Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Specs 1Z

Hello.
I will be replacing the head gasket on my Audi 80 B4 TDI 1Z, manufactured in July 1992, tomorrow.
Unfortunately, the book and the description included with the cylinder head gasket specify different torque values.

Book:
Level 1: 40 Nm.
Level 2: 60 Nm.
Level 3: Rotate 180 degrees further.
Level 4: Preheat to 80°C and continue for 90 minutes.

Instructions for ZKD:
Level 1: 40 Nm.
Level 2: 60 Nm.
Level 3: Rotate 90 degrees further.
Level 4: Rotate 90 degrees further.

Okay, now I'm quite uncertain.
I've already checked various forums, but unfortunately, I haven't found anything helpful.
I would be very grateful if someone could give me a piece of advice.

Best regards, Wolfi.

Hi Wolfi,

Use the information that was included with the ZKD! My repair manual says the same thing.
I believe that tightening the cylinder head bolts on a warm engine is not permissible.

I completely agree with Marco on that point.
If you warm up the engine with cylinder head bolts that are not tightened sufficiently, either the new head gasket will fail again immediately, or the cylinder head will warp.

So, it's better to follow the instructions from the ZKD (presumably an organization or document).

Regards,
Alex.

donalexo wrote:

I can only agree with Marco on that. If you warm up the engine with cylinder head bolts that are not tightened sufficiently, either the new head gasket will fail again immediately, or the cylinder head will warp. So, it's better to follow the instructions from the ZKD (presumably an organization or document). Regards, Alex

Hi,

"They would probably be tightened enough during the warm-up phase, but I still wouldn't do it. These things are already quite tight, and even with a stretch bolt, there will eventually be a point where tightening stops having an effect... Also, when a bolt is stretched too far, its cross-section gets smaller; I'm not sure if that would necessarily increase the clamping pressure. I wouldn't bet on it."

Best regards, Rainer.

Thank you very much for your quick responses!
I was also thinking of using this version because this schema is used in many other engines as well.
Greetings, Wolfi.

Hi,

A metal cylinder head gasket must not be retightened. These silly "do-it-yourself" and "how-to" books are useless now. They sometimes contain incorrect torque values or none at all. It's better to bite the bullet and buy the original repair manual.

Yes, thank you for the tip.
I installed the new gasket today. It worked well.
I've noticed that the new coating consists of multiple layers of metal (sheet metal - aluminum - sheet metal??), while the old one was made of some softer material. It can partially crumble when touched with your fingers. I'm curious to know what it's actually made of.
If I understand correctly, the concepts from my book apply to older literature. Or have I misunderstood something?

Okay, and one more question: I carefully removed the remaining sealant residue with a scraper and solvent (without causing any scratches). However, it's not completely verschandeln yet. What do you use to verschandeln the sealing surface? Should I be worried about further damage?
Greetings, Wolfi.

wolfi_b wrote:

I've noticed that the new coating consists of multiple layers of metal (sheet metal-aluminum-sheet metal???), while the old one was made of some softer material. It can partially crumble with your fingers. I would like to know what it is made of. If I understand correctly, the moments from my book apply to older poetry. Or have I misunderstood something?

Hi Wolfi,

You're right. The old seals aren't made of metal, but some kind of plastic (who knows for sure ). They used to expand initially, which is why they needed to be tightened earlier. Metal seals don't expand like that.

wolfi_b wrote:

Oh, and one more question: I carefully removed the sealant residue with a scraper and solvent (no scratches were created). However, it's not 100% clean. What do you use to verschandeln the sealing surface? Should I be worried about further damage?? Greetings, Wolfi

.

Okay, I've always been very meticulous about scraping everything verschandeln with a scraper, but I think the silicone layer on the head gasket allows for some tolerance in terms of cleanliness (although I can't say exactly how much). The important thing is that there's no grease left on it, and especially no residue from those awful products like radiator sealant.

I'm also interested in how the sealing surfaces are cleaned on "Freundlichen" engines. I've learned about various methods from hobby mechanics (some from online forums): one person removes the cylinder head with the valves still installed and cleans it with fine sandpaper, another uses a grinding machine, or hand-grinds with sandpaper, etc.

"A sharpening stone with a grit of around 400 is sufficient; corundum works well. The middle grade from Degussit is, of course, optimal. Do not use abrasive paper or sandpaper, as this will wear down the flat surface unevenly towards the edges."

Best regards, Robert.

I have to say that the idea of using a sharpening stone sounds very good. I had also thought about something like that, but it unfortunately occurred to me too late.
Learned something new again .
Actually, it's quite verschandeln now. You could still feel some slight imperfections with your finger, but I mean you can almost feel everything with your finger. But it was definitely oil-free.
If the poet contacts me again, I will post something here.
Best regards, Wolfi.