Vorglühwendel blinkt - Fragen zu Fehlerspeichereintrag | Posts 32+

Wiesel wrote:

Rüdis approach won't work here. Der AFN hatte eine MSA15 mit einem Sensor mit bedrahteten Anschlüssen. The... The EDC17 has a relatively small surface-mount sensor that is almost completely flush with the circuit board. Opening an EDC17 module is not fun because it's glued to the edges with a large area of thermal conductive silicone. Things tend to break off easily, and the control unit is junk.

Since I found relatively inexpensive EDC17U1 units on ebay.co.uk, I'm actually considering trying to replace the sensor myself!
Do I need fresh thermal paste for the assembly? And can you recommend a product?

Thank you very much!

Hi,

I would apply a thin layer of thermal paste, the type used in computers, to the relevant areas.
Attention: Sanitary silicone from hardware stores usually contains acid, and that's the end of it. I wouldn't mess around with silicone.

When you look at the pictures showing where the parts are glued together, you can see where heating the casing might make it easier to open. Usually, two wide putty knives or trowels work well for prying them apart, as they allow you to get a large surface area into the gap between the casing and the lid and lever it open. However, I don't know how this looks with the EDC17U1; there's a high probability that it's the same way.

Do not work with brute force and do not get frustrated if something doesn't happen immediately.

Best regards, Rainer.

To open it, heat is helpful. Slow and even heating is better than localized heating (e.g., with a hot air gun). So, warm it in the oven at the lowest setting (not for too long!), and then try to open it carefully using heat-resistant gloves.

Electronic components installed in the engine compartment are certified for temperatures of 125 degrees Celsius. It is possible that this high temperature may not be ideal for every component with respect to its lifespan, but this may sometimes be accepted. Some suppliers only guarantee 3000 operating hours in such hot environments.

To seal the housing halves, glass glue or aquarium adhesive are suitable options. Both are acid-free, remain flexible both when cold and hot, and at least the glass glue must also be able to withstand the expected temperatures. A string placed in the adhesive seam makes it easier to reopen the casing, as it cuts through approximately half of the adhesive layer when pulling it apart. However, the string must not extend into the interior of the housing under any circumstances, so that it does not transport moisture.

dieselschrauber wrote:

Hi, I would apply a thin layer of thermal paste, specifically the type used in computers, to the relevant areas. Attention: Sanitary silicone from hardware stores usually contains acid, and that's the end of it. I wouldn't mess around with silicone. When you look at the pictures showing where the parts are glued together, you can see where heating the casing might make it easier to open. Usually, two wide putty knives or trowels work well for prying them apart, as they allow you to get a large surface area into the gap between the casing and the lid and lever it open. However, I don't know how this looks with the EDC17U1; there's a high probability that it's the same way. Do not work with brute force and do not get frustrated if something doesn't happen immediately. Best regards, Rainer

Hi!

Thank you for the tips!
I had already seen the spatulas in action in a YouTube video!

Hutfahrer wrote:

Heat can be helpful for opening it. Slow and even heating is better than localized heating (e.g., with a heat gun). So, warm it in the oven at the lowest setting (not for too long!) and then try to open it carefully, using heat-resistant gloves. Electronic components installed in the engine compartment are certified for temperatures of 125 degrees Celsius. It is possible that this high temperature may not be ideal for every component with respect to its lifespan, but this may sometimes be accepted. Some suppliers only guarantee 3000 operating hours in such hot environments. To seal the housing halves, glass glue or aquarium adhesive are suitable options. Both are acid-free, remain flexible both when cold and hot, and at least the glass glue must also be able to withstand the expected temperatures. A string placed in the adhesive seam makes it easier to reopen the enclosure, as it cuts through approximately half of the adhesive layer when pulling it apart. However, the string must not extend into the interior of the housing under any circumstances, so that it does not transport moisture.

Thank you very much for the tips! They are very valuable!

I waited a bit because I wanted to see if what I observed was actually true.

First of all:
Both of the error messages mentioned at the beginning are now gone! And they have been gone for about 1500 km. The disappearance of the symptoms coincides with the day I replaced the serpentine belt, which had started to slip off the alternator shaft due to a faulty tensioner pulley.

Can anyone explain this?

I wouldn't get too excited about that just yet...