ESP Failure: Engine Won't Start

Hey, a rhyme in the headline...
Okay:
I removed and resealed my ESP. The leak was located at the rear, near the cylinder head. The O-ring on the shaft that drives the cold start system was hardened.
After installing the timing belt and starting the engine, it started, but ran very roughly... I then adjusted the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) slightly, aligning it with the marks I had previously made, but there was no change. The engine ran unevenly and had no throttle response.
I found another leak, specifically at the shaft where the throttle linkage actuator is located. I also removed the cover and replaced the O-ring there.

What should I do? The engine won't start at all anymore. I was wondering if I might have made a mistake with the timing belt, but I think I installed it correctly. At least, the markings are correct: the crankshaft pulley is locked, the camshaft is fixed, and the crankshaft timing mark is aligned with the indicator hole.
Is there a trick to temporarily adjust the injection time to at least get the car to a workshop that can fine-tune it?
Best regards, Martin.

Enjoy your meal!

Does it not start anymore since you replaced the gasket on the throttle shaft, or is there something else?
Had it not started before?

If it's only after the repair that you notice it, then you might have the part that the throttle cable is attached to installed incorrectly.
It's placed on the throttle shaft, where there's a toothed gear. If you don't mark it beforehand...
If the part is installed incorrectly, it won't work.
Just try assembling the part by shifting it one tooth; it might work.
he's not responding again, or he's going crazy, or he's spinning up very quickly and uncontrollably, so you should...
be prepared to quickly turn off the ignition.

Have you put all the feathers back in the lid?

If it wasn't working properly before this action, it's possible that you still have some room for improvement.
Pumpe hat, wie hast Du entlüftet? Air in the return line?

Try this:
Disconnect the inlet hose from the filter, fill it with a syringe or similar device, and hang it.
Place the ESP in a container filled with clean fuel, ensuring the container is positioned higher than the ESP. Connect the return line accordingly.
You too, go ahead and try it. Does the ESP suck in the fuel, and does it produce fuel without any bubbles?
What about the return?

Here are a few things you could quickly check:

Does fuel reach the ESD (Electronic Stability Device)? Loosen the over-cap nut, crank it, does fuel come out?
Does the shut-off valve work? Can you manually apply 12V to it? Does it click?
Loosen the central screw between the energy-saving lamps, check for leaks, is there any fuel leaking?

Hi, Jockel.

Hello Jockel.
Thank you for the response.
Following your first tip, I marked the part with the lever for the throttle cable and, I believe, installed it correctly. Of course, it's possible that I misaligned a tooth, as everything is very delicate... I'll double-check it.
I had filled the fuel lines, so the pump should have received fuel. Some fuel also reached the injectors, although I hadn't tightened the fittings yet during the first attempt to start it.
I hung up the feathers, or rather, the small one.
I also had the facial expression piece that attaches to the 'pliers' reattached properly. (Although I'm not entirely sure what the function of that part is).
I put the adjustment screw back in exactly the same position it was in before, measuring it with a caliper.
After the initial rough run, I let it run for a long time, but it didn't really improve. Also, very few air bubbles were coming out. After that, I removed and reattached the lid.
Even though I'm inclined to rule out the timing belt, is there a quick way to check it? I tend to make my own markings because the others are usually difficult to read. The 'OT' mark on the crankshaft also doesn't really look right. There's this 'ground' area, but no corresponding point. However, there's another mark on the crankshaft that looks exactly the same. But it really can't be 'OT.' First, the one I'm using has sealant on it, and second, it's so far away from the 'good' and 'bad' marks that it can't be the correct one.
It's a pain when you don't do something very often. I have to admit, I haven't worked on many diesels before, mostly older four-stroke engines. I thought, after dealing with the fuel injection pump on my 2002 tii, nothing much worse could possibly happen...


Regarding the accelerator pedal: What's going on inside under the cover? How is this supposed to work? What could I have done wrong?
Best regards, Martin.

Hello Martin,

Quote:

The facial expression that attaches to the "pliers" has also been reattached properly. (Although I'm not entirely clear on the function of that part). I put the adjustment screw back in exactly the same position it was in before, measuring it with a caliper.

Pliers?
After even a half-turn of the flow rate screw makes a huge difference.
Just try screwing them in a half-turn.

Quote:

Even though I'm leaning towards ruling out the timing belt, is there a quick way to check it?

Crankshaft at Top Dead Center (TDC) position 1, then check if the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are aligned correctly.
Do you have the surveying tool?

Unfortunately, I no longer remember what the marking on the flywheel looks like, as I...
Since I installed a G60 flywheel on my TDI transmission, it looks different.
There should be a notch.
There should be a cast metal protrusion inside the gearbox housing; you can see it if you remove the plastic cover.
turns around and peers in from the left fender.

If you have the NW and KW valves in the wrong position, you'll get valve chaos .

Quote:

Here's the translation: "Regarding the accelerator pedal: What's going on inside under the cover? How is this supposed to work? What could I have done wrong?"

From the valve that controls the direction of flow to the cylinder head, and where the LL (low load) adjustment is made.
A wave travels inwards. Attached to it is a spring that connects to the signal box and controls the LL (likely referring to a specific system or function).
The speed at which it is rotating is responsible.
A spring-loaded mechanism connects the accelerator pedal shaft to the control system.
Maybe I'll have time this weekend to upload the pictures from the last pump disassembly.
I can't just tell you exactly where everything needs to be connected without seeing it.


Check the timing and pump alignment first.
Did you adjust the pump inlet shaft after disassembly? Make sure it's not rotated 90 degrees now.
or injected at a 180-degree angle.

Hi, Jockel.

Hello Jockel. It's like a direct hotline.
As I said, I definitely didn't completely mess up the timing. If there's an error, it's probably only by one tooth, either forward or backward. But, as I said, I don't think that's the case, because I would have had to be pretty drunk when I marked it...

I meant the part that's attached to the gas linkage shaft. You could also call it a 'prong' or a 'fork' (the latter probably describes it best).

I'm not sure if I reversed the timing when I installed it... Hmm... Well, the engine was running after the installation. Then, with the cover still attached, I removed it. I took the timing belt off afterward, and I don't quite remember if I turned the shaft at that point... How can I tell if it's injecting fuel incorrectly? Or is it just a matter of trial and error?
Well, right now I'm still approaching this with the ambition of 'doing it myself,' but if it comes to the worst, I'll probably have to ask a friend who's a VW workshop foreman. I hope I can avoid that, though...
I don't have the specialized tools for adjusting the camshaft timing, but I might be able to get them through a contact. It worked out fine last time when I changed the timing belt without them... However, I managed to damage the locking bolt (15.45 mm) used to secure the ESP drive gear.
I'm going to adjust the screw a half turn.
I can already see that the setup process is going to be a lot of fun...
I actually managed to get the lid on quite well, but I had to unscrew the adjustment screw to do it, and I also replaced the O-ring while I was at it.
Is that something that can be easily done with the tools of an authorized VW workshop?

The OT marking: So, I was looking for a cast nose, but I couldn't find one. And I also couldn't find a notch on the shaft. As I said, there's a flat-ground area...
Best regards, Martin.

Hello Martin,

ich würde als erstes sicherstellen, daß die Grundeinstellung stimmt. Dazu muß der Ventildeckel runter, am freien Ende der NW ist ne Nut, die muß parallel zur Dichtfläche des ZK stehen (ich leg einfach ne Schieblehre rein und mittel dann mit ner Fühlerlehre aus, Augenmaß geht im Grunde auch. Die Nocken vom 1. Zylinder müssen dabei nach oben zeigen. Das Riemenrad der ESP hat ne Markierung auf der Stirnseite, die soll mit ner "Delle" im Schutzblech fluchten, dann hast Du den gleichen Effekt wie mit diesem Absteckdorn (den ich genausowenig hab wie das Einstelllineal für die NW). Zum KW-OT: wenn der nicht eindeutig feststellbar ist, mußt Du ihn ermitteln. Ich hatte das auch mal und hab mir aus ner kaputten Glühkerze ne Schlauchwaage gebastelt. Wenn Du die Rundmutter abschraubst, kannst Du den Glühstift rausklopfen und hast das Gewindeteil übrig. Ein paassendes Röhrchen reingeklebt, in die Bohrung vom 4 Zylinder (kommt man besser dran als beim 1.) schrauben, nen langen, mit Wasser gefüllten, durchsichtigen Schlauch drüber und vorsichtig an der KW drehen (vorne links aufbocken, 5. Gang rein und am Rad drehen). Aufpassen, daß kein Wasser in den Zylinder gesaugt wird. Wenn Du beim OT angekommen bist, siehst Du, daß das Wasser sich beim leichten Hin- und Herdrehen nicht mehr bewegt, das geht recht genau. MFirst, you'll see how the markings on the flywheel work.
If the belt drive is properly adjusted, you can check what the pump is doing. Before that, I wouldn't adjust anything on it. I have several ideas about what might be wrong.
- The ESP (Electronic Stability Program) might have been quite empty after the fuel system work. If you still have the original diesel filter and the car is in the cold, the return valve might close, and you could crank the engine endlessly until the fuel pump is primed. It might then run briefly on residual fuel, shake, not respond to the accelerator, and eventually stall. Jockel's tip about using "fall diesel" (fuel that has settled) can help with this.
- You installed the adjustment lever shaft incorrectly. The regulator group (the spring package under the cover) must be oriented so that the springs are tensioned when you accelerate, which means the shaft should be rotated counter-clockwise (I don't know offhand if this is even possible or if the parts would collide with the centrifugal governor).
- The adjustment lever is incorrectly positioned on the shaft. To check this, you can give it some throttle while the engine is idling, preferably without the outer springs, just with the lever on the shaft. If the position is correct, you should feel slightly more resistance just before the full throttle position (about 1cm before).
- die Mengenschraubeneinstellung ist doch nicht da, wo sie hin soll. See Jockel's tip.

Forget VW! Not even a Bosch service can restore the pump setting: "it has to be sent in and adjusted at the factory." Of course, if you already need a special tool for the timing belt tension, you might as well put your pants on with pliers . You can definitely do that, you haven't adjusted anything else. Just don't touch the two limit screws, otherwise it will be unnecessary fiddling with a lot of trial and error. The adjustment screw alone isn't rocket science. If you've managed to get a Kugelfischer pump working again, then don't worry . I only had a single-carb 2002. It was my first car, bought for 500 Marks and driven for almost 10 years. Unfortunately, I didn't have time at the end (for my thesis) to weld it again for the TÜV inspection, and I gave it away as a parts donor .

Best regards, Uli.

Hello!
Thanks for the tips. At least the engine started again. The timing was correct; the problem was a manufacturing error in the throttle linkage.
Specifically, I had correctly installed the springs inside, but the two metal parts were mounted incorrectly, in front of the lever instead of behind it. That must have been the problem. Bleeding the pump was also quite a challenge.
Best regards, Martin.