Disassembling ZMS: A Step-by-Step Guide

Hi,

Okay, the gearbox is out, and the dual-mass flywheel is still attached to the engine.

The ZMS (presumably referring to a clutch component) has been defective for approximately 60,000 km. The friction plate is now making contact with the flywheel.
roughly twisted and tightened.
The holes no longer aligned with the screws.

Using a hammer, you can rotate the friction plate in 1/10mm increments, but that doesn't seem like a very good approach for the motor.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to disassemble the ZMS?

Is it worthwhile to drill out the (6?) alunite deposits that are currently visible?

It would be great if someone could help!

Mmh, does anyone have an idea?

It seems like drilling it out won't help me...

"I would remove the engine and lubricate the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) with WD40, then leave everything as is. Of course, that's not an option without a second car. You could try drilling out the rivets; if it's broken, it's broken, and the worst that can happen is nothing changes."

The ZMS (presumably referring to a component with a damping mechanism) can only seize up if the grease has leaked out, the springs are broken, or something is jammed inside.

I also think that the crank mechanism is not happy with the "fäustel" variant.

"Rivets can be drilled out quite well. The disadvantage would be that there is likely still a considerable amount of tension on them. This could potentially cause the drill bit to get stuck and then break. In this case, the rivet heads could also be cut across with a thin flexible disc. Usually, they will still hold reasonably well, but they will break apart with a simple hammer blow. The small amount of force required usually does not pose a risk to any components."

Hi,

"In my engine (AFN from Golf 3), the inner part of the clutch disc, where the holes are, was only connected to the outer part by bridges. Only the outer part was blocked."
We cut away the supports, then it was very easy to rotate the part from the inside and unscrew the scrap metal.

Good luck.
dieter

Okay, I need to quickly type a response!

The old ZMS is out, and the new one is in.

Just drilling out the alunite, like this...

Die Alunieten sind aus Stahl und es bringt nix, man bekommt nur die Reibplatte runter. The rest.
is fixed.
Okay, so I've removed as much material as possible from the bridges between the screw holes, and then...
removed the "star" from the center.
After that, access to the screws was unrestricted.

Hello,

Quote:

The transmission is out, and the dual-mass flywheel is still attached to the engine.

What vehicle and engine were you dealing with? I'm currently considering whether it's more efficient to remove the engine or the transmission from an A6 4F. Unfortunately, it seems likely that I'll have to do one of those in the medium term, as there's already a noticeable jerk when shifting from drive to reverse, accompanied by rattling noises when the car is stopped.

Best regards, Rainer.

dieselschrauber wrote:

Hello, I'm currently considering whether it's more efficient to remove the engine or the transmission from an A6 4F. Unfortunately, it seems likely that one of them will need to be replaced in the medium term, as there's already a noticeable jerk when shifting from load to coast, accompanied by rattling noises when the car is stopped. Best regards, Rainer

To remove the gearbox, you need to lift the front of the engine and secure the support in a different position, otherwise it will tip forward.

@Rainer

Hi,
It's a Leon 1M1, essentially an A3, so it has a transversely mounted engine.

To be honest, a complete renovation isn't necessarily more work.

The engine is only attached to the exhaust and the right suspension.


I, however, had no way to do that...