Schön wenn der Fehlerteufel zuschlägt (Ladedruck zu hoch) | Posts 16+

Oil in a VTG can???

That's crazy.

I thought my "drueck ich das Oel fleissig im Verdichter raus" wastegate turbo was the only one that does that.

In September 2004, after approximately 9 years, I noticed a significant amount of oil in the pressure vessel.

When it comes to Waster, the path is clear:

Compressor -> Boost pressure reading to N75 valve -> Pressure sensor.

But with a VTG... ???? I have no idea how that's supposed to work.

Just a quick question for clarification.
I read the article: "Boost pressure indicator: Should every TDI have one?"
According to this, the clogged air filter should have become noticeable during acceleration due to negative pressure on the LDA (keyword: unusual negative pressure).
Or have I possibly misunderstood something?

Perhaps the "adhesive" isn't entering the can through the vacuum system, but from the outside, where it accumulates on the VTG rod and then migrates into the interior of the pressure chamber due to the movement of the rod, etc.

wutz wrote:

Just a quick question for clarification. I read the article: "Boost pressure indicator: Should every TDI have one?" According to this, the clogged air filter should have become noticeable during acceleration due to negative pressure on the LDA (keyword: unusual negative pressure). Or have I perhaps misunderstood something.

No, you already understood correctly .

But for example, I don't know if the Bertil even has an LDA on board - and if it does, whether it also has a suction area...

@ulf
You're right, Bertil only wrote about boost pressure logs. I initially assumed he had an LDA (Linear Displacement Amplifier).
Thank you.

Hi,

Quote:

But for example, I don't know if Bertil even has an LDA on board - and if it does, whether it also has a suction area.

You won't be able to achieve anything with an LDA and a naturally aspirated engine on an AXR. The AXR closes the throttle during slip mode, which will minimize airflow anyway.

I had a temporary LDA (Linear Displacement Actuator) installed, and there was no vacuum pressure to be measured.

Quote:

Perhaps the "glue" isn't entering the can through the vacuum system, but from the outside, when something deposits on the VTG rod and then migrates into the interior of the pressure can due to the movement of the rod, etc.

That would mean the can's membrane is leaking. In that case, other problems would likely arise.

Bertil wrote:

With the AXR, you won't be able to achieve proper alignment using an LDA with a suction nozzle. The suction nozzle closes the DK (dust collection) during sliding operation. Therefore, the airflow will be minimized anyway.

Yes, of course -> yuck, always these extra features due to emissions regulations .

Hi everyone,

Since most TDI engines provide a small amount of boost pressure even during deceleration (e.g., 0.2 bar or more at 2000 RPM), I don't think you'll see a vacuum if the air filter isn't completely blocked. It's likely that the pressure will simply decrease slightly, and that's all.

Best regards,

Jan.

lappen wrote:

.... Regarding the clutch, I can't tell you much. I would put pressure on VAG accordingly, and then it will certainly work out with a goodwill gesture.

...:Blow away the dust:

Today, the phone rang, and my uncle from VW actually offered me a 40% discount on the parts.

If it weren't so sad, I would have almost fallen off the chair from laughing.
40% off for a constructive defect... Simply great! That's how you keep your customers.

...:Blow away the dust:

Today, the phone rang, and my uncle from VW actually offered me a 40% discount on the parts.

If it weren't so sad, I would have almost fallen off the chair from laughing.
40% off for a constructive defect... Simply great! That's how you keep your customers.


Hello Bertil,

Do those at VW understand that a customer who feels cheated is the most dissatisfied customer?

adhesive VTG.
Earlier in the thread, you mentioned that you rinsed the can with alcohol.
My question is: Did you use a spray, or did you remove them and insert them?

Since my boost control system isn't exactly perfect either, I'm going to work on it this weekend.
Play around with the VTG (vertical travel gauge) and the can again, using a larger 100ml syringe, and check the ease of movement.
take a closer look. In my first attempt a few months ago, using a 60cc syringe, nothing really happened.
A specific result was not obtained, but due to the limited volume of the syringe, the entire adjustment range could not be tested.

The battery is located behind the engine in the AJM model. I don't see an easy way to remove it.
and believe that conventional rust remover sprays, when they evaporate during driving, affect the...
'Hot spots can cause a fire hazard.'

Can you give me a tip on how you managed to do it?

best regards
herwig

Hello Herwig,

herwigw wrote:

.... Do people at VW realize that a customer who feels cheated is the most dissatisfied customer?

No, Volkswagen is probably not aware of that.

Quote:

adhesive VTG. Earlier in the thread, you mentioned that you rinsed the can with alcohol. My question is: Did you use a spray, or did you remove them and insert them?

I used a spray. Specifically, "Kontakt WL". It's made up of 99.8% alcohol and evaporates completely, leaving no residue.

Quote:

... The battery is located behind the engine in the AJM model. I don't see an easy way to remove it. and believe that conventional rust remover sprays, when they evaporate during driving, affect the... "Hot spots can cause a fire hazard." Can you give me a tip on how you managed to do it?

That's great news! I completely removed the turbo. It's not quite as bad on a Golf 4.
I would be cautious with rust removers or oils. They tend to become sticky after years of exposure to heat.

Hello Herwig,

....
Do people at VW realize that a customer who feels cheated is the most dissatisfied customer?

No, Volkswagen is probably not aware of that.

adhesive VTG.
Earlier in the thread, you mentioned that you rinsed the can with alcohol.
My question is: Did you use a spray, or did you remove them and insert them?

I used a spray. Specifically, 'Kontakt WL'. It's made up of 99.8% alcohol and evaporates completely, leaving no residue.
...
The battery is located behind the engine in the AJM model. I don't see an easy way to remove it.
and believe that conventional rust remover sprays, when they evaporate during driving, affect the...
'Hot spots can cause a fire hazard.'

Can you give me a tip on how you managed to do it?


That's great news! I completely removed the turbo. It's not quite as bad on a Golf 4.
I would be cautious with rust dissolvers or oils. They tend to become even more sticky after years of exposure to heat.

Thank you, Bertil, for the tip.

I will therefore try to bribe my printer with alcohol spray; perhaps it will be persuaded to work more regularly .

I'll report next week!

Have a nice weekend!
herwig

Hello Bertil,

I got a good quality 100ml syringe with a rubber seal on the plunger from the pharmacy on Friday.
The pharmacist asked me, with a mixture of pity and concern, what I needed 'the DIE' for.
I was able to reassure you that only my car was having problems.

Using a 100 ml syringe, the entire adjustment range can be tested, and in doing so, it has been found that...
also confirmed that the adjustment in the last quarter before the attack was for maximum pressure.
tends to stutter.

Then I soaked the can from the rod side, where there was good contact, in the cleaning solution, and I also cleaned the adjustment mechanism.
Using a long screwdriver, apply strong downward pressure 50 times from above (with a slight vacuum assist from the syringe).

The result is surprising in two respects.
First, because after prolonged idling or low-speed operation, the overrunning and underrunning clutches...
Here's the translation:

'Firstly, we are still here as before, and secondly, because the driving behavior after at least one full-throttle acceleration...'
It's perfectly fine for a short time right now!

When it works perfectly, the acceleration is surprisingly smooth and consistent, almost.
I might miss that gulping sound after pressing the gas pedal...

On the other hand, the effect I had previously imagined has become more pronounced.
'I was able to observe something quite reliably: The ease of operation of the VTG (likely referring to a specific piece of equipment) is temperature-dependent - in my case, it seems to be working well.'
The hotter the turbo gets.

I hope I'm not bothering you with the pictures, but the difference is huge:

The first log of each MWC (Multi-Well Plate) is recorded after at least 30 seconds of idle time, and the second log is recorded...
immediately after (only after hard braking):
MWB 08
http://members.aon.at/835935/050516/08_1.gif
http://members.aon.at/835935/050516/08_2.gif

MWB 11
http://members.aon.at/835935/050516/11_1.gif
http://members.aon.at/835935/050516/11_2.gif


It remains to be seen whether the problem is solely due to the charger or also the battery pack, and whether...
It's also a good idea to install a cleaning shower directly on the mechanism near the loader.

@Bertil: Did you only spray the can, or did you also spray the attachment point of the linkage on the loader?

herwigw wrote:

... Then I soaked the can from the rod side, where there was good contact, in the cleaning solution, and I also cleaned the adjustment mechanism. Quote: For me, there was no problem with the rod side. The issue I had was that the membrane was stuck. ... It remains to be seen whether the problem is solely due to the charger or also the battery pack, and whether... It's also a good idea to install a cleaning shower directly on the mechanism near the loader.

First of all, your erection has already gotten smaller.
It seems like the VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) on your car is clogged (based on your description of the injectors). This is causing a mechanical jam. The only thing that might help is a lot of movement. Search the forum; there have been various solutions proposed to address this problem (e.g., related to the turn signal relay).

You are on the right track.

If the turbo is severely carbonized and coated with soot, even a lot of movement will only provide temporary relief. If you want a lasting solution, you'll have to get used to a less pleasant approach:

http://www.technologie-entwicklung.de/Gasturbines/VNT15-Turbo/vnt15-turbo.html

I've done this before with a GT1749VA. It's not a big deal; you don't even have to adjust the support rods, and you don't need any special tools. The compressor side can also remain untouched.
The most basic task is the assembly and disassembly.

Thanks, Bertil, for the tip about the turn signal relay method. That might also be a solution if the misfires become more frequent. I'll observe it for a few weeks and maybe try to clear it again on the highway. The daily short trips during the week are probably not helping. As long as the over- and undershoots remain within a range that doesn't cause the engine to go into smoke reduction mode, we might be able to consider it a quirk. The performance feels okay during the good runs.

@R.M.
Thank you for the link. I've actually seen that page before. Due to the repeatedly mentioned limitations...
Regarding the general durability of the VNT15 and the difficult accessibility of the turbocharger on the AJM engine (located behind the engine), I believe...
'That I will immediately invest in a refurbished Turbo plus canister in case of an emergency.'
Fortunately, it's not that far yet.

best regards
herwig