OM 605.960 2,5 L 5 Zylinder Turbo 20 Ventiler marinesieren | Posts 128+

Congratulations!

I'm amazed that the funding process has gone so smoothly from the very beginning.
that it at least started.
But I can easily imagine that filing too early...
The start of the subsidy period can be traced back to...
I'm familiar with some OM605 engines, and they all have hydraulic lifters that don't make any clacking noises.
It's also possible that they need to be refilled after being idle for so long.

The leaky thermostat housing is likely due to a slipped O-ring rather than the age of the seal.
And please leave the 80-degree thermostat in place. It provides excellent cooling thanks to the seawater.
"To ensure optimal performance and prevent damage, it's important to maintain a stable temperature of 80 degrees Celsius. And it would also be able to withstand higher temperatures when running at full throttle. My Mercedes cars also tend to run hot on the highway in the summer."
Up to 100 degrees Celsius and they are all still running. The important thing is to let them run continuously.
However, what would contribute to thermal stability is a cold-water cooled oil cooler. The standard cooler is "cooled" with water at 80 degrees Celsius.
However, it would then need to be fitted with a thermostat (for the oil cooler).

And as I've mentioned before, be sure to check the fuel system for leaks, for example by applying a controlled vacuum. The "Gardenas" (quick-connect fittings) tend to suck in air. That's definitely not fun out at sea.
The best way to replace the connectors is with flexible hoses and clamps.

Tagessuppe wrote:

Congratulations! I'm amazed that the funding process has gone so smoothly from the very beginning. that it at least started. But I can easily imagine that filing too early... The start of the subsidy period can be traced back to... I'm familiar with some OM605 engines, and they all have hydraulic lifters that don't make any clacking noises. It's also possible that they need to be refilled after being idle for so long.

Thank you for the response.
Do you have any tips on how I can check and adjust the fuel injection start without using that Mercedes diagnostic tool?

Tagessuppe wrote:

Congratulations! The leaky thermostat housing is likely due to a slipped O-ring rather than the age of the seal.

I don't actually think so. This O-ring has a groove and is fitted onto the thermostat, so it shouldn't be able to slip out of place.

The start of fuel injection can be checked statically. This requires either a cut-off fuel injector line or a specially manufactured part from Mercedes-Benz that replaces the fuel line for the first cylinder. Slowly turn the engine until fuel starts to leak out.
http://www.kerzendorf.net/martin/mercedes/fbeginn.htm
This is well explained on this page.
I would adjust your engine's timing by 1-2 degrees earlier than the factory specification, because...
This engine is equipped with an ARF (Advanced Regeneration Filter) system and features technology to improve NOx emissions.
The start of the boost function was delayed, which negatively impacts fuel consumption and performance. Additionally, over time, the timing chain stretches, causing the boost to be initiated later.

I skimmed through the page.

"Shouldn't I be able to measure the entire opening with a dial gauge, where this bolt goes in to secure the pump? If I use the gauge to measure when the highest point of the pin is reached, wouldn't that also determine the timing of the ice ejection?"

Hmm... It actually sounds logical that this should work as well.
You would then need to remove the check valve on the ESP and use a thin gauge to measure the displacement of the pump plunger.
However, the start of labor is measured, not the onset of active labor.

Tagessuppe wrote:

Hmm... It actually sounds logical that this should work as well. You would then need to remove the check valve on the ESP and use a thin gauge to measure the displacement of the pump piston. However, one measures the beginning of the contraction, not the peak.

"We seem to have misunderstood each other," she said, pointing to the sealing screw located in the lower right corner of the pump.

Bolt, the third image from the bottom, is used to secure the pump in place.
We're also going to screw the original Mercedes-Benz tool for measuring the injection point into this bore.

I'm just getting back to you now because I've been a bit stressed lately.
Bringing the boat back from Berlin to Hanover, and very busy with work.
In addition to that, I'm not satisfied with the initial test runs.
And on top of that, there have been some more minor setbacks.
After the first run with the turbocharger, I noticed some play in the shaft of the impeller blades.
It hadn't really occurred to me before.
I've been running the engine without turbocharger boost so far.
The turbo was powered only by the exhaust gases and simply blew the intake air into the open air.
At 2000 revolutions per minute, it already starts blowing quite strongly.
But my main problem is the engine misfire at idle and up to about 2000 RPM.
I took the fuel injection pump from an OM 605911 engine.
It's the same engine as my OM605960, but it's a naturally aspirated diesel.
The mechanical ESP from the OM605911 engine was adjusted to match the values of the electronic ESP. However, I don't have the mass airflow sensor or the other sensors that controlled the electronic ESP.
It's possible that I still need to make some adjustments to the pump.
After the initial test run, I borrowed a measuring device with two LEDs from Mercedes to adjust the injection timing.
The pump was initially set to 8 degrees before top dead center (TDC), and I have now adjusted it to 13 degrees before TDC.
The hammering has continued.
I then used the "screwdriver to the ear" method.
It's like trying to pinpoint the source of a bearing failure.
After that, I would say the next most common issue is related to the fuel injectors.
Because that's where the noises are loudest.
The pump has a standard vacuum stop valve.
A vacuum diaphragm that increases the idle speed by approximately 300 RPM during cold starts.
It is not connected to the vacuum circuit.
Then there's also the Alda container.
The version with the naturally aspirated diesel engine has a connection on the underside.
Above is a cap under which there is an adjustment screw.
I didn't connect the connector on the bottom; it's currently disconnected.

I haven't figured it out yet either.
"I need to know if and where this connector is located on the OM 605.911 engine."

Okay, now I'm hoping to get some good advice from you all.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank the company Deutschman in Neustadt once again.
And to the diesel truck salesman at the car dealership.
The Mercedes truck driver came by today and said everything is okay.
"I was working on this today, and I paid close attention to the RPMs. Up to 1600 revolutions is normal. It's similar to what you see in a 602.911 with the 2-liter engine from the 190 series."
He says that the four-valve engine even sounds a bit louder than the two-valve engine.
And I thought it would be exactly the opposite.
After that, I installed the flywheel from the 2-liter diesel engine and connected the clutch to the Z-drive.
After that, I created a temporary connection from the turbocharger to the intake manifold.
However, when running without a load, I don't see any boost pressure being displayed.
I revved the engine up to 3500 RPM.
Is that correct?

And here are a few more pictures.
Oil filter with oil pressure sensor and oil temperature sensor.
Turbocharger with modified V-band flange.
Flywheel for a 2-liter diesel engine, with adapter and clutch for connecting to a Z-drive.
A picture of the test run with the turbo temporarily connected to the intake manifold.

Hi,

Quote:

However, when running without a load, I don't see any boost pressure being displayed. I revved the engine up to 3500 RPM. Is that correct?

It depends on how accurate your pressure gauge is. On my digital display, I can see that the boost pressure increases slightly even when the engine is idling and you suddenly press the accelerator, but not by much. This is because there isn't a lot of exhaust gas to drive the turbine, and also, there's no reason for the turbocharger control system (MSG) to increase the boost pressure. You can really only test it properly under load.

You might be able to bypass the control system, but even then, there won't be nearly enough exhaust fumes for you to see anything significant.

Best regards,

January.

Jan6K wrote:

Hi, Quote: However, when running without a load, I don't see any boost pressure being displayed. I revved the engine up to 3500 RPM. Is that correct? It depends on how accurate your pressure gauge is. On my digital display, I can see that the boost pressure increases slightly even when the engine is idling and you suddenly press the accelerator, but not by much. This is because there isn't a lot of exhaust gas to drive the turbine, and also, there's no reason for the turbocharger control system (MSG) to increase the boost pressure. You can really only test it properly under load. You might be able to bypass the control system, but even then, there won't be nearly enough exhaust fumes for you to see anything significant. Best regards, Jan

.
Hello Jan,
Thank you for the response.
I only have a simple instrument that measures the pressure in an analog way.
The pressure is applied directly to the instrument.
Display range: -1 to .5.
I don't have a controller.
It's actually based on something very simple.
Mechanical series ESP (Electronic Spark Advance) with an Alda sensor, which is designed to increase the injection volume under pressure.
Otherwise, there are no standard units.

wolfgang b. wrote:

Mechanical series ESP (Electronic Spark Advance) with an Alda sensor, which is designed to increase the injection volume under pressure. Otherwise, there are no standard units.

You wrote that you removed the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) from the naturally aspirated engine. In this case, the ALDA (Absolute Load Pressure Adjustment) will not function as a load pressure enrichment system, but rather as a load pressure reduction system. A naturally aspirated engine doesn't have any boost pressure. Therefore, in naturally aspirated engines, the ALDA is used to reduce fuel injection where there is less air pressure due to altitude. It might be possible to adapt and adjust this ALDA for use with a turbocharger. However, I would disable the ALDA and adjust the fuel injection amount to match the desired engine power output. With a ship's diesel engine, you will likely only produce a puff of black smoke when giving it full throttle to get up on plane. After that, it (hopefully) will have enough boost pressure to burn cleanly. Disabling the ALDA also has the advantage that you can inject more fuel before reaching the boost pressure threshold, which helps the turbocharger spool up and allows for faster boost build-up.
And another thing about boost pressure. In my Mercedes, at 3500 RPM during acceleration while driving, I'm already seeing 0.3 bar of boost. That should also be achievable when idling.

Hello Wolfgang,
Does the turbocharger you installed actually have a boost pressure control system?
Your turbocharger looks suspiciously like the water-cooled KKK 26 turbocharger.
-- This turbocharger does not have a boost pressure control system. --

This turbocharger is used in, among other things, the VOLVO PENTA marine engines. Due to insufficient boost pressure in the lower RPM range, it is sometimes also used with an additional supercharger. These engines are then called VOLVO PENTA KAD....
The KKK 26 turbocharger spins, but only produces full boost pressure when the engine is running at full throttle. Therefore, the boost pressure increases almost linearly with the exhaust gas volume (and thus, the engine speed). More exhaust gas means more boost pressure.
If it's about this turbocharger, then there isn't much boost pressure to measure.
A comparison with today's turbochargers from the passenger car sector is not possible here.

tdi on water wrote:

wolfgang b. wrote: Jan6K wrote: Hi, Quote: However, when running without a load, I don't see any boost pressure being displayed. I revved the engine up to 3500 RPM. Is that correct? It depends on how accurate your pressure gauge is. On my digital display, I can see that the boost pressure increases slightly even when the engine is idling and you suddenly press the accelerator, but not by much. This is because there isn't a lot of exhaust gas to drive the turbine, and also, there's no reason for the turbocharger control system (MSG) to increase the boost pressure. You can really only test it properly under load. You might be able to bypass the control system, but even then, there won't be nearly enough exhaust fumes for you to see anything significant. Best regards, Jan . Hello Wolfgang, Does the turbocharger you installed actually have a boost pressure control system? Your turbocharger looks suspiciously like the water-cooled KKK 26 turbocharger. -- This turbocharger does not have a boost pressure control system. -- This turbocharger is used in, among other things, the VOLVO PENTA marine engines. Due to insufficient boost pressure in the lower RPM range, it is sometimes also used with an additional supercharger. These engines are then called VOLVO PENTA KAD.... The KKK 26 turbocharger spins, but only produces full boost pressure when the engine is running at full throttle. Therefore, the boost pressure increases almost linearly with the exhaust gas volume (and thus, the engine speed). More exhaust gas means more boost pressure. If it's about this turbocharger, then there isn't much boost pressure to measure. A comparison with today's turbochargers from the passenger car sector is not possible here.

It's a KK26 gearbox from an OM 352 engine.

Just a heads-up: the coolant hose clamp for the manifold is almost finished.
I still need to adjust the exhaust.
Then it's time for the installation.
The OM 601 has already been removed/taken out.

I can only offer you one piece of advice from the automotive industry here:
Do not release the turbocharger without any back pressure (boost pressure), otherwise it will over-rev because it won't be braked.
In the passenger car sector, even a relatively large leak in the turbocharger's boost pressure system can be life-threatening for the turbocharger.
"Respect for your project!!"

You're welcome.