Leistungsverlust und keiner weiß weiter | Posts 16+

Hi,

I just tested that in 6th gear. It shows between 14 and 17 liters at 2000-2500 rpm. I think the 17 liters are due to the chip tuning, because before the tuning, it was around 15 liters at full throttle on the highway in 6th gear, and after the tuning, it's around 17 liters.

Is it possible that only a portion of the software in the engine control unit was overwritten during the timing belt replacement? Because the chip tuning is definitely not completely gone; I can tell by things like the top speed, for example.

Regarding the issue with the fluctuating RPM when starting, someone just suggested to me that the dual-mass flywheel might be faulty.

mecky wrote:

I just tested that with the 6th gear. It shows between 14 and 17 liters at 2000-2500 rpm. I believe the 17 liters are due to the chip tuning, because before the tuning, it was around 15 liters when driving at full throttle on the highway in 6th gear, and after the tuning, it's around 17 liters.

So, it seems that the full amount is being injected (which is also indicated by the fuel gauges / MFA), and yet the car isn't performing as it should .
Then a diagnostic test is unlikely to reveal anything useful, as the cause lies elsewhere... for example, a faulty catalytic converter or significantly incorrect valve timing.
Is there a slight tendency for soot formation when running at full throttle (a common issue with tuning)?

Quote:

Is it possible that only a portion of the software in the engine control unit was overwritten during the timing belt replacement?

No, when flashing, the entire dataset is always rewritten.

Quote:

Because chip tuning is definitely not completely gone; I can see and notice this, for example, in the top speed.

Okay, so how fast does it actually go (without any factors like going downhill, tailwind, or inaccurate speedometer readings, etc.)?
Or, in what situations is performance lacking?

Quote:

Regarding the issue with the speed fluctuation when starting, someone just suggested to me that the dual-mass flywheel might be broken.

I can hardly imagine that as the cause...

I recently had my NW (presumably referring to a medical condition) checked again, but it didn't really improve as a result.

The (typically associated with tuning) slight tendency to produce soot is definitely noticeable when driving at full throttle. Sometimes I feel guilty about how much junk I'm actually releasing into the environment.

"The car's speedometer reads 230 km/h now, but before the tuning, it was 220 km/h. Also, above 3000 rpm, there wasn't much power anymore, so I can already tell that the tuning might not have been properly applied. I can't pinpoint exactly when the lack of power occurs. It feels like it's always there, but sometimes there are brief moments where it pulls well again, although that feeling often disappears when you release the gas and then press it again. I've already paid attention to outside temperatures, but I haven't really found a connection."

mecky wrote:

I can't directly say when the power is lacking. Actually, it's always missing, but there are short moments where it feels good again, but then, when you release the gas and accelerate again, it often disappears.

OK . . . dann mache in nächster Zeit mal häufiger den o.a. MFA consumption test.
What amount is displayed when he draws poorly?

My suspicion is slowly turning towards the classic problem of a stuck EGR valve...

Okay, the idea about monitoring energy consumption is good. I'll pay attention to it and always check the current usage.

Where is the EGR valve located?

mecky wrote:

Where is the EGR valve located?

Directly in front of the intake manifold... there is also a technical article about that .

"I'm sorry if I'm about to ask a silly question, but I don't really know much about this."

So, the exhaust gas recirculation system is that part with the "silver round cover" directly above the turbocharger when you look into the engine compartment from above, right? Is it possible to quickly remove and verschandeln this valve, or do I have to disassemble a lot of things again, or should I just buy a new one?

mecky wrote:

"silver round cap"

directly above the turbocharger. Can I quickly remove and verschandeln the valve somehow, or do I have to start tinkering with things again or buy a new one?

A pressure sensor (like the one on your silver lid }) already exists. But I suspect you're now referring to the pressure sensor from the turbocharger.

The AGR valve needs to be completely disassembled and cleaned (where the exhaust gases pass through). The pressure sensor does not need to be cleaned.

Okay, by "the silver thing," I obviously meant the EGR valve. How long does it typically take to remove and verschandeln the EGR valve?

It's possible that it's full of oil sludge.

mecky wrote:

Yes, by the silver thing, I obviously meant the pressure sensor. How long does it approximately take to remove and verschandeln the EGR valve?

Hmm, some screws are difficult to reach.
It will likely take a new user at least 10-15 minutes to get oriented and then remove the part , plus any potential search or purchase time for suitable tools.

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It's possible that it's full of oil sludge.

Yes, but a layer of sludge that has built up over years hasn't even been removed yet, and now it's happening again (the motor is either drawing too much power or not working at all).
The oil sludge may only be responsible for temporary power loss if it makes the valve stem difficult to move and sometimes causes it to seize (when the valve is open).
(Which wouldn't be the first time.)

Tip: First, get a large syringe (60 ml or preferably 100 ml) and a piece of aquarium tubing to check the functionality of the valve without disassembly, only with the suction air hose removed, using real vacuum pressure.
Using pliers is problematic because the closing spring (inside the container) is quite strong, and you have to overcome its force first. Additionally, the shut-off flap gets in the way.

You can also use a vacuum hose from any vacuum connection on the engine and connect it to the EGR valve, even if you can't find an injector nozzle. The condition is that the engine must be running and producing vacuum. You still need to remove the intake manifold to see the valve stem. Best regards.

Hey everyone,

Today, I had the EGR valve removed and cleaned. There was a lot of soot, oil, and sludge inside. After cleaning, the valve is working correctly again. The car now runs a little smoother and produces less exhaust smoke.

Unfortunately, there hasn't been much real change in the symptoms and other issues.

What I've also noticed is that the engine seems quieter than it used to be since the power loss. I thought the rattling noise was louder before.

Hello!

My Passat also had a lack of power until yesterday. Between 1800 RPM and 2300 RPM, it would briefly accelerate, but then become very sluggish, as if someone was pushing from the front.

I had a lot of suspicions about what the problem might be. I already replaced the mass airflow sensor and checked the pressure lines, etc. Yesterday, I wanted to check the VTG (variable turbine geometry) for proper operation, and as I looked closely, I noticed a cracked hose connected to the vacuum actuator on the turbocharger.
Then I took another look under the hood, and there was another one that had been chafed. The second hose was the one connected to the bypass valve on the intake manifold.

The culprit was the engine cover.

I got myself a meter of hose, 3.5x2, and replaced it, and lo and behold, the car now pulls like it should, strongly upwards. The difference is like day and night.

Maybe this will help someone.

Best regards, pump.

mecky wrote:

Today, I had the AGR valve removed and cleaned. There was a lot of soot, oil, and sludge inside. After cleaning, the valve worked correctly again. The car now runs a little quieter and produces less exhaust smoke. Unfortunately, there hasn't been much real change in the symptoms and other issues.

Well, if the engine sometimes has power and sometimes doesn't, but the EGR valve is working correctly, I would next look at the turbocharger boost control system – and to do that, I would also install the mandatory TDI equipment called LDA, which is essential for this purpose .

I would suggest having the tandem pump checked.
You should also carefully inspect the diesel filter, the "knack" frog (likely referring to a specific type of component), and the pre-lift pump.
I also drive an ARL, but in a Golf 3.
"Initially, I hadn't installed the pre-pump, but I added it later, and that made a huge difference. The car feels "smoother" and reacts much more spontaneously/powerfully. I think this is due to better filling of the tandem pump, which in turn improves the performance of the high-pressure pump (PDE). If the air mass flow sensor (LMM) and boost pressure values are okay, I wouldn't focus on the turbocharger or boost control system for now. You should definitely check the catalytic converter (test drive without the cat) and let me know what you find. The measurement data requested by Ulf would also be very helpful."

"I noticed something else today. While I was driving with the window open, I suddenly heard a faint clicking/ticking sound coming from the engine compartment. I tried to determine exactly when it occurred by accelerating and so on, but I couldn't figure it out. You can't hear the noise with the window closed. When I got home, I tried again to locate the sound while the car was stationary, but I couldn't hear it anymore, whether I gave it gas or not."