Removing the AUY engine's turbocharger from a Sharan?

Hello,

Can anyone help me with how to best remove the turbocharger from the 1.9 TDI PD with AUY engine? What needs to be removed? Upwards or downwards? Best regards

What year is the Sharan?

Hello,

Sharan is a 2001 model, and it's already the II model. It's also a 4 Motion, which makes the modification even more difficult because it has the angle gearbox right under the turbocharger! So, from below, it looks totally bad because of the additional angle gearbox! I think I'll probably have to remove the turbocharger from above. So, I'll remove the intake pipe and try to see if it's possible to remove it from the engine compartment. Question: Has anyone ever done this on a 4 MOTION? Please provide a little assistance. Thank you.

"Usually, this works quite well with the newer models. Work is done from the top and bottom, and it's then removed from the bottom. However, since you have a 4-Motion, this probably won't work. Also, removing the intake from the top won't be possible either." I think you'll probably also need to remove the plastic spray shield.

Here's my request:

www.sgaf.de

Hi,
If time permits, please take a photo of the intake duct for reference. Soot and AGR.
haithamina

Hi,

I removed the turbo today. It's a real pain to remove. The fact is, the right drive shaft and the all-wheel drive's differential have to come out, otherwise you can't get the turbocharger down. Also, the engine mount had to be lowered a bit. The whole problem is the tight space in the Sharan. I'll take some pictures tomorrow if I have time. It's also a pain to remove the intercooler. You have to remove the bumper and loosen the front crossmember a bit to get to the 4 screws. I think it will take the whole day to install. Replacing the oil feed line is also a fiddly job, as it's quite convoluted. I will report again when I have the turbo engaged. Best regards

*grübbl* Was ist mit dem Zustand nach dem Entfernen des Ansaugbrücke und der Spritzwand oben? When I had all-wheel drive, I haven't had to make any adjustments yet. Pühh

Hi,

So, without all-wheel drive, there's enough space to remove the turbo from below. You just need to remove the right drive shaft. Otherwise, nothing. On the other hand, with the 4 Motion, the differential for all-wheel drive is exactly underneath the turbo. Therefore, you have to remove that first, in order to then remove the turbo from below. I took a few pictures here:

Turbo, however, suffered greatly.

Yes, he did.
The turbocharger was only about 1.5 years old and had only 30,000 km on it. It was replaced at VW due to a faulty VTG (Variable Turbine Geometry) adjustment. I'm still amazed that it could fail again so soon. I was able to simply pull the shaft in the middle out of the defective turbocharger. That's strange. Maybe someone here knows about this situation and can explain what might be causing it? (Lack of oil supply,...........) Best regards,

Quote:

What could this be attributed to?

Wave failure due to excessive speed, defective wave bearing, or imbalance caused by ingested parts (unlikely).

Causes:
- Poor oil supply due to a clogged connection line
- Poor tuning
- Continuous Ösi-130km/h highway cruise control and dataset with little VTG movement leads to VTG locking (based on personal experience after moving and subsequent frequent trips on the Ösi highway).
- The VTG adjustment lever is heavily corroded, DO NOT use oil or grease for lubrication, but use copper paste.
- Improper Driving: Full load, then immediately stop. Always proceed calmly for the last kilometer to the parking of the vehicle, otherwise the turbine's wave bearing will be damaged. However, a few hundred meters of gentle driving allows the engine to cool down very quickly.
- VTG Verstelldose 'pops' and causes the charger to over-rotate frequently.

Best regards, Rainer

Listen, did you just cut through the oil line because you couldn't get the retaining nut off? You can see it in the first picture! Or am I wrong?

Hello,

I spoke with the owner again about the vehicle, and he reported that he had had a cheap type of "chiptuning" (basically, a plug-and-play device) installed in the vehicle. He had removed this approximately 10,000 km before it now failed, as the vehicle was constantly experiencing issues! This statement seems to increasingly point to the fact that all the problems were caused by the cheap "chip" (it was a box with a plug that was connected to the wiring harness at the pump, nozzle, and power supply on the engine block). If I see such plug-and-play devices, I could really get frustrated! Either you get a proper tuning, or you're better off just leaving it alone to avoid further problems! Definitely, I advised him never to use such cheap stuff again, if he wanted MORE performance. Best regards,


To Oil Supply Line:

The screw came loose, that's right! But since I had also installed a new inlet line anyway (in order to prevent the line from overheating), I simply broke it off, as it was much faster! But good to discover!

Box is getting too excited... High EGT and excessive soot due to insufficient air mass = engine failure sooner or later.

Best regards, Rainer

Thank you for your support!
Therefore, the problem is likely solved, and the cause is also identified.
Best regards, Luigi