NW Position Guide: Thank You!

Dear DIY enthusiasts,

With your help and combined expertise, I think I've finally found the performance issue I've been searching for, and I can't thank you enough!

My Bora had been experiencing a significant power deficiency for some time, amounting to approximately 0.8 seconds.
too much in the Ulf-style drag calculator (8.2 seconds for a calculated value of 7.65, considering my total weight of 1500 kg).

Thanks to your precise instructions, Ulf, I was able to measure the northwest position myself and provide the corresponding information.
After complaining to the mechanic, I got the car back with an improved neutral setting, however...
Still missing 0.5 seconds in the data recording (and still showing a significantly delayed north-west position according to my latest measurements).

Yesterday, I finally got around to using the new torque wrench I bought from Dremotec (made by Gedore).
Now, when initially feeling for the northwest hole, the timing mark on the coupling side is already visible, and once the centering tool (6mm drill bit) is properly inserted, the mark on the coupling side aligns precisely with the top dead center (OT) position.

The modification resulted in a 0.5-second improvement in lap time (although it involved temporarily switching from 205mm summer tires to 195mm winter tires).
A test of the vehicle's speed is still pending; I hope to be able to complete it during my upcoming vacation trip near the 'German Corner' – doing so in Austria always involves an unpleasant risk.

There's still a certain amount of residual roughness above 3500 RPM, but subjectively, I believe the Bora performs at least as well as it did when new.

@Ulf
I would also like to contribute something in the form of feedback regarding your expert article https://community.dieselschrauber.org/en/viewtopic.php?t=5408&highlight=steuerzeiten+pdelemente.
who helped me tremendously.

With the exception of two minor things, the article passed the ultimate 'dummy user' test (namely, me).
1) How do I interpret my northwest (NW) orientation setting within its possible adjustment range?
2) What is the safest way to rotate the crankshaft (without using a crank pulley holder), and how far should I rotate it?

Therefore, I would like to offer two suggestions for improvement:
1) Initially, I didn't understand which direction to rotate the Northwest wheel to achieve a previous or later position.
If the northwest adjustment screws are located in the left corner of your adjustment range (adjustment slot), then the adjustment range is...
On his late attack, they are on the right side; then, for the early attack, they will be there.

2) With gentle force applied to the central screw on the northwest side, the northwest corner wouldn't turn. I was also afraid of using more 'force.'
tightening the central screw instead of turning the adjustment knob, or that the adjustment knob slips too far away from its zero position.
Here's how I managed to do it:
Mark the current position of the clamping screw with a pencil line.
Secure the NW (Network Connector) with the drill bit in the 6mm long slot, with the clamping screws open.
Rotate the pulley while lifting the front wheel (6th gear engaged, carefully rotate the front wheel backward so that the counterclockwise clamping screws can be turned forward).
The difference between the new (OT) and the previous, late NW position (OT - brand at the bottom edge of the...
(regarding the viewing hole on the gearbox side) was just a thought from someone – hardly more than the thickness of a pencil lead of displacement at the clamping screw position!

While adjusting and tightening, the 'OT' mark on the gearbox side must be facing 'early'; otherwise, the correct tension of the timing belt will not be achieved.
Only after tightening and fully rotating the motor can you tell, when checking the northwest (NW) position again, whether you have correctly 'estimated' the adjustment.

best regards
Herwig.

herwigw wrote:

Thanks to your help and your collective expertise, I think I have finally found the performance bottleneck I've been searching for, and I can't thank you enough.

This is indeed encouraging feedback that motivates us to continue .

Quote:

My attempt at explanation: If the northwest terminal screws are located in the left corner of your adjustment range (adjustment slot), then the adjustment range is... On his late attack, they are on the right side, then on the early attack.

Okay, I will add a corresponding note to the article.

Quote:

The difference between the new (OT) and the previous, late NW position (OT - mark at the bottom edge of the transmission-side inspection hole) was just a slight shift - barely the thickness of a pencil lead in the clamping screw position!

And that's where it becomes problematic, in my opinion, in terms of efficient work.
It is likely that transmitting such a small movement, achieved by rotating the wheel within the "play range" of the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) and transmission, with sufficient accuracy to the engine is usually – if at all – only possible after many attempts and/or with a great deal of luck.

Therefore, I rotated my nozzle (NW) around the central screw to the correct position, which was relatively easy compared to the tightening torque of the central screw.

Only when attempting to rotate the nut and reaching the tightening torque range should one fear over-tightening or loosening the screw.
Anyone who doesn't trust their adjustable wrench can, of course, use a proper one. By the way, you could have also tried it out before the wheel change .

I'm trying to figure out how I can incorporate this into the article without making it too overwhelming.

And that's where it becomes problematic, in my opinion, in terms of efficient work.
Translating such a small movement by rotating the wheel within the 'play range' of the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) and transmission, with sufficient accuracy to transfer it to the engine, is likely only possible after many attempts and/or with a great deal of luck.

You're right, Ulf, that my method probably requires some luck, because it really took a while.
I managed to hit it on the second try, which was a relief.


Therefore, I rotated my workpiece using the central screw to the correct position, which was relatively easy compared to the tightening torque of the central screw.

Only when attempting to rotate the nut and reaching the tightening torque range should one fear over-tightening or loosening the screw.
Anyone who doesn't trust their adjustable wrench can, of course, use a proper one. By the way, you could have also tried it out before the wheel action .

I'm thinking about how I can incorporate this into the technical article without overloading it completely.

Hmm... you're probably right, that would have definitely been safe .