1.6 TDI: Adjust Power & Injection Timing

I bought a 1991 Passat as my winter car; it has a 1.6 liter diesel engine (SB).
This is the old 1.6 TDI engine with a manual transmission and 59 kW / 80 hp.

Since the condition of the timing belt is unknown, I'm going to replace it right away.

When I'm ready to start the process, I would like to adjust the 'Fördebeginn' setting. Is there a good guide available for that? It's been quite some time since I last did this.

What pressure setting (in mm) should I use for overtorque (oT)? Should it be 0.90 or 1.00? I won't be driving much on the road.

If I operate the engine at its maximum boost pressure and reach the soot limit, is the engine then 'thermally stable' under full load?

I may not be driving full throttle anymore, but I'm still interested!

Furthermore, I would be interested in knowing the maximum values for boost pressure and power that someone may have achieved with this engine over a sustained period.

Mercy!

The engine will never be fully "proofed" against running at full throttle.
0.95 to 1.00 is acceptable.
It can handle up to 110 horsepower.
An oil cooler is a good idea.

And please ensure that the lubricating liquid cooler (LLC) is still functioning properly. If it's clogged with dirt, leaking oil binds road dust, or if the air passages are damaged or missing, this reduces the effectiveness of the LLC and significantly shortens the engine's lifespan .

Förderbeginn: wenn du den OT des 1. Zylinders erreicht hast (Markierung auf Schwung), dann sollte der Förderkolben der Verteilerpumpe genau 1 mm Hub von seinem unteren Totpunkt gemacht haben. Dann hast du einen Förderbeginn von 1mm n. UTBitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Important: Set the dial gauge to zero as soon as the piston reaches its top dead center (TDC). To do this, rotate the motor backward from the TDC of the first cylinder.
First, set the dial indicator to zero, then rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until the "Top Dead Center" (TDC) mark on the flywheel aligns with the indicator. Finally, read the value from the dial indicator.

Ideally, you should turn the engine so that the lifted front left wheel is visible. This will allow you to see the dial gauge and the rotation of the wheel (provided you are tall enough, but anyone over 1.65 meters should be fine).
Setting: Adjust the pump to run against its intended direction = earlier, or with the intended direction = later.

2 screws: 1 located at the top, on the drive side of the pump; 1 located beneath the fuel injection lines, with a conical nut, size 15mm.
Two self-locking nuts, located behind the recesses in the pump drive wheel.

Don't forget any of them, otherwise the pump might vibrate, which you'll feel through the accelerator pedal.

Good luck!

Quote:

The engine will never be completely "full-throttle proof"

.

because it wasn't like that from the beginning.
Does the SB/RA (presumably referring to a specific person or group) like to consume head gaskets?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

dieselmartin wrote:

Does the SB/RA (Self-Balancing Robot Arm) like to eat its head gaskets, or what?

That's correct, but in 90% of cases, it's due to thermal overload.

"However, the RA/SB lasts significantly longer than a JR due to its liquid cooling system."

'Thank you!'
Marking on the ESP pulley?
And please make sure the lubricating liquid cooler (LLC) is still functioning properly. If it's clogged with dirt, leaking oil binds road dust, or if the air passages are damaged or missing, this reduces the effectiveness of the LLC and significantly shortens the lifespan of the engine .

Förderbeginn: wenn du den OT des 1. Zylinders erreicht hast (Markierung auf Schwung), dann sollte der Förderkolben der Verteilerpumpe genau 1 mm Hub von seinem unteren Totpunkt gemacht haben. Dann hast du einen Förderbeginn von 1mm n. UTBitte gib mir den deutschen Text, den du übersetzt haben möchtest.

Important: Set the dial gauge to zero as soon as the piston reaches its top dead center (TDC). To do this, rotate the motor backward from the TDC of the first cylinder.
First, set the dial indicator to zero, then rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation until the 'Top Dead Center' (TDC) mark on the flywheel aligns with the indicator. Finally, read the value from the dial indicator.

Ideally, you should turn the engine so that the lifted front left wheel is visible. This will allow you to see the dial gauge and the rotation of the wheel (provided you are tall enough, but anyone over 1.65 meters should be fine).
Setting: Adjust the pump to run against its intended direction = earlier, or with the intended direction = later.

2 screws: 1 located at the top, on the drive side of the pump; 1 located beneath the fuel injection lines, with a conical nut, size 15mm.
Two self-locking nuts, located behind the recesses in the pump drive wheel.

Don't forget any of them, otherwise the pump might vibrate, which you'll feel through the accelerator pedal.

Good luck!

Markings / Locking mechanisms:


Fuel injection pump: The locating pin ensures that the toothed wheel is securely mounted on a spring-loaded shaft, preventing it from rotating freely.

Nockenwelle: passender Flachstahl (ich glaube 4mm) oder Spezialwerkzeug, Ventildeckel muss ab. Keine Feder, kein Keil, sitzt nur auf Konus, hält durch Reibung. Schraube lockern, mit Splinttreiber/Durchschlag vom Konus schlagen, um den neuen ZR exakt einstellen zu können. ATorque: approximately 50 Nm.

Crankshaft: There's a mark located behind the rubber stopper at the top of the clutch bell. It can be difficult to find because it's usually hidden by debris and grime from clutch wear. The best approach is to paint the starter ring gear teeth immediately next to it with white paint; this will make it easier to locate later.

ok, thank you!



'Do it yourself - instead of shoddy work from a workshop.'