Pumpe zum Ölabsaugen? | Posts 16+

Sure...running a motor without oil...
Was ist da nicht noch einmal passiert, bei dem die Turboshaft sich selbstständig durch den Öldruck in den Lagern zentriert? Und wie soll ich meinen PD-Elementen bzw. der Nockenwelle den fehlenden, tragenden Ölfilm erklären? Oder den anderen Lagern? Selbst wenn es nur für Sekunden ist.
Furthermore, after refilling with new oil, there are additional "unlubricated" seconds because the lines to the turbo and other components need to be filled with oil again... they're completely full of air.
So, I have a thousand ideas on how to break the engine in the shortest amount of time. But I would never have thought of that. Congratulations!
And I also think your flushing product is complete nonsense! Even if the sludge and dirt dissolve and you allow everything to drain thoroughly, you'll still have a very significant amount of diesel entering the new engine oil when you refill. Not to mention the potentially remaining, dissolved oil sludge...

But maybe I'm completely wrong. I, for one, would never do that to my little one.

Best regards,
pretzel

Steve wrote:

Hello everyone... Here are two more "unconventional" tips: 1. Filter replacement without the mess... Run the engine without oil for 3-5 seconds. Do not run it longer than that. It's not a problem due to the existing lubricating film... Filter is empty... 2. Remove oil sludge... Fill with the specified amount of diesel. (those who cannot tolerate this admittedly unusual sound, I can also mix 50/50 oil and diesel. Let it sit for a short time (30-60 seconds), then start the engine. Only idle. 1-3 minutes. The engine is clean, but it cost a lot of money for the cleaner, and it's being eaten away by it. Seals saved. If the seals are already showing signs of leakage, you should avoid using the cleaning agent. My second-to-last rinse cycle mercilessly pointed out all the leaks . Good night...Steve

Well, in the case of a tractor that's completely covered in grime and where the oil has never been changed, it might be a good idea to do a complete engine flush once during its lifespan.
For a regular oil change, that's definitely overkill and will likely cause more harm than good. I agree with the previous speaker.

Best regards, Rainer.

'Especially with older engines, after a 'flushing' process, they often start making terrible rattling noises, suddenly consume a lot of oil, and then fail completely after a short time...'

removed the deposits from the bearings.

CU Gremlin.

Hello everyone...

1. I certainly wouldn't recommend using a conditioner regularly...
This was intended as a suggestion for those who are expensive and kill creativity.
Want to save on dishwasher additives.

2. The lubrication remains effective because the oil initially circulates from the filter.
And even the lubricating film doesn't break down within those few seconds...
Approximately 2 years ago, a well-known manufacturer highlighted the excellent lubricating properties of its oil.
wants to demonstrate and is on a closed track that is just under 150 km long.
Driven without oil (at a constant speed of 100 km/h).

@ Brezelmann
Beim PD Filter leer machen ? What for?
Cartridge out...
Insert cartridge...

Best regards, Steve.

@steve
You are absolutely right, the filter emptying process is different with PD models! When I was writing that text, I was thinking about the old screw-type filters .
The diesel wash problem affects both machines, but it's particularly pronounced in the PD engine due to the high pressures in the cylinder head. And when I flush the engine with diesel, the filter (or housing) is, of course, also flooded.

Take care.

Hello...

You are right about that...

I hadn't even thought about the catalytic converters (they can sometimes fail due to incorrect oil...).
I would only use cleaning agents that have been approved by the manufacturer for this purpose.

Best regards, Steve.

Hello...

You are right about that...

I hadn't even thought about the catalytic converters (they can sometimes fail due to incorrect oil...).
I would only use cleaning agents that have been approved by the manufacturer for this purpose.

Best regards, Steve

Hi,

So, if an engine needs a flush, it means something has been going wrong for quite some time.
Regarding the diesel flush, I've also had that idea before, but only by adding diesel and then draining it after some time, without running the engine.
But what's the point of all this? It only makes sense if you intend to drive the car until it's completely beyond economic repair, without ever fixing any accidents.
I'd rather leave the hassle to others and buy a new (or used) car beforehand (in good time). After all, hardly anyone drives a G1D anymore, even though many of them would probably still be running today.

Greetings.

Eike.

Without getting involved in the "Does sucking damage in the long run?" debate.
I've had the Proxxon pump for a few years now, and I just wanted to mention that it does its job and has shown no problems whatsoever so far.

Regards,

Olaf.

Ideally, a hatch in the lower engine cover would be perfect. Unfortunately, this probably won't help much with the Golf IV ALH, as the drain plug is located towards the rear, meaning you'd have to be directly underneath the car, which is likely very difficult without a lift or a pit. Furthermore, the oil initially shoots out of the opening almost horizontally (the rental workshop is still happy about the stain ), and then it drips vertically at the end, so you'd have to install a very large hatch.

If you have access to a lift, a pit, or a reasonably priced workshop, I would always go there for an oil change. That way, you can also take a look under the car and inspect the engine compartment from below.
The tip to loosen the filter first is invaluable - otherwise, I think the position of the oil filter on the ALH engine is great. The level of serviceability from VW is actually quite remarkable, and it must be a coincidence.

I would never pour diesel into the oil system. I don't want to know how many cold starts at -20 degrees Celsius this method would equate to. Moreover, you would essentially have to discard the new oil immediately, as it would be "diluted" by the significant amount of diesel residue. If you want to clean your engine, you should opt for more frequent oil changes, for example, every 5-10,000 kilometers. Synthetic oil is also supposed to have a cleaning effect.

I'm not a big fan of oil extraction. When you see what comes out at the end, it's quite a thick sludge that won't be extracted. The particles then fall back in, and over about 5 oil changes, a mixture of abrasive particles accumulates, which causes engine wear.
It might be worthwhile, especially with typical annual mileage between 15,000 and 30,000 km. You need to do two oil changes per year, but one of them is part of the inspection, which includes a lift. The extra oil change can then be done by simply siphoning the old oil.

Regarding oil sludge and dirt in the oil pan,

Since I started using full synthetic oil exclusively, I haven't had any sludge or dirt buildup in any of my vehicles.

The oil also has the job of keeping the dirt suspended and carrying it to the oil filter. As long as this transport system is working, there is no dirt in the engine. If the oil breaks down, things can quickly go wrong. (An example will follow soon.)

I also have no objections to draining the oil. A small amount of oil, about the volume of a shot glass, might remain in the oil pan, and half a liter will remain in the engine, which you wouldn't be able to remove anyway without flushing it.

Flushing a diesel engine with gasoline is the dumbest thing I've ever heard. Just because it doesn't immediately cause damage doesn't mean that the connecting rod bearings and cylinders can tolerate it.
Aside from the fact that even a small amount of diesel contamination (a few percent) usually necessitates an oil change, the fresh oil will then contain about 15% diesel due to the residual amount left in the engine. Even if you then flush the engine with fresh oil, there will still be around 3% diesel remaining, which is well above the specified limit.

You can actually drive for a very long time, even with just water as a lubricant, before it completely fails. (I know of a case where a gasoline engine went almost 100 kilometers on water.)

During the Russian campaign, gasoline was added to the motor oil in order to get the tank and aircraft engines to run, even at low temperatures.
The fact that the lifespan of a DB 601 engine (used in the Me 109) decreased to less than 50 hours was irrelevant, given that the pilot and the aircraft typically had a survival rate of only about 6 flight hours.

Gremlin wrote:

Besides the arguments regarding the sludge problem, he showed me the carbonized remains of such a pump. It lasted exactly 1.5 engine lengths.

hardware store quality...
Hi Ralf,

My hardware store pump has already survived 66% of its specified lifespan, which is equivalent to 1 ALH oil fill-up.

However, the instructions contain nonsense in this regard, stating that the suction hose should be inserted into the pipe as far as the dipstick is long (using a marking ring).
With that, approximately 1 or 2 cm of oil would have remained in the pan, because that's where the dipstick ends.

Furthermore, the hot oil had softened the hoses to such an extent that a thicker section of the hose on the suction side (the transition from the thin probe hose to the thicker pump connector) had collapsed inwards, causing the pump to operate "partially in idle."
I fixed it by using a piece of tubing I found in my toolbox.
But this error, in turn, documents the "high performance" of the pump - on the other hand, it also reveals a design that was apparently not thought through down to the last detail... }

Otherwise, everything went quite well, and it also pumped out the usual amount of oil, without making any noises that would suggest an imminent failure. And it didn't smell burnt (yet).

One of the upcoming weekends, it's my turn to hear from my AFN. Let's see what she has to say...