Central locking door lock, driver's side

Hello,

I'm currently dealing with an issue with the driver's side power door lock.
When unlocking the driver's door, only the driver's door would open mechanically. The driver's side door light flickered briefly and then stopped working altogether.
When locking via the door switch, the entire system was locked. But on the driver's side, the central locking system opens automatically.

I then replaced the microswitch and tested its functionality by checking the contacts. Up until that point, it had been working correctly in both the open and closed positions. The old microswitch was almost completely worn out. So, that's when I was sure that the problem had actually been identified.

Unfortunately, the same error persists after the installation.
The central locking system (ZV) locks all doors except the driver's door when activated via the passenger door.
When the passenger door is opened, the interior lighting and both driver's door lights turn on.

Nothing is happening with the driver's side door.

There are also no error codes stored in the control unit.
The only thing is that the measurement displayed for the driver's side door is as follows:
- Feedback: Driver's side door, always working properly.
- Rotating switch for driver's door, always keeps the door closed.

Whether the door is open, closed, or unlocked.
Checked the cables at the door again, no visible cable breaks, removed and reinserted all the plugs.
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"No changes."

Okay, so the question now is how to narrow down the source of the error.
Can this be measured more easily via the plug?

If it were a Golf 4 or a Passat 3B, the lock wouldn't have this issue due to cold solder joints on the lock's circuit board. The door light is also activated by the lock latch switch. Since you are also experiencing these issues...

Whether it's similar to the Golf in some ways...

Autoservice wrote:

Would it be a Golf 4 or a Passat 3B,

Well, the part number is 3B1, and I think that's probably the same lock, which means the same errors could potentially occur.

In a peculiar way, the problem disappeared overnight (perhaps due to rain?). Everything is working as it should.

It makes me suspicious, and if it was indeed a cold solder joint, it's likely still there and the problem will reappear eventually.
Okay, I'll wait and see for now. I'm not really keen on taking the lock apart and disassembling it again. The only thing that could possibly motivate me to do this job would be the price of a new lock.