Car Won't Start? Troubleshooting Part 2

Hello,
So, I took my car to the workshop today, and it only started with a lot of effort!

On the way to the workshop, the following happened:
'When I tried to overtake a truck, I downshifted. But when I gave it gas, the car only rolled; it didn't accelerate! And there was a huge cloud of black smoke coming from the back!'
'If I slowly press the accelerator, it starts running again. In third gear, I can drive at 50-60 km/h. If I take my foot off the gas pedal and let the car roll a bit, then press the accelerator again, the same thing happens, but now there's black smoke. The same thing also occurs in fourth gear at 80-90 km/h.'

Error still not found!

First, they read the error codes again, but this time there were no notes or records of anything.
2. The reading well does not detect any errors either.
3. Glow plugs; power is supplied to each wire.
4. Compression check is complete and within acceptable limits.
Cylinder 1 = 25 bar.
* Cylinder pressure: 24 bar
* Cylinder pressure: 3 = 25 bar.
* Cylinder pressure: 4 = 22 bar
5. It's not a problem with the LMM either; I even installed a new one to test it, but that didn't help either!
6. When idling, the car revs up normally as if nothing were wrong.

What else could it be? Perhaps the pump or the injectors?
Could the timing issue be related to the timing belt?

I was told by the workshop that I would have to leave it there, but it's going to be expensive from the start!

Please provide more advice!

hi,

Why a new thread? But your performance loss has nothing to do with the starting behavior.

What recommendations have you checked so far, and what actions have you taken to address the problem of rust or power loss? There's a helpful tool called 'search' available; don't be afraid to use it – it won't bite!

Hello, sorry, I didn't mean to start a new thread. Is there any way I can move this to the old one? I just added 'part 2' to the title; could that have created a new thread? It won't happen again, I promise! I didn't realize it would do that, I was just searching and couldn't find what I needed.

'So, the mechanic said that the underlying cause is likely the same for both issues: the engine not starting and the loss of power. He couldn't find any error codes in the system's memory that would explain it, because if there were any stored errors, they should reappear when he scans the system again, but they don't.'
The workshop completed steps 1 through 6 today.

I'm reading about a similar issue here – a problem related to the crankshaft bolt.
I'll check it out tomorrow right away.

Hello,

Galaxy 90hp TDI: Common rail (CR) or pump-injector (PD)? I would approach Ford workshops that diagnose VW diesels with appropriate caution.
Year of manufacture and mileage?

Have you ever had the timing belt replaced, and if so, by whom?

Best regards,
Christian.

Hi,

I find the troubleshooting process at your workshop a bit strange.

1.) Reading the error memory is okay.
2.) Checking the reading coil: How exactly did they do that? Why was it checked? Does it even make sense?
3.) Power on every wire? That's nonsense! A spark plug can still be faulty, and then nothing will glow, even if there are 2 x 12V in the circuit. This contradicts: '...what the workshop said, that the fault has the same cause as the engine not starting and the loss of power...' You won't notice a bad spark plug while driving.
Regarding point 4), I cannot assess what they had in mind exactly.
5.) Did you see that they installed a different one for testing purposes? Was it definitely new, or had it perhaps been used somewhere before? Do you have the old part?
6.) The amount of fuel injected at idle and under load are two completely different things.

Suggestion: Ask the workshop how faulty spark plugs could cause problems during an engine overhaul. Depending on their answer, either change workshops or investigate the issue yourself.
'I mean, there are tons of threads in this forum with similar problems. (At least when it comes to Russians and power loss.) I would read through them all (even though that's a lot of work), make notes on a piece of paper as I go, and then systematically check each point on the list (starting with the easiest ones). I would start by using VAG-COM and checking the mass airflow sensor (comparing target and actual values, as well as boost pressure), even if the workshop claims it's fine.'

The workshop's statement, 'The workshop said I would have to leave it there, but that it wouldn't be cheap from the start,' sounds like they know exactly a) what's wrong and b) how to make money from it.

Regards,
Sure, here is the translation of the text from German to English:

'Micha'

Sure, here's the translation:

**Type:** Text
**MKB:** N/A (Not applicable)

"You could always include the car type and engine code as an attachment, like you do. Otherwise, I agree with what Bee wrote in many points. Also, you don't need to change the thread title; we can see when you post something new, and it makes it clearer which problem you're dealing with. If you're having major issues with your car, this is definitely the right place to be. However, I would seriously suggest buying a VAG Com version with a diagnostic adapter from Rainer. It might seem like a lot of money at first glance, but then you won't have to take your car to a workshop (especially since a Galaxy Diesel probably wouldn't be well taken care of at Ford), and you can better describe the problems, so we can help you more effectively."
Because the diagnosis from your workshop seems rather unprofessional...

Hello DIY enthusiasts,
Okay, I've solved the problem now. I found a lot of helpful things during my search that worked really well for me these past few days!
'Thank you, MatthiasTDI96. I will also get a diagnostic connector. After reading some things here and on eBay, I certainly won't be bidding on anything there!'

Regarding the problem:
'After purchasing the car, the immobilizer malfunctioned. I took it to a VW dealer for repairs, which cost €100 and fixed the issue temporarily. However, the problem reappeared. Using information from these websites, I quickly ordered a repair manual and decided to fix it myself. I started by replacing the crankshaft pulley and bolt, then replaced the timing belt and checked its alignment. The error still persisted! Next, I bought four new fuel injectors from eBay, suspecting a problem with the needle lift valve (from an AFN engine), but that wasn't the issue either. Then, I found a pump for sale on an auction site advertised as 'new without warranty' – a risky purchase. After receiving it, I installed it, and while it didn't work perfectly, it was definitely better than before.'
I went to a Bosch workshop and took the old pump with me. The mechanic immediately said that it was defective because there was too much play in the shaft, which was also visible.
I took a quick look at the engine (and I must say, the mechanic was very nice). He then replaced the sensor (or whatever that part is called – please correct me if I'm wrong) on the new pump and adjusted the car using his diagnostic computer. Based on my calculations, I was allowed to leave the old pump in place!

Now it drives really great, and I'm going to start thinking about my plans for modifications/tuning!

Greetings and best regards to those who helped me, thank you very much.
Your little baby.

Let's start the search.