Brake pads are still in good condition, but the disc is worn and scored.

Hello,

With my Ibiza 6K ASV with now 68,000 km, I have the following problem:

All 4 brake discs around have each lost approximately 0.5..0.75 millimeters on each side - almost at the wear limit. However, the brake pads are hardly worn. The pads are rough and there are entire rings on the rear pads that are rust-brown, so it seems that the brake pads are not pressing against them.

The tires and discs are - as expected for the low mileage - the first ones.

I tried to solve the problem with the rusty rings by repeatedly applying the handbrake on the highway in 10-second intervals. - Didn't help anything besides warm wheels.

Could it be that the coatings become so glazed that they become harder than the glass itself, leading to a wear pattern? When I picked up my new car from Holland three years ago, I was actually forced to brake suddenly on the highway after driving for about 200 km due to an accident in front of me.

Can I simply re-machine the brake discs on a lathe and install new brake pads?
Despite this visual defect, the braking performance is perfectly acceptable, but somehow it still bothers me.
My braking/acceleration behavior is not digital. I mostly drive long distances (although not often) at around 120 km/h.


Best regards, Georg

Hi,

that the rear windows on the Ibi ASV are hardly used, is also the case for me. Sometimes they also make a little noise because of this, and presumably they last a long time. Rosten is not so good for me, thanks to the city's public transport.

I think the cause lies in the weight distribution. The 6K TDI has approximately 2/3 of the weight on the front axle due to the heavy machine and the long nose, which makes braking even more pronounced. Therefore, the proportion of rear windows is rather marginal – with corresponding consequences.

Best regards,

Jan

Hi,

Hmm, I disassembled one of the rear brake discs today.
The brake pads are still in good condition, but the rotor looks old, but not so old that I would replace it now.

Just the assembly...
I have checked the piston for free movement. It came out and went back in with _light_ pressure on the brake pedal. Then I briefly went away from the car, and when I returned 5 minutes later, the piston was 5mm out.
No drama, I thought, and grabbed a clamp (or what are those things called that you use to press wood together when gluing?) and applied pressure. No reaction. It was only with heavy machinery - a puller - that the piston moved, but only after opening the vent screw on the brake. That resulted in approximately 20ml of brake fluid leaking out for a travel of about 4mm.
But the piston also didn't want to go all the way in (so that I could get the brake caliper back on the brake pads), and the puller had already failed. Good morning, let's continue when the light is on...

Is it normal to have to apply _significant_ force to push the piston back? How can I do this more easily?

Tip? Tip? Tip?


Thank you, Georg.

Does the Ibiza (rear) not also reverse?

Greetings

Manuel

One should also not apply the brakes if there are no pads and discs in between.

Hi...

I just tried using the search function quickly...
Well... I guess I'll have to try a little something. Can someone explain this in more detail?
I have only replaced the brake pads on my old car, a Nissan Sunny, so far. It was done with a little pressure and a clamp.
Okay. It seems like I have to pay the price again. Does it ever stop?


How exactly does the reversing work? I might be able to make a special tool myself, with the help of a friend who is a bit more technically skilled.

Hello, there are two triangular grooves on the piston, so you basically need something to match them, where you attach a used 1/2 inch nut (in the middle).
Now you can use a wrench and extension to turn (clockwise) the piston.
Additionally, you must push the piston back.

Hi,
I guess you've probably forgotten about turning it back. The brake piston has a threaded groove, with its counterpart located in the brake caliper.
If you really go in with force, you'll damage the "thread," and without a new brake caliper, it's usually not enough...

And if the brake discs are really close to the wear limit, it is more advisable to install new ones, rather than having them turned.

"Ich bin zwar auch ein Verfechter des Selbstschraubens (aufgrund meiner eigenen Erfahrungen mit vielen Werkstätten), aber es ist wahrscheinlich besser, wenn man sich von Dingen, von denen man keine Ahnung hat, fernhält, oder sich vorher informiert." The apparent savings then either disappear when the professional carries out the subsequent repair, or, worse, you suddenly find yourself driving a car without proper brakes....

Have fun disassembling the brake caliper

Greetings

Olli

Rewind:
This mechanism is installed because it also affects the rear brake discs, due to the handbrake. Presumably, you have unfortunately damaged the mechanism by pressing it. One just has to know. However, this does not mean that you should not do it yourself, as olli says. That's where a book like "so mache ich es selber" (or similar) can be helpful.

You might even be able to build the tool yourself. I borrowed it once, and it was a piece of cake to push and turn the pistons back. I also tried using a clamp and turning it with a pipe wrench at the same time, but that didn't work well. You then need a fitting for the brake piston, as Mersente described. However, I would use a threaded rod and then support it with a nut and washer on the brake caliper. Then you can simultaneously rotate and press.

Regarding the brake discs: On the Golf IV, there is also a ring remaining on the outer edge of the brake disc that is not worn away by the pads - perhaps a design flaw? In any case, the TÜV (German technical inspection authority) even pointed this out to me. But what should one do in this case? Replace the discs annually. I tried to make the ring slightly smaller and remove loose rust, etc. If you have a lathe, all the better.
I have left the discs in place, because you can never get the same quality as the original equipment again (replacement parts tend to wear out or warp more quickly). Therefore, they only appear when they are truly thin.

I had a similar situation with my Punto. I also had a lot of loose rust on the ring, but it didn't affect the passing of the TÜV (German vehicle inspection). After all, it didn't interfere with the function of the brakes. This inspector would have to find fault with every 4-cylinder Golf that doesn't have new brakes.

Hello,

With a slight turn and gentle pressure using a clamp, it worked out in the end.
It seems I haven't actually destroyed the mechanism. Spent a few euros in the coffee break area on a brake testing stand - looks very good.

Once again, thank you to everyone who was so kind and wrote quickly!

Best regards,
Georg