CV Joint Boot Replacement - Passat B5 PD

Hi,

Has anyone here ever replaced a cuff?

Do I need to completely remove the bearing, or can I get it out of the suspension arm without any problems like this?

I am grateful for any advice!

Regards,

Crissi.

Okay, I've already done this job on a similar car. You need to remove the upper control arms. Be careful, the bolt on the shock absorber is really tight. Then, I think there's also something to loosen at the bottom. This should allow you to swing the shock absorber. Hold the driveshaft against the transmission, and that will release the driveshaft from the wheel bearing housing. I then used a large Allen key to detach the joint from the driveshaft. Put on a new boot and reassemble in the reverse order. If you can get the screws on the control arms off and also release them from the clamping connection, the whole job should take about 2 hours.

Is this really necessary for the B5? It's usually easier to just unscrew the shaft from the transmission. I only loosen the shock absorber when the shaft can't be removed any other way.

I'm not exactly familiar with the B5 model. But technically, the suspension is the same as the 3BG. The 3BG only differs in terms of the bodywork. I once had an instruction manual from a VW service manual, and it described the procedure in that way.
Releasing the driveshaft from the transmission is also quite stressful.
If it weren't for that stupid clamping screw on the shock absorber for the upper control arm, it would actually be quite easy, just like on the 35i!

Hi,
If someone is sitting in a car and applies the brakes on command, it happens pretty quickly.
But if VW writes it like that, it's probably because the engine mounting bracket is in the way, which would make it impossible to remove the shaft anyway.

If I recall correctly, the space was quite limited. I also think that the lack of space prevents the joint wave from being folded away or makes it impossible to remove! If everything fits properly, loosening the control arms, etc., is also relatively easy. In my case, it was so rusted and the dirt had done its part. Ultimately, I had to heat the area with a torch, and with a lot of patience and a large hammer, I was finally able to loosen the screw so that I could detach the control arms from the shock absorber.

I had the cuffs replaced on a...
Passat, model year 1999, has been updated. It was more enjoyable to ride the waves.
auszubauen und am Schraubstock zu zerlegen. After.
I had loosened the two upper handlebars (using the long screw).
I was able to swivel the wheel suspensions to the point where...
To extract the gear from the wheel hub.

The whole thing took approximately one hour per page!

Hello colleague,
I did that last week. Both sides, both sleeves (since you're already there).

1. Car on wheels: Loosen the CV joint screws on the transmission, possibly roll the car forward and backward if you can't reach them. Loosen the large Allen screw on the outside, and loosen the wheel bolts.
2. Jack up the front of the car (the higher, the better). Remove the wheels. Remove the Allen screw completely. Disconnect the ABS line from its bracket and set it aside. Remove all the screws from the inner joint. Remove the 'long' screw (for the clamping of the upper control arms). In my case, this was only possible on one side, and only with careful heating with a heat gun (due to the rubber boots of the control arms nearby) and a large hammer; the other side had to be drilled out. Tap both control arms out of the wheel bearing carrier with light blows from below. Swing the wheel bearing carrier to the side and slide the shaft out of the splines and remove it.
Here's how I did it. A friend wanted to avoid drilling, so he removed the lower control arm located at the bottom of the wheel bearing carrier. According to him, the driveshaft can then be removed. If you only want to repair the outer joint, he says you don't need to disconnect the inner joint from the transmission. There's another option, which I only know from a discussion with a VW driver. You can completely remove the inner joint and slide a new boot for the outer joint over it from the inside out. This information doesn't come from me, and I haven't given much thought to whether it's even possible. However, the inner joint can be easily removed from the shaft after removing a cover plate (which is replaced by a rubber ring for sealing) and a retaining ring. As I said, I've never tried it this way! By the way, my repair manual also notes that the vehicle should not be moved with the axle shaft removed, due to the wheel bearings. Therefore, when reassembling, tighten the large Allen screw firmly by hand while the vehicle is still on jack stands, and then tighten it properly once the wheels are on. When the driveshaft is removed, it's probably a good idea to verschandeln the ABS sensor ring and the ABS sensor. This is more difficult to do when the driveshaft is installed. I had problems with the ABS signal after this repair, and I still need to fix it. Best regards, Stephan.