door? Does the insulation need to be thin (FLRY) or fine-stranded to be flexible?

Best regards,

blackblizzard wrote:

Hello, For automotive applications, there are, among other things, FLY and FLRY stranded wires (also known as vehicle wiring). But what do you use to properly repair the wiring harness of a tailgate or door? Does the insulation need to be thin (FLRY) or fine-stranded to be flexible? best regards

If it's not too expensive ---> replace it. Otherwise, use FLRY (vehicle wiring according to DIN 72551) .

I would generally replace cable trees.

Sure, no problem!

And what's the best way to wrap it? Often, there's a piece of fabric tape attached, but I'm not sure where to get it.


And how do you repair something like that in the engine compartment? It should be watertight. Should I use uninsulated connectors with heat shrink tubing, or connectors with "integrated" heat shrink tubing?

Best regards,

Quote:

And how do you repair something like that in the engine compartment? It should be watertight.

Despite all the naysayers, I'm doing it the old-fashioned way (soldering ) and using heat shrink tubing.
with something like that :

http://www.musikhaus-korn.de/de/tesa-4186-Zumbelband-19mm-schwarz-25m.html?pid=2&gclid=CKWg_9jnl74CFaoewwodP0gA8Q

Complaint rate --> = 0.
What others think is their problem – and I don't want to discuss it. My experience proves me right – this method has worked perfectly here for what feels like 50 years, whereas I've had to fix countless crimped connections that have failed. Even in places where there's no water.

Hi!

Yes, I actually do the same thing, and I've been doing it for 50 years.
I haven't had any problems with that either.

For electronically sensitive items, it can be advantageous to...
to use these quick-connect solder sleeves.
You can process it with a lighter, which is also quite useful.

The only exception is the wiring of lambda sensors; you shouldn't solder anything to it.

I recreated the rear hatch wiring harness myself, using parts I bought separately, and soldered it to the vehicle's existing wiring harness. There were no connectors or separation points; it was all manufactured as a single unit. The cable used by Suzuki was too thin and also too stiff. I used leftover wiring harnesses from scrapped cars, specifically from an Opel Astra-F.

I used the individual wires from my trunk lid, which were mostly broken except for two conductors, to pull through the new wires. I reused the connector plugs from the central locking motor and the rear wiper motor, and soldered them to my newly inserted cables. All solder joints were secured with heat-shrink tubing, and the cables were then wrapped with self-fusing electrical tape in areas where they were at risk. I was able to continue using the original cable routing, and everything could be pulled through with the help of a dishwasher detergent solution as a lubricant.

I hope that I survive this workload...

Hi,

I would also recommend using soldering and heat shrink tubing.
And of course, make sure to properly route and secure the cables.
so that only predefined movements are possible.

Fourteen years ago, I completely replaced the entire engine wiring harness on an AFN vehicle once.
cut and then reconnected.
I haven't experienced any downtime yet.

Greetings,
dieter

Whenever possible, I prefer to use highly flexible hoses for such repairs in a private setting.

For example, silicone-coated sensor cables or similar.

"These are significantly thicker, but still flexible. I solder the ends and cover them with heat-shrink tubing in the area that doesn't move. It's not comparable to the factory-made version, and it's not practical in tight spaces, but otherwise, it should last forever."

Greetings.
Guste.

Quote:

Otherwise, it probably lasts forever.

Even the factory-standard version, which is replaced in the middle of its lifespan, can be considered "eternal."

If something breaks on a Passat after 7 years, and I replace it with a brand new part, it will break again in the 14th year... but then it's not a problem anymore .

m;

I also solder and shrink-wrap things like that. However, in areas prone to moisture, I use heat-shrink tubing with an inner layer of hot glue. Regardless, the shrinking process will make the tubing very rigid, so it must be placed outside of any moving parts.

I've now tried out these combined shrink and crimp connectors.
Either the cable isn't making a good connection, or the heat shrink tubing is damaged.
(I have a really good crimping tool!)

Okay, I'm going to try using uninsulated butt connectors (which are hexagonally pressed) and then covering them with a 4:1 shrink tubing with adhesive.

While I'm very good at soldering, it can be problematic when the cable is already somewhat corroded.

Best regards,

Quote:

I can solder very well, however, there are problems when the cable is already somewhat corroded.

Then the crimping won't help either; it's just a matter of time before the ends dissolve or burn away.

...Soldering... I'm reluctant to do. I've experienced cases where soldered cables broke right behind the solder joint due to the stiffening effect of the solder and flux. This is especially true in areas where vibrations can occur. However, it can work in cable harnesses where other cables and materials like fabric tape or Coroplast provide support... it really depends on where the repair was made.

Best regards, Styrian.

If you have access to industrial electrical and electronic components: the scrap pieces from the loose ends of cables from proximity switches, etc., can be quite useful. For example, Festo uses Lapp cables, which are extremely durable.
I've used this method to permanently resolve dozens of difficult cases.