Bosch injection pump 1.6 Td eco-diesel

Hello everyone.
I'm having a problem with my friend's car.
After a used engine was installed and various modifications were made, the engine only runs at idle speed.
Renovation as follows:
GOLF 2, older model, 1.6 turbodiesel engine, 70 horsepower --- large turbocharger.
New engine: 1.6 turbo diesel, 60 horsepower, eco-diesel - small turbocharger.
The large turbo was installed, everything went smoothly.
We kept the fuel injection pump from the environmentally friendly diesel engine - it started immediately and runs smoothly, BUT...
only when idling does it not accept gas

My question is: Can I open the top of the Bosch pump (where the throttle cable is attached) without completely disassembling it?
or is it even worth disassembling them?

I'm just thinking out loud here, and I suspect the cable connected to the throttle might be worn, but I'm open to being corrected if I'm wrong.
Thank you in advance for your help.

To convert environmental diesel into racing diesel, you need the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) with LDA (Lean Direct Injection) system from a racing diesel engine.

Well...
It shouldn't be a Porsche powered by heating oil.
"However, I almost have to leave the small pump installed because my friend is borrowing the larger one with LDA to use in his Jetta (which has an LLK) until he returns from military service and inherits his father's A3."
Despite that, the Golf was parked there because his wife had dented the Polo while cold-forming it.

Enjoy your meal! / Have a good lunch!

So, you put a 60 horsepower engine into a car that originally had a 70 horsepower diesel engine, and then you installed the ESP system from the 60 horsepower version?
Did the 60 horsepower engine previously work with that pump in the donor car?

You could have left the turbo on; driving with that smaller turbo is much smoother. You get full boost from around 2000 RPM, not just from 2800 RPM.
As long as you don't fully open the nozzle and want to achieve peak performance at over 4500 RPM, the smaller turbo is sufficient.

Does not accept gas in the LL (likely referring to a parking space).
So, the car starts, but when you press the accelerator, the engine doesn't rev up?
Does it only happen when accelerating with the pedal, or also when using the accelerator on the ESP (Electronic Stability Program)?
Have you changed anything on the pump?
Did you remove the throttle lever itself, or just detach and reattach the throttle cable?
Are the male and female threads reversed?
Vented?
...

Hi, Jockel.

Thank you for your sympathy/support.
To give you an overview.
Question:
1. Does not accept gas in the LL (likely referring to a logistics location).
"So, the car starts, but when you press the accelerator, the engine doesn't rev up?"
3. Does it only happen when accelerating with the pedal, or also when using the accelerator on the ESP (Electronic Stability Program)?
Have you changed anything on the pump?
Have you removed the throttle lever itself, or just disconnected and reconnected the throttle cable?
6. Are the internal and external screws reversed?
7. Is it properly vented?
Answer:
1. Correct - idling speed should be steady at 870-900 RPM, no more.
2. Japanese.
3. Adjust the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) when accelerating.
4. No.
Disconnect the fifth cable and reconnect it during engine mounting.
The fuel filter for the 6.NE-NE engine is being installed; the oil return line is mounted on the return side, eliminating any possibility of confusion.
7. Of course.

Question
Okay, so you put a 60 horsepower engine into a car that originally had a 70 horsepower diesel engine, and then you installed the ESP system from the 60 horsepower version?
Did the 60 horsepower engine previously work with that pump in the donor car?
Answer.
1. Engine and ESP from the 60 horsepower turbocharger version of the 70 horsepower model.
2. Unfortunately, I cannot answer that question - the engine was received in a disassembled state and only the turbocharger was replaced before installation.


Thank you for your replies and suggestions.
Sure, I'll keep you updated, but it might take some time because work comes first, and the car is currently at my friend's place.

Enjoy your meal! / Have a good lunch!

I didn't mean that the IN and OUT connectors were reversed, but rather the two hollow screws themselves. The OUT screw should also have "OUT" marked on it, along with a value like 0.55 or similar underneath.

You can also see it if you remove the screws; the "IN" side looks like a normal Allen screw, while the "OUT" side only has a tiny hole.

Does the pump properly supply fuel?
So, is there anything coming back from the return line, and if so, is it a lot or just a little?

How long was the pump, including the donor motor, in place?
Did the previous owner adjust anything?

When you accelerate manually, approximately two-thirds of the way through the pedal travel, a significantly greater amount of force is required (which unfortunately isn't easily noticeable if there are springs attached to the accelerator pedal).

Hi, Jockel.

Okay.
When I see my friend again this weekend, I'll look into it.
Regarding the screws: We didn't open the screws; we disconnected the cables/wires instead.
standing time - I think it had been there for a few days.
Spider webs in the intake hose of the turbocharger reinforce my opinion .