Power window problem only in the driver's door of a Polo

Hey fellow mechanics,

Unfortunately, the search function didn't really help me, so here's my question:

A friend's 2000 Volkswagen Polo is experiencing an issue with the power window on the driver's side door, which manifests as follows:

The window no longer goes down.
'When the switch is activated, a relay can be heard clicking inside the door (only once, even when the switch is held down).'
'The window on the passenger side opens and closes normally. If the window is already closed and the switch is held down, you can hear the relay click off again.'
4. The motor in the driver's side door doesn't seem to be receiving power, as it isn't moving at all. If it were stuck, the relay should disengage, but it isn't doing so.
According to the label on the fuse box cover, there is only one fuse for the power windows, and it appears to be okay. However, when you remove it, you can hear the relay clicking in the passenger door, but the window does not move.

Okay, here's the question:

'Are there possibly separate fuses for each side? The symptoms are the same when a fuse is pulled. There are also significantly more fuses than listed on the cover, but I can't find any documentation about them in the owner's manual.'
For the A2 model, there's a note that the control unit might be malfunctioning and that the error can sometimes be resolved with a reset. However, since the passenger side still works, it probably isn't related to the control unit, right?

Has anyone else experienced similar problems before, or can someone give me a hint?

Thank you for your response, and best regards.

Eike.

Hi!

F38 is for the driver's door (25A).
F39 is for the front passenger door (25A).

Dirk.

Hello, I think the engine is seized.
Remove the casing, connect the switch, and tap the motor while operating the switch.
Then it should work again.
The window lift motors were replaced with a new type because the old ones were applying too much pressure to the glass, causing them to get stuck.

Hello, I think the engine is seized.
Remove the casing, connect the switch, and tap the motor while operating the switch.
Then it should work again.
Es wurden mal die Fensterhebermotoren durch eine neue Art ersetzt,weil die alten zu hohen Druck auf die Scheibe bringen und dadurch festhängen.

Hello,

Shouldn't the relay then immediately switch off again?
Am I correct in assuming that the anti-jamming protection is implemented through a current monitoring system of the lifting motor? A jammed motor almost acts like a short circuit, as only the copper resistance of the motor winding comes into play. Then, at the moment the switch is activated, the interior light should momentarily flicker (this happens with my G4 when I try to close a closed window further).
It's possible that it's just a loose connector. I probably won't be able to fix it without removing the door panel.

Greetings.

Eike.

Hello,

It's important to consider even the most basic issues, especially with the driver's door, such as a broken wire.
I experienced the same issue with my friend's G3. In the electronics compartment of her car, it still makes a 'click' sound when confirming, but the folding mechanism no longer moves at all. In her case, the positive terminal wire was simply broken at the bend in the door.

Best regards, Andy.

Hi everyone,

Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the door panel on a Polo? The window glass is stuck at the top and can't be lowered because of a faulty window lifter.
I managed to remove the plastic cover of the door handle and access the screws. I also loosened the screw located on the A-pillar, near the exterior mirror.

How do we proceed from here without accidentally damaging anything?

Greetings.

Eike.

Okay,

I have now removed the door panel following these instructions:

...erstmal musst du die 2 schrauben hinter dem griff lösen, dazu am türhebel vorsichtig aushebeln und anschliessend soweit ziehen, bis das untere stück nicht mehr weiter abwill, nun musst du von der seite her mitnem schraubenzieher das untere teil ausheblen. wenn du das gemacht hast, findest du vorne vor dem Spigeldreieck noch eine Schraube, die muss raus. Unterhalb des Speigeldreicekcs ist die verkleidung eingeängt, daher kann man sie nciht wie bei dem vorgänger einfach abziehen. Daher musst du jetzt vorischtig die türverkleidung rundum durch festes ziehen lösen und anschliessend nach boben rausdrücken. Knopf vorher abschrauben und rahmen rausnehmen. DiA protective film, matte or whatever it's called, just be careful with it and don't apply too much pressure at once.Carefully remove it at a slow speed. Be careful of the holes. The white pieces are easiest to remove with a pair of pliers; simply clamp the pliers firmly and twist them sideways to pull them out.

I found this information using Google and it worked well. However, in the case of the Polo, there's no longer a film glued on, but rather a foamed PE film or something similar. The adhesive was made of a black, tar-like substance. Because it's quite warm right now, it was easy to separate the layers.

Okay, here's the translation:

'Now, regarding my problem. A bundle of wires with different gauges connects to the window motor. There are two thicker wires (approximately 1.5 sq mm), one red and one brown. These likely provide the power supply. I was able to identify the brown wire as ground and the red wire as 2 volts (measured by touching it against the car body with a pin).'
When you press the window switch, a relay clicks inside the motor, but nothing happens. The 12 volts remain constant and do not drop. When measuring on the ground wire, the following is observed: at rest, there are 1.5 volts relative to the chassis; at level 1, the voltage increases to 1.7 volts, and at level 2, it rises to 2.2 volts.

What does this tell us? Could it be that the +12V line in the engine is interrupted, since the voltage remains unchanged? The voltage drop on the ground wire is increasing slightly, as the line is also being loaded with the excitation current of the relay.

A cable break in the door's hinge area seems unlikely to me, as that would cause the voltage on the ground wire to rise to 12V.

Is the lifting motor broken now? What do you think something like that would cost? Can I replace it myself, or is it better to have it done at a workshop (because of the cable tensioning, etc.)?

Greetings.

Eike.

Hello Eike,

ich hatte mal so ein ähnliches Problem beim Lupo meiner Mutter. Da ging das Fenster von beiden Türen nicht mehr. Erst fing es mit der Fahrertür an und einige Wochen später auch bei der Beifahrertür. Man konnte die FH für einige Zeit wieder gangbar machen, wenn man auf einer schlechten Straße z.B. Kopfsteinflaster ständig versucht hat die Fenster zu öffenen. Meistens gingen sie dann plötzlich runter und funktionierten einige Tage bzw. Wochen. Ich hatte mir auch mal die Mühe gemacht und die Verkleidung abgebaut. Wenn den Motor anfasst und einigemale versucht das Fenster zu öffenen, merkte man das sich der Motor erwärmt hat sich aber nicht rührte. Ursache war wohl wie schon weiter oben beschrieben das Hängen durch den Druck auf die Scheibe. In dThe workshop has...They replaced the engine. Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly how much it cost. But I think it was around 135 euros.
Just try to see if your engine also warms up relatively quickly. Then you'll at least know whether it wants to but can't .

Regards,
DENNIS

Hello everyone,

I'm currently experiencing the exact same problem with a Volkswagen Golf IV Highline, manufactured in September 1999.
When the window switch for the driver's side window is pressed, you can still hear a click inside the door, but the window will not move down even a millimeter from its closed position.
Previously, this window could always be opened and closed without any problems. The other three windows are also functioning properly.
I suspect the power window motor is faulty. Would it be advisable to have a diagnostic check and repair done at VW (in terms of price/warranty)? Or is this a known problem that I might be able to fix myself (I think I've read about it before)?
Has anyone had experience with this issue?

'@eike: How did you solve the problem with your Polo? (I can't really find an answer in this thread about what the actual cause of the error was).'

Regards,
Tom.


Hello again,

For those who are interested:
It was a faulty window regulator motor in the driver's door. The material cost is approximately €150 plus VAT. There was no goodwill offered by VW because the known 'weak point' is actually the window regulator itself, and mine is working perfectly fine...
Well, now the window is working again, and hopefully that was the first and last problem I've had with the car in the past 5 years!

Regards,
Tom.