Baseline adjustment of VP37 with drive wheel removed

Hello professionals,

I found a nearly new VP37 on eBay (with only 31,000 km on the odometer) for €299.
It sounds quite tempting, doesn't it?
However, I noticed in the picture that the pump drive wheel (which the timing chain runs on) has been removed. Is there a way to reattach the drive wheel using readily available tools and materials, allowing for the basic adjustment of the pump?

Thank you for your information.

Regards,
Alex.

Deleted as requested.

Hello Gustav!

Here's a picture of the pump's condition. Unfortunately, it's completely missing the mounting flange and the drive wheel. So, it will probably be difficult to restore the original settings, right? Can the Bosch service department help with this? If so, what is the cost of such an action?

The VP37 variant offered has the VW/AUDI part number 038 130 107 D B00, and according to my research, it is compatible with my AGR engine. Does anyone have any contradictory documents that prove the opposite?

What do you think of the pump? To buy or not to buy?

Regards,
Alex.

Hi Alex,

Actually, not much can go wrong. On his 'About Me' page, he states that if you're not satisfied, you'll get your money back. And he certainly has enough positive reviews . I think he works at a junkyard or something, if you look at his auctions.

I'm just wondering why no one has bid on it yet, even though the price is 200 €!

Hi,
David.

Deleted as requested.

Hello Gustav!

Quote:

As far as I can tell from the photo, this is a pump with a factory-set feedback (FB) configuration, because it has a flange on the drive shaft where the timing pulley is attached. If the flange hasn't been loosened, which is likely the case, there is no problem. Because for the initial alignment, the pump is secured using a locating pin through the flange and the pump housing, thereby correctly positioning the pump shaft.

Your words make me very optimistic. In fact, I managed to acquire this great piece today at a sensational price of 199 EUR, which is quite a bargain considering how much a new pump costs from Audi/VW. This one has only 31,000 km on the odometer, so it's practically brand new (hopefully).

I actually bought it as a backup pump, in case I ever have any problems with my current one.
Perhaps now would be a good time to experiment with biodiesel and vegetable oil, especially if you have a spare pump on hand.

Well, let's see what condition the item is really in when it arrives.


Okay, I have one more question: What does "FB-Grundeinstellung" mean, please? (My guess: Does it refer to the "basic setting" for the start of funding? )

Regards,
Alex.

Deleted as requested.

Hello everyone,

The pump arrived at my place today.
Externally, it looks very good, almost like new. The basic configuration appears to be unchanged, as the sealing wax is still present on the central nut.

However, I still have some concerns about its internal components. Has anyone ever tried to manually rotate the pump shaft with the pump fully extended? I could only rotate the shaft about 20 degrees until it reached a kind of locking point, and then nothing more would move without excessive force. Is that normal?
I need to add that the timing pulley is not attached. So, I only had the pump flange with a relatively small diameter. It seems to me that the resistance is quite significant.
Who can help me with their experiences on this? I haven't dared to use a wrench to twist the shaft yet.

Regards,
Alex.

donalexo wrote:

I could only rotate the wave about 20° until a kind of resting point, after which nothing more can be achieved without brute force. Is that normal?

Hi donalexo,

I believe that every quarter (or half ) rotation needs to be adjusted on the ESP wheel before proceeding, and this is normal.

Deleted as requested.

Hi Alex,

donalexo wrote:

... then nothing more can be achieved without resorting to force. ... It seems to me that the resistance is quite significant. ...

Now you can imagine what a timing belt does!

Deleted as requested.

Hello fellow mechanics,

Today, I gave my new VP37 a more thorough inspection.

Quote:

Because: every time the impeller comes into contact with the rollers of the roller ring, it initially requires a lot of force. Then, the impeller snaps onto the outgoing side of the rollers, and this often creates a twisting force that accelerates the pump shaft. Possibly, the ring wrench or spanner might hit your fingers if you're not careful. I want to say that the amount of force required when it rotates is very variable. If it were different, then there would be something wrong with the pump. Try it and report here whether it is as I described.

You were absolutely right, Gustav. The raised profile of the impeller causes brutal torque spikes. Today, I dared to rotate the pump several revolutions using a ring spanner. It's quite noticeable that the pump piston is pre-tensioned by a very stiff spring.

Quote:

now you can imagine what a timing belt does!

@Bertil: That's truly incredible. I actually wanted to extend my next ZR (water pump) replacement interval to 90,000 km, but considering the circumstances...

Quote:

The pump must be well-filled for proper storage. If diesel is used as the filling material, you should flush the pump approximately every 6-9 months. This is quite simple: Drive the pump with a powerful drill using an adapter, which is readily available in hardware stores, with a 6-sided connection for the drill chuck and a 4-sided connection for the socket, and a socket (19 mm?), rotating it as fast as the drill can manage.

What are some alternatives to diesel fuel? Is there a more suitable fluid that would eliminate the need for frequent flushing?
I'm afraid my drill won't be able to power the pump .

Quote:

If my memory serves me correctly, the hoses are even attached to the pump in the photo, which makes flushing much easier.

That is correct . What would you recommend on the printing side? Should I seal the connections of the pressure lines with plugs?

It's a good feeling to have a spare pump in the basement that's practically brand new. However, the worst part is the urge to tinker, which would make you want to completely disassemble the pump!

Thank you for your helpful tips!

Regards,
Alex.

P.S. Does anyone have the exact dimensions for a suitable pump alignment pin?

donalexo wrote:

P.S. Does anyone have the exact dimensions for a suitable pump alignment pin?

Hi Alex,

For TD/TDI engines (1z, AFN), the diameter should be 15.45 mm. However, it doesn't have to be that precise; a correctly sized socket will also work. The pin is intended to ensure that the number of teeth between the crankshaft and the ESP wheel is correct, meaning... In this area, inaccuracies in the nozzle have no significance because the fine-tuning is achieved through the initial feed rate setting.

Hi Alex,

donalexo wrote:

Bertil wrote: now you can imagine what a timing belt does! @Bertil: That's truly incredible. I actually wanted to extend my next ZR (water pump) replacement interval to 90,000 km, but considering the circumstances...

It's not quite that dramatic. For the PD and CR models, the situation is even worse, and they also have a 90,000 km (approximately 56,000 miles) service interval, with only a few exceptions.
90,000 km should not be a problem for a VP37 TDI engine.

Deleted as requested.