Stoßdämpfer und Querlenker Passat 3BG | Posts 16+

Herbert wrote:

Definitely, no impact wrench should be used there. On older models, the damper nut is tightened with, for example, a VW 3078 or a homemade tool, and held in place from inside through the window using an Allen key. On newer models, VW uses a special ratchet (open-top) for the nut. Wrong nut used??

Hello Herbert,

The nut was on the shock absorber (TRW brand). It still has the plastic insert for self-locking, as always. Therefore, you need a good amount of force to screw the nut on when the thread reaches the self-locking area.

"With me, 50 Nm wasn't enough to properly tighten the nut. On older Passats, the Allen key used to hold it in place was a size 7. Now it's only a size 5. And trying to counteract more than 50 Nm with a size 5 Allen key? I don't know if that's a good idea (because the damper rod itself hardly experiences any force – it rotates easily)."

Rüdi wrote:

And I didn't have any problems except for the lower ball joint, but even that one eventually gave way with the help of heat, cold, a pneumatic chisel, and a lot of rust remover, stretching its flanges in the process. I've never had the luxury of being able to do this on a stage before, using only jack stands and mostly without anyone helping me, but in the end, all the cars were driven away again. Perhaps it's because I've been working on cars myself for over 30 years, I have a sufficient supply of high-quality tools (and if something is missing, it's immediately purchased), and luckily, I've always had enough patience to avoid getting frustrated and causing problems when dealing with larger issues.

Hello Ruedi,

Then please don't let me die stupidly :

I generally buy my tools from either Hazet or Gedore. How did you manage to remove the lower rear control arm from the hub? My Hazet 1790-7 press didn't fit properly, even though it successfully removed the lower front control arms last year without any problems.

How do you tighten the lower rear control arm bolt on the stub axle when you can't use an Allen key to hold it in place, like with the front ones? Without an impact wrench or a press that forces the joint into the stub axle, I think it's impossible to do this in your own garage. The same applies if you repeatedly remove and reinstall the lower rear control arm after a few kilometers. In my case, the Allen key used for holding it in place was loose from the start. Then you can't even get the old one back in (which happened to me last year).

How do you lower the main support beam in the garage (using what kind of support) to access and remove the screws on the bottom rear handlebar mount?

I have one more question about the faulty ABS sensor. I just checked the cable, and it seems to be perfectly fine. The wheel hub was connected to the front linkage all along, and when the top part was removed, I supported it from below. Even if the cable is clipped in, I don't think it can break unless the hub is excessively lowered or twisted.

My guess is that the sensor itself might have been damaged by the hammering on the axle housing (to remove the lower, front control arm). If I remember correctly, the sensor tends to corrode and get stuck in the axle housing. Should I try to remove it myself, or should I consult a workshop instead?

Steffen W wrote:

If you had said something earlier. "For this model, Monroe offers front shock absorbers with pre-assembled springs, strut mounts, and dust boots, available under part numbers 5550020 and 5550021 in the parts trade. This eliminates the need for separate spring compression. However, these are only suitable for use with a "standard suspension" setup." "Whoever finds that appealing, it saves them work."

Hello Steffen,

oh, that would have been an extremely elegant solution. However, I already looked into this option a few weeks ago. But a parts dealer told me that the complete shock absorbers are only available for the 3B and not for the 3BG . For example, Amazon lists the Monroe 5550020, but it also displays a message saying that it is not suitable for my model.

Does Monroe offer this for other models as well (e.g., Audi A2, Passat CC)?

Quote:

For me, 50 Nm was not enough torque to properly tighten the nut.

I don't understand the statement. Are you saying that more than 50 Nm of torque was required to turn the nut with the locking ring?
hg
Herbert.

haehnlein wrote:

I still have a question about the defective ABS sensor. I just looked at the cable, and

it seems to be perfectly fine.

ABS sensors often fail without warning, and I've experienced this with various vehicles. It's frequently enough that the wiring harness gets bent or positioned in an unusual way.

Since these things are very cheap, I wouldn't worry about it and would just get a new one, along with a new clamping sleeve.

Herbert wrote:

I don't understand the statement. Do you mean that more than 50 Nm of torque was needed to turn the nut with the retaining ring?

Hello Herbert,

That's exactly what I meant. I'm a bit suspicious about applying such a high torque with a size 5 Allen key to the damper rod.

Fortunately, there's a happy ending now. The car is running again. However, the workshop had huge problems removing the tie rod ends. The threads were so heavily rusted to the tie rods that it took multiple applications of a blowtorch and brute force to prevent the replacement of all the tie rods. In the process, both boots were damaged and had to be replaced as well. So, there's not only the "evil screw," but also the "evil tie rod thread."

The wheel alignment is now performed using 3D technology without the need for any attached equipment. The workshop, along with three other workshops, jointly purchased the necessary €40,000 system. The alignment costs approximately €130.

Looking back, I can only recommend buying a complete shock absorber assembly (if it's available for the 3BG model) or the individual components and assembling them carefully in the basement beforehand using a STURDY spring compressor.

By the way, the original control arms are from TRW and lasted 310,000 km on my car.

It's simply illogical that in a self-locking nut designed for a tightening torque of 50 Nm, the locking force provided by the plastic ring should be greater than 50 Nm. Something was done incorrectly here. Is a standard thread being used with a fine thread?
You should tighten the thread slowly to prevent more from accumulating.
hg
Herbert.