Brake Pads: Retracting Calipers - How To?

Hello!

This weekend, I wanted to replace the rear brake pads on a Xsara HDi. So, I removed the caliper, took out the pads, and tried to push the cylinder back with a pipe wrench (as I have successfully done on many VAG vehicles before). However, the stupid brake cylinder wouldn't budge even a millimeter. Not even with the C-clamp .

The handbrake and foot brake were released, but it still didn't work . Do you perhaps have any idea if it's possible to loosen that stupid cylinder somehow? I can't replace a new one every time .

Brakes are Bosch, manufactured in 2002.

Best regards, Nebelwerfer.

Perhaps you need to turn them counterclockwise, like with VAG vehicles, instead of pushing them. Since I didn't have a "reset tool," I used a 10mm flexible wrench. It worked perfectly.

How do you mean 'screw it in'? Like a thread? I can feel a minimal amount of play when I move it back and forth, and there are also notches where I might be able to get a grip.

Yes, if it has an integrated handbrake, there will be a thread inside. Try turning it. There's also a special resetting tool for this purpose, available from VAG.

Yes, there's a lever sticking out from the back of the rubber cap, and the brake cable is connected to it. I'll try turning it in this week. Thanks for the quick help!

Oh yeah, it's possible that you've already damaged the thread with the clamp (bent or broken it). Did you perhaps hear a "crack" or "ping" or a similar sound?

Nebelwerfer_TDI wrote:

Hello! He tried to push the cylinder back using a water pump pliers (as I have successfully done with many VAG vehicles before).

"All VWs with rear disc brakes need to be adjusted, possibly not the very newest models, but if your Passat has disc brakes, it likely needs it. Can you tell me which VAG vehicles commonly have this issue with the rear brakes? The front brakes use different calipers without a handbrake mechanism or adjustment. These simpler calipers are only used where there are two separate systems in the rear, for example, in models where the handbrake is a separate drum brake."

Try to see if the reproduction still works; otherwise, you'll need new saddles, because individual parts are probably not available for it.

Okay, let's not panic.

Place the clamp in the center and insert the mentioned adjustable wrench into the slots. Then it gets a bit fiddly because you have to turn and tighten the clamp. After a minute of practice, you'll get the hang of it, and if you do this every 3 years, you don't need any special tools for it. The brake caliper will be similar to the one from VW. So, it's possible that you might also need to adjust the handbrake afterwards. Apparently, this is supposed to be done on every VW. I just did it recently on an A3, where the brake pads were completely worn down. After using the clamp and adjustable wrench method, I replaced them, and the handbrake still works perfectly.

Oh yeah, it's possible that you've already damaged the thread with the clamp (bent or broken). Did you perhaps hear a 'crack' or 'ping' or a similar sound?

No, thankfully it didn't - I work with feeling in situations like that .


Can you tell me which many VAG vehicles had this issue where it folded down?

'In the front, many people have already been successful; in the back, I've only had the opportunity to replace the brake pads on drum brakes so far...'

Place the clamp in the center and insert the mentioned adjustable wrench into the grooves.

It's probably going to be a bit of a hassle. The brake caliper only loosens slightly, and if you want to remove it completely, you have to disconnect the brake line. I can probably clamp something down, but I'm not sure if I'll still be able to use a wrench after that.

Does the one normally used for the tensioner pulley fit there?

So, it's possible that you might still need to adjust the handbrake even after that.

Where does it go? It must be placed somewhere further forward, because at the back, there's only the crimped end of the rope attached.

Nebelwerfer_TDI wrote:

Does the one normally used for the timing chain tensioner fit there?

I suspect it's too small (the one from a small Flex fits perfectly, and that one is too big for the tensioner).

Perhaps you'll get lucky and it will only require a slight turn. With some vehicles (like mine), the force applied by pressing the flex key (using your thumb) is often enough.

Thanks for your replies, I'll get back to you when I've tried it out.

Exactly, Wolfi . Or, you can ask a second person to press on it (e.g., with a hammer) while you use a special tool (e.g., a caliper) to turn the piston. Please pay attention to the dust boot of the piston (if you can reach it). If you just press without turning, something might get damaged, but it doesn't necessarily have to. You'll notice this if the rotor starts to rust at a certain brake pad thickness. In that case, the piston won't push any further. The 'guide pin' in the caliper is usually damaged from just pressing, and in the worst case, it can break. But it's not that far yet. You were careful . If you have grooves for a retraction tool, you can simply modify an old C-clamp and try it out . Or, you can drill holes and use screws with nuts (to secure them) and then try . Have fun.

You'll notice this when, starting with a certain thickness of brake pad, the disc begins to rust.

She already does that on the inside, but the original pads are still in place (I had to reinstall them again yesterday *grrrrrrrr* ).



But it's not that far. You were careful, .

Right, and the brakes are still working normally; I've gotten used to not using excessive force when doing things like this, because it's annoying when you slip, and then you can't work on it for a week (or longer) because the bandage gets in the way .

If you have slots for a reset tool, simply notch an old C-clamp and test it with that .

If I get the chance, I'll place a piece of flat metal under the clamp, and then attach the clamp to that. This will significantly reduce the risk of the clamp slipping.

Thank you for all your suggestions and tips!

Quote:

If I have the chance, I will place a piece of flat iron on top of the workpiece, and then clamp the vise onto that, which will significantly reduce the risk of it slipping.

@Everyone

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the Xsara, so I can't really contribute much here, but...

Are you absolutely sure that the pistons are installed in the same way as in VAG vehicles and others, or is it possible that they are adjusted, like in the Mazda 626 or similar models, using a mechanical mechanism with an Allen screw?

Since it says 'Bosch' on it, I assume it should work like this, and not like those brakes from East Asia.


EDIT: Okay, so I changed it yesterday, and it went in smoothly with just a twisting motion. The back of a small clamp proved to be a good tool for the job; it went in without needing to be pressed.

Thank you for your tips; otherwise, I probably would have installed new brake cylinders .