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Galaxy mit 277.000 km Tot... | Posts 16+

 
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mhernach
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Post21-01-2004, 14:18    Subject: Quote

Hello everyone...

Okay, I finally did it...

I bought a new head on eBay and, of course, installed it right away.

Now, let me tell you about my experience...

It's already quite difficult to swap heads on a Galaxy model due to space constraints.

After I disassembled everything, I encountered a surprise. My old engine head isn't actually defective or anything like that. The only thing I could see is a crack between the injector nozzle and the exhaust valve, and this is present in all 4 cylinders. The next thing is that the valve guides naturally have a bit more play than new ones, and the best part is that the intake channels were completely clogged with sludge.

Of course, I installed the new cylinder head, but I kept the old parts like the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, turbocharger, etc., and cleaned them. I spent 1.5 hours cleaning the intake manifold by myself.

Okay, after I had everything put back together, I tried to start the engine. After about 10 seconds, the engine started running.

Regarding the turbo... in my opinion, it's perfectly fine for this mileage. Just the way it should be.

Okay, I'm going to ask a question about cars, although I'm a mechanic, but it's been about 10 years since I worked on them.

Should you break in a new engine with a new cylinder head? I would say no.

2. What could happen if the turbocharger boost hoses are connected incorrectly (boost control valve)?

3. Is there a way to determine the exact injection point without using VAG-COM?



AND NOW, THINGS AREN'T GETTING ANY BETTER AT ALL COMPARED TO BEFORE... icon_sad.gif icon_sad.gif icon_sad.gif

I still have to wait for my new fuel injectors, but hopefully, once they're installed, the car will run normally again.

Best regards, Mike.


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:36.
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Marco
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Post21-01-2004, 14:45    Subject: Quote

Hello Mike,

Does the engine take 10 seconds to start every time, or only when starting it for the first time after a head replacement?

Here's the translation:

'The usual break-in period is largely unnecessary, but I would still recommend taking it slow because there are still many components in the engine that need time to properly integrate and function together (e.g., the cylinder head, hydraulic lifters, and valves).'

2. Faulty connections in the turbocharger boost hoses can manifest as a significant reduction in power and, potentially, limp mode.

3. I'm not aware of that, but maybe the pump experts have some other tricks up their sleeves.


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:39.
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joergs
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Post21-01-2004, 15:21    Subject: Quote

Okay, here's the translation:

'It can be adjusted statically using a measuring tool. I'll explain how later, along with the adjustment range.'


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:40.
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christians
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Post21-01-2004, 15:22    Subject: Quote

Hi,
A technical article describes how to adjust the injection timing using an analog multimeter.
Edit:
@Jörg: This hasn't proven to be very effective with Hähnlein: See the mega-thread...
If the engine is running reasonably well, I think that's enough.
Gruß Christian
A6 BPP, Ex-A6 AKN (Gurke), Ex-Audi100 92 AAT (5Zyl.)


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:40.
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Andy
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Post21-01-2004, 15:28    Subject: Quote

Hi,

zu3) This can be done statically using a measuring tool! I will write later how to do it, and also the adjustment value.
Just a reminder, at this point, to be very careful when referring to Haehnlein's extensive thread on cold starts...
He had also adjusted it several times using a timing light back then, with the result that his problem ultimately turned out to be related to the injection timing.

Edit: christians was faster icon_rolleyes.gif.

Best regards, Andy.


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:41.
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joergs
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Post21-01-2004, 15:51    Subject: Quote

@christians,andy

I know! Then let's just leave it, right?


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:42.
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Andy
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Post21-01-2004, 18:23    Subject: Quote

Hi,
Okay, here's my opinion on that:
If he continues to run like that, even with a timing device, the results won't significantly improve or move closer to what's considered 'good.'
Either the convenient method using VAG-COM, or the measurement with the good old analog method.

Best regards, Andy.


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:43.
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joergs
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Post21-01-2004, 18:29    Subject: Quote

Hi,
Okay, here's my opinion on that:
If he continues to run like that, even with a timing device, the results won't significantly improve or move closer to what's considered 'good.'
Either the convenient method using VAG-COM, or the measurement with the good old analog method.

Best regards, Andy

That's probably true. I also believe that if you're already replacing cylinder heads, etc., you should invest those few euros in an adapter to be able to use VAG-COM!


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:44.
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x world one
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Post21-01-2004, 21:26    Subject: Quote

Okay, here's something else about coolant loss. In my case, the coolant hose connecting the engine compartment to the interior was defective. However, the water only leaked out when the engine was warm and then it would leak significantly. When the car was stationary, the leak wasn't visible; nothing dripped out, but it leaked heavily during driving. But if coolant is leaking anywhere, you usually also see greenish-white water stains in the engine compartment. Where these [problems/symptoms] appear, there is usually also the leak.
VW Golf III TDI Avenue, MKB 1Z, EZ96
VW Passat 3B Variant Highline, MKB AEB, EZ98, LPG
Opel Vectra C SW First Edition, MKB Z19DTH, EZ05
Aktuell: Ford Ranger 3,2l, Automatik, MKB SAFA, EZ 2014
Spritmonitor


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:45.
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mhernach
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Post21-01-2004, 22:02    Subject: Quote

'I wouldn't have expected so many entries in such a short period of time.'

regarding VAG-Com... I do have that... but after a short circuit, I can't always access my engine control unit, it's like a game of chance.

Oh yes, I almost forgot, I'm still having the problem with the acceleration being 'wavy,' and I can't determine the fuel consumption until the next refueling. By the way, with the '10 cent tuning,' it runs really well in the lower RPM range... but as soon as I'm in 4th or 5th gear... It can reach speeds of around 170 km/h, but it takes a while to get there.

Coolant leak... still happening... I'm currently checking how much is leaking. I noticed that there are always a few drops on the lower coolant hose... at least after the thermostat replacement.

Best regards from Austria (Mike).

icon_biggrin.gif


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:46.
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mhernach
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Post23-01-2004, 23:02    Subject: Quote

Hello everyone...

The time has come...

I'm soooooo happy icon_biggrin.gif icon_biggrin.gif.

Today I received my fuel injectors for my 1Z.

built-in... and...

It's amazing... absolutely incredible... I don't even need to use my '10 cent tuning' anymore...

I ordered 4 new fuel injectors for my AFN from eBay for '€386,' and I'm thrilled... no hassle, just great.

Furthermore, my fuel consumption has decreased to approximately 7.5 liters per 100 kilometers (I filled up the tank today before I changed the fuel injectors).

The only thing I still need to do is fix that slightly annoying engine noise, which is probably coming from a rusted exhaust clamp (catalytic converter).

Oh yes, and that wave-like acceleration.

Best regards from Austria, Mikel.

PS: Be happy icon_biggrin.gif be happy icon_smile.gif be happy icon_biggrin.gif.


Translated on 05-07-2026, 15:48.
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