Wie wird beim 1.9 TDI Pumpe-Düse die Nockenwelle geschmiert? | Posts 16+

Hi,
The video is now completely gone. Regardless, where does the oil for the swingarm pivot shafts come from? Shouldn't it also come from the bearing housings? I didn't see anything.
It seems either the oil supply to the ZK (likely referring to a specific component) is blocked, or the oil pressure readings are inaccurate.
hg
Herbert.

The new camshaft bearings arrived yesterday. I'll install them as soon as I have some time, and then I'll check the oil pressure again with the engine warm. What just occurred to me is the following.

I have a lifter that compresses differently than the others, and it also makes a ticking sound occasionally. I think it's either due to a lack of lubrication or simply a faulty hydro.

But if the hydraulic lifter is defective, for example, if it leaks oil, then, conversely, my oil pressure will drop somewhere. Additionally, the hydraulic lifters are supplied with oil before the camshaft. Consequently, the lack of lubrication initially manifests itself on the camshaft itself, right?

Or am I completely wrong in my assumption?

Regarding Herbert's comment: The oil for the rocker arm shaft comes out from the top of the bearing housings. "Two exploratory wells have been drilled, and oil has been found in all four."

Hi,
more likely to be on the wrong track. If the relevant plunger guide in the gearbox is not completely worn out, the oil pressure will not be lost along that path.
You have an oil pressure problem, at least in the cylinder head. It's also possible that your measurement method is incorrect. You'll probably also discard the new bearing shells and the new camshaft.
hg
Herbert.

Okay, my problem has now been resolved. After assembly with new camshaft bearings and 4 old and 4 very old (original) hydraulic lifters, the car runs again without ticking and with sufficient oil reaching the camshafts.

I can't say exactly what caused it now.

Engine oil pressure, when warm (oil temperature 87 degrees Celsius), is slightly above 1 bar at the cylinder head, at idle. At 2000 RPM, it is slightly above 2 bar.

According to Gutmann, it should have a pressure of 2 bar at the oil filter housing when running at 2000 RPM and a warm temperature (80 degrees Celsius).

Hello,

Let's hope the new components last.
Is the oil pump's suction port clear?

Otherwise, the oil supply will be inadequate at high engine speeds.

Sure, here's the translation:

"LG" translates to "Best regards" or "Sincerely" in English.

Visually, nothing appeared to be missing with the strainer below. Also, the sealing ring for the intake manifold was not damaged. So, everything seems to be fine so far. Currently, it's still losing a little oil. Based on what I can see from the valve cover right now.
I need to check that again sometime soon. But otherwise, everything seems to be fine for the time being.

However, if the problem occurs again, I will likely resort to using a replacement engine, as I don't want to install new parts in an engine that occasionally has oil supply problems. Wherever the problem originates/originated.

But I'm very happy to be able to drive my TDI again. My BMW actually uses quite a bit of fuel for everyday use.

I wanted to give you a quick update and also describe a new problem.

The car has been running continuously again for about a month now. For a while, there was also a significant oil leak from a faulty valve cover, and a very loud wheel bearing, but it wasn't as bad as it seemed, and everything has already been fixed.

About a week after I replaced the valve stem seals and hydraulic lifters with used ones, I noticed that the engine would occasionally make different knocking sounds or have varying levels of noise at idle. If you listen closely, you can hear this knocking sound coming from the intake manifold, and it becomes much louder when you remove the hose.

These are typical signs of a broken-in camshaft/lifters, as the valves are no longer opening properly.

Based on the intermittent nature of the problem, I believe the defect is likely due to either an issue with the oil supply to the hydraulic cylinders or with the hydraulic cylinders themselves. That's why I decided to permanently install an oil pressure gauge on top of the cylinder head.

I've been driving with the pressure gauges glued to the dashboard for the past 2 days.

However, it doesn't show any strikingly bad values. Even when knocking occurs, the oil pressure at the cylinder head is 1 bar at idle with a warm engine. The only thing noticeable is that the pressure fluctuates slightly.

I'm considering having the camshaft removed again during the next timing belt change (which is due in about 10,000 km) and replacing all 8 hydraulic lifters with new ones.

If there is sufficient oil pressure for a sustained period, then normally enough oil should also be continuously supplied to the cylinder head, and thus to the camshaft and the hydraulic lifters.

Alternatively, I might consider switching from a 5w30 to a 5w40 oil during the next oil change. Due to the issues I'm having with my camshafts, I've reduced my already short oil change interval from 15,000 km to 10,000 km.

I'm starting to feel a bit lost about this. I'm now also assuming that my original problem with the camshaft leaking oil isn't permanently fixed, but that it just happened to be dry when I checked again. I haven't checked the camshaft lubrication for about a month now.

However, the ticking sound that was coming from the faulty hydraulic lifter on cylinder 1, which I replaced, has been gone since the replacement and has not reappeared.

Is there any explanation for insufficient lubrication of the camshaft/lifters, even when there is a constant oil pressure of at least 1 bar at the cylinder head?

Definitely, a huge thank you to everyone who is trying to help here. This forum is very knowledgeable. To be completely honest.