AFN Engine: Tips & Tricks for Optimal Temperature

Hello everyone,

I've noticed that my AFN engine is taking a very long time to reach operating temperature.
A VAG master once told me that the engine only needs 3 minutes to warm up.

I need 13 C° outside temperature, 15 minutes in city traffic (mostly 60 km/h, with some traffic light stops), covering 9 km to bring the water temperature up to 90 ° (oil is about 80 C°).

Is that normal?

At -15°C, for example, the water will not get warmer than 70-80°C.

How long do your tractors usually take?

The cold start cycle is ultimately the most wear-intensive.

Perhaps some thermostat has malfunctioned .

Since my AGR valve has been 'defective,' it also takes longer to reach the set temperature - perhaps that's the problem you're experiencing.

I have a 1Z engine, but it's mostly the same as the AFN.

"Mine takes about 10 minutes to reach 80°C (according to the display) in the current temperatures (around 10-15°C) when driving on a regular road. The day before yesterday, I stopped several times and observed my thermostat, and it reached 80°C coolant temperature. So, it seems to be working correctly."

Edit: I can't see any connection to a "defective" EGR valve. In fact, the combustion chamber temperature is even higher.

Hello!

My experiences align with yours.

Greetings,
Klaus.

Bitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.
G3, AFN, 135 km.

However, at an outside temperature of 13°C, it takes 15 minutes in city traffic (mostly 60 km/h, with some traffic light stops) to bring the water up to 90°C, covering a distance of 9 km (oil temperature approximately 80°C).

That's fine... I also had roughly similar values with my two AFN devices.

Regards,
arne

Okay, thank you very much.

Then I'm relieved.

I'm just a diesel hypochondriac .

That's what it looks like! I'm also getting roughly the same values!

Hi,

The ASV (Automatic Speed Limiter) also takes about the same amount of time. During the coldest part of winter, I once needed 28 kilometers of city driving before the oil reached 90 degrees Celsius.

Right now (10...15 degrees Celsius), I'm only getting about 80 degrees Celsius oil temperature after 10 km of city driving.

Best regards,

Jan.

http://www.ralfhandel.de/images/temperatur.gif
http://www.ralfhandel.de/images/oel-wasser-mit-SH.gif

Edit: I can't imagine any connection with a 'defective' EGR valve. The combustion chamber temperature is even higher.

possibly because the efficiency increases in the partial load range .

With a faulty AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system, my ALH engine takes significantly longer to warm up. However, it has a water-cooled AGR system, so I'm not sure how much of an impact it's having...

The temperature differences in the mornings aren't that extreme right now -> let's try it out.

CU Gremlin.

Abgesehen davon dass es als normal angesehen wird, kannst Du ja mal schauen ob dein Wasserventil auch schön brav zu ist wenn der Motor seine knappen 90°C noch nicht erreicht hat. F
Simply connect to the lower radiator hose. If it gets warm very early, then your water thermostat is permanently open.
The upper hose shouldn't be filled with coolant either, but it's usually warm anyway because heat tends to accumulate at the top. So, check the lower hose. It's good if the engine is already slightly warm and the lower hose is cold. Once the operating temperature is reached, the lower hose should warm up relatively quickly.

That's great information, thanks again!

Another consideration regarding the 'ice-cold engine':

During and shortly after a cold start, my engine seems to be running very rich (approximately 200% fuel enrichment).
Under normal operating conditions, inject the usual amount of diesel fuel, as indicated by the gauge.

That would at least explain the noticeable 'bump' when the engine is cold.

However, in the context of 10c tuning, it is always reported that there may be melting on the piston due to the longer injection duration.

'Then this 'cold start' cycle should definitely melt the pistons, given these quantities. But it apparently doesn't. Strangely, it doesn't produce any black smoke either. It should, though, shouldn't it? Where am I going wrong in my thinking?'

ObenbeiMutti wrote:

During and shortly after a cold start, my engine seems to be running very rich (meaning: approximately 200%) in the In normal operation, inject the usual amount of diesel, as indicated by the gauge.

Welche Anzeige? MFA, VAGCOM... ?
In what operating condition?

Quote:

Then this "cold cycle" should definitely melt the pistons, with these amounts. But it apparently doesn't. Strangely, it doesn't produce any black smoke either. It should, though, shouldn't it? Where is my mistake in thinking.

It will likely be revealed if you answer the questions above...

According to the MFA (Multifunction Display), I couldn't really observe any increase in fuel injection volume with the TDI engine. However, I did notice a significant increase in fuel consumption in a 1.6-liter gasoline engine, which consumes almost double the amount when cold and idling.

The vehicles are all Tourans.

@BesidesMom

After about 10 km, the engine was warm. The ATJ (115 hp PD) warms up faster (hot air comes out of the vents sooner; with the 1Z, I always used to set it to cold and then switch to warm once the temperature gauge reached 90°C, but the new one has a Climatronic) and the temperature gauge rises faster (although that doesn't necessarily mean anything). There's an error code in the engine control unit related to the exhaust gas recirculation valve, but I haven't had a chance to fix it yet.

Best regards, WarLord.

'In the winter, with an outside temperature of around 0°C, my air handling unit sometimes takes about 10 kilometers to reach normal operating temperature for the cooling water. I should really dig up the logs from last winter to check.'
At that time, however, the AGR was not yet defective.