Polo 1,4 TDI - Notlauf nach Problem mit Ladedruckregelung | Posts 16+

Quote:

..When it comes to changing the coolant, you can drive for a few days with "plain water" during the warm or frost-free season....

Then it will turn rusty brown. Experienced firsthand.
hg
Herbert.

[Translating...]

.:.

Already after just a few days?

Demineralized water doesn't really have any "life" in it; it's just not completely sterile.

I've never had that experience with French, Japanese, or Hungarian people.

Probably. Baguettes, sushi, and bell peppers don't rust. That's exactly what happened.
hg
Herbert.

Okay, then I prefer their choice of materials.

I wish you a lovely Sunday!

I'm still in the process of reassembling the vehicle!
But it will.

I asked my local car dealership again about the topic of "flushing the cooling system."
Here is the information about that:

"I did some research and couldn't find anything about flushing the cooling system." My colleague from the technical department also believes that it is not strictly necessary.
Bleeding the cooling system is a somewhat more involved process. "This is done according to the instructions of the VAS tester."

I'm a bit confused. It seems that filling the cooling system alone only works with a vacuum pump. I'm really unsure about what to do: Should I just top up the cooling system via the expansion tank and have the rest done by VW?

Perhaps someone with experience can share their insights.
Thank you all!

Hello everyone,

I'd like to briefly revisit the topic of "bleeding the cooling system":
Can VCDS provide support regarding this matter?

Hello,
VCDS cannot assist you during the filling process, but it can help with bleeding the system. There's a specific program that runs for that.

The vacuum filling process didn't work properly on our CSUB either, because the vacuum wasn't being maintained. Something was leaking. However, the pressure kept the system stable.

I filled it as best I could with a slight vacuum, pressed on the hoses a bit, jiggled the engine a little, and let the system sit overnight. Then I topped up the coolant.

If you don't have the filling device and compressor, you can borrow them. I would fill it through the expansion tank and let it sit overnight. It was approximately 5 liters that went in.

Start the engine and then run the bleeding program in VCDS when it reaches approximately 60°C.


"Our loader broke down at 172,000 kilometers. Just like yours, the shaft of the compressor wheel was resting on the flap of the AGR cooler." So, almost the same mileage.

Turbo has now been driven for 1300 km, and the engine will have an oil change tomorrow.

Hi Malo,

Thank you very much for your helpful feedback!
I'll try it out as you described. In an emergency, I can still rely on my friend – I've already asked him in advance and let him know that I might come by to bleed the brakes.

It's funny that you had almost the same problem!
You're changing the oil after replacing the turbocharger after relatively few kilometers. According to the turbocharger supplier, it's sufficient to do so after 10,000 km. Is there a specific reason why you're doing it sooner? It's not really a problem, is it? I was just being careful, or something?

Hello stolley,

Several automotive mechanics have independently advised me to change the oil after 1000-1500 km (approximately 600-900 miles) after installation.

"It's funny that you had almost the same problem!"
There are some cases of this CSUB motor and similar runtimes. Axial pressure and the resulting axial clearance, which presses the impeller against the compressor housing, are not uncommon.

I had the particulate filter removed from my Audi to be cleaned, and the result was that it was completely full, weighing 90 grams! This is above the limit of 80 grams. The value recorded in the engine control unit was 43 grams. I think he also contributed to that.

Have you checked the particulate filters?