Galaxy with 277,000 km mileage, deceased.

Hello everyone, once again...

It's been a long time...

Okay, it's pretty much certain that my hard drive is broken now... which is really not good news for me.
A week ago, the low coolant warning light suddenly came on.

Approximately 1.2 liters of water were missing.
Today, after approximately 230 km, the same thing happened again. 1.5 liters...

I don't see any stains on the floor, so he must have burned it.
BUT now, to my question...


Is it possible to see absolutely no white smoke?

The engine has less power than before (or it might just be my imagination).
'The fuel consumption has increased over the last 10,000 km (9-10 liters).'

Oh, one more thing...
Is it worth fixing the machine? And if so, what should I do?

Mfg.: 10/96
Mileage: 277,000 km

Thank you for your efforts and responses.

Best regards, Mike.

Hi Mike,

Based on how you describe the coolant loss, I suspect your head gasket (Zylinderkopfdichtung) is faulty. You can check this by looking inside the coolant reservoir to see if there's an oily film on the surface. Then, disconnect the return hose of the reservoir and hold it directly over the container, and check if, with the engine running at high RPM, the water return is partially interrupted (air bubbles). Finally, look for a light brown, thick sludge around the oil filler cap. It's also possible that the coolant is escaping in a different way. If you only check it once a week, it's relatively clear that no stains would be visible. If the head gasket is only leaking under high pressure, such as during highway driving with a heavy load, you likely won't see any or very little white smoke. If it were my vehicle, I would definitely have the engine repaired. Based on the year, it could be a 1Z model (I'm unfortunately just guessing, as you haven't provided that information). If it is indeed a head gasket issue, I would replace the following parts at the same time, or at least have them thoroughly inspected: 1. Timing belt 2. Crankshaft pulley bolt 3. Seals. And don't delay the repair for too long to minimize the damage. If it's the head gasket, you risk minor water hammer events that could lead to cracks in the cylinder head or even complete engine failure.

It looks like 'zkd' to me too.

repair: yes! But considering the mileage, I would immediately install a new cylinder head (replacement head). Why? Because after that mileage, everything has some wear and tear. Things like valve guides, hydraulic lifters, etc. If you just replace the head gasket now, something else will likely fail soon, and you'll have to remove the head again. Normally, the timing belt would have been due for replacement at 270,000 km. Has it been changed?

If it's a ZKD issue, then it's not a major problem, and your car will be running again!

Yes, it's a 1z...

I've also been thinking about the ZKD system... but I don't quite understand why so much water is involved.

There is no oil layer in the expansion tank, and there are no air bubbles either.

I'm going to take the ZK (likely referring to a Zylinderkopf, or cylinder head) apart and take a look at it.


I'm not in the mood for that kind of thing...

Best regards.

It's not necessarily required to have oil in the expansion tank! This has been reported several times before: under normal city driving conditions, no coolant disappears, but it does when driving a bit faster. My father once had a Passat with a 90 hp gasoline engine, and it was the same. No white smoke, no oil in the water, and no water in the oil.

What are you not interested in? Changing the ZKD (presumably a specific component) isn't exactly a great job, but there are definitely worse things!

Sure.

It occasionally happens that a crack in the cylinder head or block, between the combustion chamber and the water jacket, only appears under high engine load. So, it's only when the water is under pressure on the highway that it actually consumes water, because the hairline crack opens up slightly.

I hope it's "just" the ZKD.

Hello,
I agree with my predecessors. It's probably a ZKD (cylinder head gasket). Have you had the cooling system pressure tested at your trusted workshop? Perhaps the error will be recognized there.

Best regards, huskydoctor.

Hello,

I need to clarify something quickly; in my previous response, I was referring to the KW screw, not the NW screw.

Hello again...

I've been searching the forum for some time now, trying to find the exact differences between the fuel injectors for the 1Z and ANF engines... unfortunately, I haven't found the right information yet.

My question is as follows...

I ordered a set of fuel injectors on eBay because I thought the ones from the AFN would definitely fit in my 1Z... but now I have some concerns...

I received this part number: 'kwfrance 937 38416b4 r 0432 193 746'.
That's at least what it says in the description.

You can see the fuel injectors at the link provided.




I hope you can help me with this...

Best regards, Mikel...

PS: I'm now using almost 2 liters per 100 km... I should still drive http://i21.ebayimg.com/01/i/01/15/00/c4_1.JPG.

I'm too concerned about the risk of water hammer or the danger of complete water loss if the leak is actually somewhere else.
There are also UV-sensitive dyes that can be added to the cooling water. This allows you to identify other potential losses, such as those from the radiator or water pump, etc.

Hello,

Where can I get the UV-sensitive dyes for the coolant? We have a leak detection problem in another water circuit.

Sincerely,
Christian

christians wrote:

I'm too concerned about the risk of water hammer or the danger of complete water loss if the leak is actually somewhere else. There are also UV-sensitive dyes that can be added to the cooling water. With this, one can then make other losses (radiator, water pump, etc.) visible.

I'm not sure. In school, we used fluorescein.
Perhaps this will help.

In other systems, such as district heating or potable water, the process also involves the addition or temporary filling of flammable gases or mixtures, which are then detected using a gas detector. However, this method would not work in an engine, where there is always some oil mist and exhaust present. "If you're interested, feel free to send me a private message."

@mhernach

Okay, I would try to find the leak as quickly as possible. Your water loss seems to be a bit higher than it should be. Remove the head if you are sure the leak is not coming from somewhere else.

Hello,

I would also first look for the leak . Please enter "Kernlochverschluss" in the search function. I replaced the seal on my father's car at 270,000 km, and the cause was the KLV . If it happens to be the head gasket (which is usually very likely), then definitely replace the Kernlochverschlüsse as well... otherwise, you will at least have to remove the timing belt again (that's what happened to me ).

On the engine block (below the turbo), there is another KLV that, in our Audi, failed a few weeks later [img][/img] as a tip for leak detection.http://www.smiliemania.de/smilie.php?smile_ID=3{MARKER}...nur

@ Chriss 11
Hi, you can find the dyes on Google. Just search for "tracer stick".
If you want to buy them here, ask Mag at the Bosch wholesale supplier. They are also distributed by Waeco, and they definitely also have the ones for coolant.
Best regards.
Gerrit.

...or the cheap and cheerful method of "pinch the hose and release" while the cap is closed on the expansion tank. Where it chirps, there is a leak . Good luck...