Bearing puller tools: Are cheap ones any good?

Hello,

Has anyone ever bought and tested one of those cheap bearing puller sets from e***?
"Is this stuff any good? When you buy parts from HAZET, you're paying almost three times as much. Sure, the quality is probably much higher, but for occasional use, it's just too expensive for me."
I'm just worried that if the load gets too heavy, the cheap tools will break or bend, and therefore simply won't work.

Hello,

I haven't had good experiences with cheap tools. My advice: It's better to spend a little more money, because buying cheap often means buying twice... I once bought brake line flaring tools from an online store (E***), and they were absolute junk.
Please inquire with MATRA to see if they offer a similar product. They are often more affordable than HAZET and are also of good quality.

CU Christian.

Hello,

Thank you for the tip. I will check with Matra about it.
I usually only buy branded tools. However, with this puller, the price is more than double (100 to almost 250 euros), and I don't need it that often.
I'll think about it some more.

it can also be done without it...
A tank mechanic, from whom I learned this trick, usually can't put the parts from which the bearing is to be pressed out under a press.

Help: (Prerequisite: a CO2 welding machine)
Front axle support for Volkswagen Golf III/II.

Remove the shock absorber (including removal of the driveshaft). Press out the hub, or tap it out.
The inner ring remains on the hub. Carefully use an angle grinder to reduce the material thickness of the ring without damaging the hub. If the material is thin enough, a tap with a hammer may cause the ring to crack and break.

Press out the other retaining ring from the housing, remove the balls and grease. Remove the snap ring (the one on the side from which the bearing is to be pressed out).

Okay, here's the translation:

"Now for the tricky part: Using a CO2 welding machine (properly adjusted, experiment to find the right settings), weld a seam along the path of the balls in the outer race of the bearing, which is still inside the wheel housing and needs to be removed. Make sure to weld all the way around the entire circumference."

The welding seam causes the following: 1. It heats the material, including the wheel bearing housing, but not excessively. This causes any adhering substances that hinder the process to loosen and be pushed out, and the wheel housing expands due to the heat.
2. Immediately after cooling (when the welds are still very hot but no longer glowing), they contract and pull the bearing ring with them (they cause it to contract).

The interference fit between the bearing ring and the wheel hub housing is decreasing. The ring can be removed with some force or light taps.
Those who are quick can slide the new bearing into the still-warm bearing housing.
I used the hammer handle to pry it open.

This principle can be applied in many variations for various types of interference fits, without causing damage due to excessive heating.
It also helped solve the problem, even in very difficult and seemingly hopeless attempts, by providing support during the process (using a press with over 15 tons of force).
Try it.

"Good tools make the job half done... and thinking a little more about it makes it even easier."

Stay away from that eBay junk. I once got weak and bought an impact driver... I wish I had never seen that thing. It's completely useless and has terrible manufacturing tolerances that are just shockingly bad. Well, I'm to blame, what do you expect for 30 euros? Unfortunately, it was a very expensive lesson.