Oil proliferation in the ASZ. Incorporate PDEs and images (Solution)

Hello forum,
My ASZ (anterior spinal zone) is suffering from excessive oil production.
As a first attempt, I wanted to reseal the power distribution unit (PDU).
Only the seats in the headrest of the PDE don't look very reassuring.
There, you can see partially submerged ridges.
I'm just wondering if it's worth putting them back together again.
Please take a look at the pictures and tell me what you think.
Is the engine head damaged beyond repair, or is it worth trying to fix it with new gaskets?
Thank you. Best regards, Jörg.

1. Photo
They are located as I found them in the first two expanded PDEs. They extend across the surface of both seats in a semi-circular shape.
On the opposite sides, there is nothing to see.

"In the second photo, the PDE (photodiode), and on the opposing sides, the dark coating has been removed."

3. "Biting" or "Sharp" Poetry.

In the picture, I'm showing you an old pressure discharge valve (PDV) and then one that was installed for a week. It had run for about 400 km. Even with that short amount of use, you can already see some wear on the upper sealing ring. This one was defective, which is why it had to be removed. They often look like this when it's an 8-valve engine.
The ridges in the injector bore are also normal.
I would definitely try replacing the seals first.
"1417010997 is the part number for the seal set. It costs a fraction of what the dealership charges and is an original Bosch product."

Okay, thanks Steffen, that sounds good so far.
I'm not in the workshop right now, but I'll check later to see if the grooves are actually there where the seals should be. I mean the grooves in the aluminum, specifically in the cylinder head.
Probably not. I think they used steel on aluminum.
I need to smooth out the sharp edge, but how do I get in at the very bottom?
"With sandpaper? I don't want to damage the new seals. I have some 600 grit, but is that still too coarse?"
What grit should I use?
Best regards, Jörg.

one more question:
Do I need to readjust the pressure relief valves (PRVs) or bleed screws after sealing?
or can I skip that?
Best regards, Jörg.

Hi Jörg,
Only use sandpaper if there's a risk that the new sealing rings will tear during installation. Then, place a cloth in the hole. Make sure no sanding dust gets into the guide rail or the combustion chamber. Use the finest grit possible and only for carefully removing sharp edges from the worst areas.
You should always adjust the baseline setting whenever the injectors have been removed. Find the lowest point, screw the ball joint in until it's fully seated, then turn it back 180 degrees and tighten it with a torque of 30 Nm.
If you are replacing the tappets on top of the injector, it is advisable to also replace the ball screws that press down on them. You'll have to buy new expansion screws anyway, so it doesn't matter. If you haven't purchased anything yet, you can use gasket sets from Elring, part number 900.650, instead of those from Bosch. The Elring sets include the ball screw as well.
I've always liked to apply a little bit of Plastilube grease when installing the ball screw.
The trickiest part is removing the #6 screw from the tensioning clamp. Align the injectors beforehand according to the instructions.

Here's the story again about swapping valve lifters in pairs.
http://www.elring.de/fileadmin/Dateiablage_DE/TSI_VSI/2015/TSI01_2015_de.pdf

Hi Steffen,
Okay, I didn't know that. The valve springs I bought didn't come with any adjustment screws. However, I also left the old lifters in place.
because my first thought was that I wouldn't have to configure anything there. Well, it doesn't really matter anymore .
Last night, while removing the glow plug from cylinder 3, I noticed that the part was moving within its socket. It was only a slight movement, but you could see how the "oil ring" was changing shape along one edge.
Best regards, Jörg.

The engine runs perfectly fine, but it still smells and smokes just like before.
Then I assume he's still increasing the oil production.
Too bad, it didn't work with sealing it.
Regards,
Jörg.

Hello,

"If it smells and smokes, diesel fuel is entering the combustion chamber uncontrollably. I was also surprised by the completely destroyed lower sealing ring on the common rail injector (PD element): If the copper gasket to the combustion chamber is tight, no diesel fuel should be able to get past it."
"Has the oil change been done, and has the exhaust system been cleared of any blockages?"

Therefore, the question arises whether the pressure discharge (PD) elements were actually installed correctly (e.g., proper sealing to the combustion chamber, correct copper gasket, seating surfaces in good condition, PD units properly bolted), and whether the admittedly flimsy M6 screws used to secure the PD units are still holding or were tightened with the correct torque.

Best regards, Rainer.

Hello Rainer,
It also smelled and smoked before the seal was replaced.
Diesen zerstörten unteren Dichtring hatte ich dann nochmal am 3. Cylinder.
Der auf dem Bild war vom 1. Cylinder.
Maybe my brain is just fried, I have no idea.
At least, this machine has lasted 425,400 km with these rings.
(Everything inside is spotless, and I still stick to the 15,000-mile oil change interval, even with my new car.)

I haven't changed the oil yet; it only has 200 kilometers on it.
I drained some oil, approximately 0.3 liters. Now the oil level is exactly at the...
upper marking on the sounding rod.
I haven't fully tested the exhaust system yet. I've only driven around the block once, so maybe about 1-2 km.
"During the installation, I followed an Audi guide that I found online. The small screws are genuine Seat parts and are new. Torque: 12 Nm (I bought a small torque wrench specifically for this) + 270 degrees."
I believe and hope that I have done everything correctly in this regard.
Should I take a longer test drive again?
It's possible there might still be some excess oil somewhere. That's probably what you meant by "running the exhaust to clear it out," right?
Best regards, Jörg.

Quote:

Should I take another longer test drive? Könnte ja sein, dass sich noch irgendwo überschüssiges Öl befindet. Das meintest Du wahrschl. mit Auspuff frei fahren?

Yes, if the engine is running normally.

Rainer, you were right, and I've gained an experience.

I took a longer trip, as you suggested.
Just now, there was no more smoke or foul odor.
When he was warm, right there in the courtyard, absolutely nothing more.

I hope this continues.

It always ran without any problems, just like now. In the 3rd gear, it reached up to 4500 RPM without issues, and in the 4th gear, it also went up to 4000 RPM. That's enough for driving on country roads .

Now I'm cautiously optimistic. Let's see what the oil level does after I've driven a few more kilometers.

Thank you very much and best regards.
Jörg.

OK

Please check the idle speed control values in measurement block 13 of the engine control unit: Idle speed, engine at normal operating temperature, electrical consumers off.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, that won't work today, unfortunately. I need to do it again sometime this week.
I had already read out the data before the repair.
MWB 13 was completely unremarkable.
Best regards, Jörg.

jörg schmidt wrote:

Beim Einbau bin ich nach einer Audianleitung vorgegangen, die ich im Netz gefunden hatte.

That's another issue that isn't entirely clear. It concerns the alignment.
There are also PDEs that do not have a conical locking nut. Consequently, the dimensions specified in millimeters for the cylinder head edge will be different in those cases.
Did you follow the instructions? Are your PDEs (presumably referring to some kind of component) perfectly perpendicular to the tension wire?

Hi.
The dimensions matched the specifications in the Audi manual.
The tolerance of plus/minus 0.8 mm is quite significant when it comes to angular deviation. The spacer block also doesn't allow for much tolerance.
Otherwise, he wouldn't fit into the groove.
I couldn't find a 400mm caliper, so I measured as accurately as possible using a ruler. However, when viewed from above, even 1mm off-center is quite noticeable, and the clamping block, as mentioned, allowed very little room for adjustment.
I've now driven about 160 km since the overhaul, and so far it's running without any problems. I'm still not entirely sure about the oil level.
I'm taking it to work with me this week. It's 100 km every day, so I'll know more soon. Today, driving was actually a lot of fun again after a long time .
Best regards, Jörg.