Oil Extraction Pump: Buy Now!

Hello,

Changing the oil isn't really a big deal, but for my wife's ALH Ibiza, I always have to put it on ramps, then remove the lower engine bay cover, and only then is the drain plug accessible.

(My G3 is easier to maintain: simply lifting it slightly with a jack is enough to slide the container underneath and loosen the drain plug.)

As far as I know, TDIs can have their oil extracted during oil changes, so I would like to buy a suitable pump for that purpose.

Can someone share some information about providers/sources, prices, and practical suitability?

Thank you.

'If I remember correctly, Conrad sells something like that. I've also seen it in local hardware stores. I'm also considering buying something like that myself, so I don't have to take the trim off every time and I don't always look like an oil rig worker!'

Hi Ulf,

To my knowledge, a hydraulic flush of the oil pan by suction through the dipstick tube (your plan ) is not sufficient -> the consequence is that oil sludge remains inside . However, there are extended drain plugs for cars with a cover -> you make a hole and it's good .

haehnlein wrote:

To my knowledge, hydraulically flushing the oil pan by suction through the dipstick tube (your plan ) is not sufficient->as a result, oil sludge remains inside . However, there are extended drain plugs for cars with a cover->you drill a hole and it's good

.
Hi Christian,

I am aware of the issue of oil sludge.
Therefore, I generally only change the oil when the engine is warm, so that hopefully all the old oil has been circulated properly.

Then, when draining the oil, the last bit that comes out is not noticeably thicker (which suggests that the sludge is actually coming out last) compared to the oil that came out before it, even if you leave the drain plug open for half an hour.

Therefore, I believe that when you drain the heated oil, you ultimately also remove the sludge.
But believing doesn't mean knowing... if anyone knows more, please contact us .

ulf wrote:

But believing doesn't mean knowing... if anyone knows more, please contact us

.

Hi Ulf,

I've noticed during oil pan gasket replacement procedures that there's still sludge at the bottom of the oil pan, even though I generally warm up the engine beforehand (and drain the oil through the drain plug). If the "flushing effect" is even smaller, I'm convinced that even more dirt remains inside .

haehnlein wrote:

I've noticed during oil pan gasket replacement procedures that there is still sludge at the bottom of the oil pan, even though I generally warm up the engine beforehand (I drain the oil beforehand using a screw). If the "flushing effect" is even smaller, I am convinced that even more dirt remains inside

.
Hi Christian,

That's interesting!
Approximately how thick were the layers of sludge?
Did you always drain the oil , or did you just suck it out, and only open the drain plug for the seal replacement?

Hi Ulf,

I generally drained the oil through the screw and followed the recommended intervals. The sludge layer (or rather, the deposit layer) was approximately 1-3 millimeters thick and was thicker in areas where the flow rate during draining through the screw was low, i.e., further away from the hole. However, I must also mention that I have replaced the oil pan gasket on a Golf II diesel and a Passat (1985) TD. Perhaps the oil pans of the TDIs are better designed in terms of fluid dynamics .

Hello,

What's actually stopping someone from cutting a hole, approximately 10x10 cm in size, into the bathtub, so that one can...?
'Do you need to remove the tub to access the screw? Or maybe you could install a flap using the cutout piece (10x10) and a small piece of aluminum that's riveted in place? I've been thinking about doing something like that before.'

Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Cu H-P'

H-P wrote:

What exactly is the problem with cutting a hole, approximately 10x10cm in size, into the bathtub, so that one can properly, without having to... Can you remove the tub, and get to the screw?

The effort, and the fact that I'm not allowed to use my partner's car as a hobby project... it took quite some time to convince her of the advantages of an LDA .

I'll probably try using a suction pump for the next oil changes.

Let's see what happens (and, more importantly: how much - if, for example, 1 liter of old oil remains in the engine instead of being drained, I'll go back to using the 19 size...).

I once asked my master mechanic.

Besides the arguments regarding the sludge problem, he showed me the coked remains of such a pump. It lasted exactly 1.5 engine lengths .
DIY store quality...

CU Gremlin.

Hi,
I'm not lowering the car just for show, but for other reasons. As annoying as it is to remove the cover, it's the only opportunity to take a look at the engine compartment from below. That's never done any harm, especially when the car is getting older.

Hi,

Just a quick question, by the way.
I always replace the filter at the same time, and it can be accessed without removing the cover (or the...).
Cooler ) to remove, never ever get it out.

I had considered that too, but since you get so bogged down in the filter settings, it doesn't really matter.

A mechanic once gave me the tip to let new oil circulate with the oil drain plug open. He said it would also help remove some residue. I haven't actually done that before, though.
I can't really say anything specific about that.

Greetings.
Thomas.

Thomas wrote:

I always replace the filter at the same time, and you can get it without removing the cover (or the Remove the cooler ), never take it out.

Hi Thomas,

I always get the unscrewed filter ejected upwards even without turning it, which only makes the mess with the leaking oil even worse.

Don't ask me whether I'm going to thread it to the right or left of the filter holder, but it definitely works on my car.

I always pour about three-quarters of a liter of fresh oil into the new filter before installing it. This significantly reduces the amount of time the engine runs "dry" after the next start.

Hi Ulf,

At your car's weight class, it's already a bit more spacious even without this "climate nonsense." I'd be happy to take a photo of the cramped space in my Golf. You should be glad if you can even get your hand down!

Quote:

By the way, I always pour in about 3/4 of a fill of fresh oil into the new filter before I install it. } This significantly reduces the amount of "dry" engine running time after the next start.

Yes, I do that too.

Greetings.
Thomas.

Hello,
Pre-filling the replaced filter with new oil is a good idea, but even more importantly, it's crucial to remove the filter before draining or siphoning the oil, because the mentioned 3/4 liter of old oil will gush out when the filter cartridge is pulled down (at least in the ALH engine), and then the discussion starts: "only 3.5 liters fit in mine." I once made the mistake of doing it the wrong way, out of habit, with the "hanging filter," and I don't want to know what goes wrong in various workshops. By the way, I don't see the oil sludge and sediment problem as a major issue; if the oil sludge apparently doesn't stir up or dissolve even under full load, it can't cause any damage, and it can stay there if it wants to. In the past, I also used to do more "flushing" (with special oil and whatnot), but I had more problems than people who knew nothing and just put their foot on the gas.

Greetings Andreas

Hello everyone...

Here are two more 'unconventional' tips:

1. Filter replacement without the mess...
Run the engine without oil for 3-5 seconds. Do not run it longer than that.
It's not a problem due to the existing lubricating film...
Filter is empty...

2. Remove oil sludge...
Fill with the specified amount of diesel.
(those who cannot tolerate this admittedly unusual sound,
I can also mix 50/50 oil and diesel.
Let it sit for a short time (30-60 seconds), then start the engine. Only idle.
1-3 minutes. The engine is clean, but it cost a lot of money for the cleaner, and it's being eaten away by it.
Seals saved.
If the seals are already showing signs of leakage, you should avoid using the cleaning agent.
My second-to-last rinse cycle mercilessly pointed out all the leaks .

Good night... Steve.