POLO Starter Motor Not Working

Hey fellow mechanics,

The following problem occurred in a friend's Polo SDI, manufactured in 2000:
Turn the ignition on, all the warning lights illuminate normally, turn the key further, but nothing happens.
I called the ADAC and requested roadside assistance. The diagnosis was that a circuit board in the ignition switch was no longer supplying enough power to the starter. So, something was temporarily bypassed in the engine compartment to get it working again.
It's a known issue that has been observed multiple times in Golf vehicles.
I just tried using the search function on this topic, but I always got the message that nothing suitable was found, which I find hard to believe.
Perhaps it's because I switched from Internet Explorer to Opera...?

Has anyone else experienced problems with the ignition switch? Could you post a link about it or provide more information?
Is this kind of error 'repairable,' or does it require an expensive replacement part right away?

Greetings.

Eike.

Has any of you experienced a problem with the ignition switch before, and could you post a link about it or provide me with more information?
Is this kind of error 'repairable,' or does it require an expensive replacement part right away?


The ignition switch is probably defective.
This one costs around 20 euros.
The change takes approximately 30-45 minutes.

The ignition switch is probably defective.
This one costs around 20 euros.
The change takes approximately 30-45 minutes.

Hello,
'Where is this ignition switch located? Are you referring to the switch in the ignition cylinder? According to the ADAC (German Automobile Club), the problem is likely in the plastic housing near the ignition cylinder. They apparently measured directly at the starter motor and found that there wasn't enough voltage reaching it.'

Greetings.

Eike.

Where is this ignition switch located? Are you referring to the switch in the ignition lock?

The ignition switch starter is the electrical component located at the back of the ignition switch.

Initially, I noted, somewhat bewildered and amused, that a professional mechanic was asking questions like these:

Where is this ignition switch located?

...which is then answered by someone in a blue work uniform with the stoicism of Mr. Spock. It's really funny, this upside-down world.

Regarding the issue: I experienced the exact same problem, and it happened on my way to work. At a 'security gate traffic light' with a 4-minute red phase, I encountered a red light and turned off the engine. Since then, I haven't been able to start the engine using the ignition switch.

Just before the second green light, I steered my 1050kg Arosa SDI to the right into a side street, where another smaller road with a 2% incline allowed me to restart the little car at approximately 8 km/h in second gear. Wow, I had never tried that before, and I was incredibly lucky with the terrain and the time of day (early Saturday morning).

After work, I first checked all the fuses, all were OK. Then, I located the cable at the magnetic switch (for professional mechanics : magnetic switch, a combination of a high-current relay and a lifting magnet, which performs a dual function: it moves the starter pinion into the ring gear and, at the end of this lifting stroke, closes a high-current contact that activates the starter. Retraction is achieved by spring force. It is recognizable as a cylindrical part attached to the front of the starter). Because I had a measuring probe with very sharp tips from my work, I took the risk and bypassed the magnetic switch directly to the positive terminal of the battery: Perfect start!

The question remains: Is the break in the cable between the starter switch and the magnetic switch, or is it in the starter switch itself? I haven't looked yet to see if and how I can access the starter switch.

I've only found instructions for the Golf 3 in this forum. Does anyone have experience with the Polo, Lupo, or Arosa?

It's becoming annoying to always have to open the engine compartment to start the car, even though my car has become very exclusive (no one except me can start it ). The engine compartment lock is certainly not designed for so many cycles.

'Thank you in advance.'
and don't take the side comment too seriously .

hello
Holger.

What's the problem here?
The switch on the steering wheel can be easily exposed and SHORT-CIRCUITED; any petty criminal can do it.
However, last month, the cable connecting the magnetic switch to the starter motor in our Gof3 had deteriorated. This wasn't visible until the starter motor was removed.

Hi,

Quote:

- Have to lock the car and remove the ignition key due to the risk of theft - no thanks.

How true

Try using a continuity tester (those things that beep when the resistance of a wire is below a certain value) or an ohmmeter (that thing with a switch that you turn to that funny omega-shaped symbol) to check if you have continuity between the starter switch and the starter motor.

I don't think the Arosa is built much differently than the Ibiza... how to access it pretty much explains itself when you look at it (on the Ibiza, it's two screws plus a few clips). I haven't removed the switch itself yet, as it wasn't necessary, but once the plastic cover is off, you can easily get to it.

Best regards,

Jan.

P.S.: Sorry, I couldn't resist adding that above...

christians wrote:

The switch on the steering wheel can be easily exposed and SHORT-CIRCUITED; any petty criminal can do it.

...
Only a Seat Arosa 1.7 SDI driver would disagree!

Thank you, everyone, for the numerous responses .

The switch on the steering wheel can be easily exposed and SHORT-CIRCUITED; any petty criminal can do it.

I wouldn't have thought the safety standards of my car were that low. What's the deal with the so-called immobilizer then?
Well, I'm okay with that .

check if there is a connection between the ignition switch and the starter motor.

That would be the next step if I can't find any defects with the ignition switch.

Only a Seat Arosa 1.7 SDI driver would disagree!

Well, you know, when you work as a parking attendant and your job only allows you to be near the cars before sunrise or after sunset, you're inclined to push such issues aside and first ask the nice professional car thieves for advice in the comfort of your home.
I'm looking out the window *grrrrr* - it's sleet. Nope, I'm pushing it further away.

Okay, I'll keep you updated!
hello
Holger.

'Oh yes, here's an anecdote about my beloved first Trabant 601 Standard. On the way to vocational school, the only ignition key broke off. (The door had a separate key.) You didn't need to expose anything at all on the ignition switch; you could short-circuit the clamping screws with a metal object. However, since the ignition switch was useless without a key, I installed an old rotary switch to start the car. I secretly activated the ignition via the interior light. Unforgettable were the faces of the mechanics during the emissions test when I explained to them how to turn off the engine .'

Hi,

Quote:

What about the so-called immobilizer system?

It communicates wirelessly via the reading coil in the lock with the transponder chip in the key. So, if you short-circuit it without the correct key being in the lock, the motor will immediately stop after starting. The petty criminal would have to do more than you (whatever that may be... I don't know and wouldn't write it down even if I did), but you have the correct key for the car. So, turn the ignition on and then short-circuit it...

Quote:

Trabi 601 Standard. Once, on my way to vocational school, the only ignition key I had broke off. (The door had a separate key).

The keys were, in fact, not of the best quality. At some point while driving, one of the keys fell out of the lock for my parents, but the car wasn't affected by it. The lock and key were so worn that you could simply pull the key out even when the engine was running...

With modern interior door locks, at least that shouldn't happen to you.

You could also use your idea with the switch here... just install a button that creates a short circuit. However, I don't know if that's legal... it probably won't make it much harder to steal, since the engine won't start without the key anyway.

Best regards,

Jan.

However, I don't know if that's legal... it probably won't make it much less likely to be stolen, because without the key, the engine won't start.

That's the thing. In Germany, which is groaning under the weight of regulation and over-regulation, there probably wouldn't be room for something like that anymore (with the Trabant in the wild east of the mid-90s, DIY projects were probably more tolerated).

Otherwise, I was thinking of bidding on an original 'Start Engine' button from a Starfighter or a MIG29 on eBay. My AKU would be a worthy successor for such a button, wouldn't it?

They communicate wirelessly via the reading coil at the lock with the transponder chip in the key.

Ah, thanks for the information. Yes, at the end of the key's internal track, there's a loop-shaped part that's encased in black plastic. That could be a reading coil or an antenna. However, I wasn't sure if that part is actually used in my Arosa.

hello
Holger.