Fix Door Lock? Get Help Now!

Currently, I have a Renault Twingo 1 with seized door lock cylinders. Of course, the car has a remote-controlled central locking system, and that's probably why no one has bothered to maintain the locks on the driver's door and the tailgate. Curiously, while the lock on the passenger door was stiff, it could at least be moved.

What did I do? I sprayed everyone with WD40, and I've repeated this process every day since Friday. The cylinder on the passenger door could be left as it is; it's just a bit stiff. It feels something like a poorly made key that doesn't quite fit. The remaining two locks don't move at all.

Does anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve buying two new locks?

Quote:

Does anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve buying two new locks?

Patience and even more WD40 . Keep in mind that WD40 washes the grease out of the cylinders.
Make sure to re-lubricate it, otherwise the cylinder will freeze up soon.

It's very important that you use lock cylinder oil when you re-lubricate it. Regular grease or similar products will cause everything to stick together again quite quickly!

To solve these issues, I always use brake cleaner, penetrating oil, and compressed air. The compressed air helps to slightly move the pins inside the cylinder, and the penetrating oil helps it to get in better. I use the brake cleaner to try and remove old, hardened grease. So far, I've had good results with this method.

Regarding brake cleaner, the two affected door lock cylinders just laughed. Nothing happened. I am aware that WD40 does more than just lubricate. So far, I have always used fine mechanical oil for delicate parts. Apart from the fact that this stuff attracts dust and dirt like a magnet, it has generally kept its (manufacturer's) promise. The automatic antenna of my current wife's car, which was previously not working properly, could be coaxed back into fully retracting the telescope with this oil and also a lot of patience.

It seems the problem lies in the lock itself within the driver's door, rather than in the mechanics behind it. Otherwise, there would have been at least some noticeable play in the lock. However, it doesn't move even a millimeter. So far, I had hoped to avoid having to remove it. Apparently (I've done some research!), it's not even that bad on the driver's door. The lock is housed in the metal of the driver's door and is not (as with most other vehicles) part of the so-called "door handle." It should be removable like a mailbox lock. The central locking mechanism behind it needs to be carefully detached. Carefully, because everything is made of plastic. Anyone who uses excessive force will have to buy new central locking components.

The tailgate lock should be a bit more complicated. For clarification: This is the so-called "Phase 3" of the Twingo 1 and has a locking cylinder integrated into the Renault rhombus that serves as the tailgate handle. The previous models have a simple push button there instead of a lock. A simpler solution would have been sufficient and would have required less work.

Within my circle of friends, I received the recommendation to remove the driver's side door lock and heat it in the oven at the lowest setting. This is supposed to remove any dirt, and then everything can be cleaned out with WD-40. Of course, you should then lubricate it after it cools down. There were no suggestions for the tailgate lock.

Hutfahrer wrote:

Does anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve buying two new locks?

Yes: Just leave it like that!

Since you have a Fireblade, this comment is definitely meant seriously. While I wouldn't completely forgo the option of manually opening the doors, you already have that on the passenger side. And that would be enough for me in case of an emergency (if the Fireblade battery is dead). I wouldn't bother with any cleaning work, nor would I spend money on new locks for that.

Greetings.
Guste.

I'll probably do the same thing with the tailgate; I'm probably not patient enough to deal with the fiddly work. Ultimately, I would check to see if it's possible to swap the lock from the passenger side to the driver's side. From that door, the entire central locking system would then work with the key. But if I could get it working again, it would definitely be worth the effort.

Okay, here's the translation:

"The door panel (plastic trim) came off relatively easily. A few screws, and the rest is held in place with clips on the door. Underneath is a foamed door film, which is somewhat thicker. The rubber-like adhesive could be loosened with heat. I used a heat gun, but from a distance to warm a larger area. I wasn't sure how the foam film would react. Apart from a few creases and wrinkles, it didn't suffer any damage. As suspected, the lock cylinder itself is secured with a spring washer, but it is not open at the back."

Heated in the oven on the lowest setting, rinsed with brake cleaner, and set aside to dry. It actually works again, but it expelled a lot of gray debris. The cylinder housing appears to be made of gray cast iron, and the sealing plates seem (visually) to be made of brass.

I dried the item in the oven using the residual heat after washing it. It should now be properly dried. I was recommended to use silicone grease for preservation. This is suitable for my main application (a fully automatic coffee machine), and I would use it for that purpose.