Leistung bricht bei 3800U/min ein Motor: ARL | Posts 16+

I aligned the setting on the NW wheel (the one with the two notches) with the "4Z" marking, and then I checked the adjustment using the specified "aid tool" in the form of a 6mm drill bit (the drill bit was then able to slide completely into the cylinder head). The two notches and the "4Z" marking matched perfectly.
I understood that the engine was then in the top dead center (TDC) position.

Or did I need to adjust something to ensure the marking on the flywheel was correct, or does that marking then indicate the motor's top dead center (TDC) position?

Best regards,

Mark.

hnsteyding wrote:

Or did I need to check to ensure that the marking on the flywheel was correct, or is that then the OT (Output Timing) position of the motor?

Yes, the top dead center (TDC) position of the engine is determined by the crankshaft. Either use the locking tool on the timing chain sprocket, or use a mark in the inspection hole of the clutch bell.
Past experience suggests that PD motors, when adjusted through the inspection hole from above, tend to be more responsive than those adjusted using the KW stop.

Simply bringing the camshaft to the service position is not enough.

Here's a quick rundown of what needs to be done:

- Remove the V-ribbed belt.
- Remove the drive pulley for the V-ribbed belt (located on the crankshaft).
- Rotate the crankshaft pulley (to the right!) until the alignment tool is aligned (the marking is located on the crankshaft pulley).
- Now, the two protrusions on the NW encoder disc should align precisely with the "4Z" marking, and a 6mm drill bit should be able to be inserted into the long hole in the NW disc and reach the ZK (zero point). If this is not the case, ADJUST.

Zak1976 wrote:

Simply bringing the camshaft to the service position is not enough. Here's a quick rundown of what needs to be done: - Remove the V-ribbed belt. - Remove the drive pulley for the V-ribbed belt (located on the crankshaft). - Rotate the crankshaft pulley (to the right!) until the alignment tool is aligned (the marking is located on the crankshaft pulley). - Now, the two

"noses" should align precisely with the "4Z" marking on the NW encoder disc, and a 6mm drill bit should be able to be inserted into the long hole of the NW disc all the way to the ZK. If this is not the case, ADJUST:?:.

Hello Zak1976,

I removed the upper timing chain cover, rotated the engine by pushing the car forward until the two locating pins on the camshaft aligned precisely with the "4Z" mark; after that, the 6mm drill bit could be inserted completely into the cylinder head.

Or do I now also have to use the marking tool to check, with the help of the 6mm drill bit, whether the drill bit is going into the ZK?

I understood from Ulf that, to determine the timing (OT), I shouldn't align the NW wheel marking (2 notches) with the 4-dot marking and then check with a 6mm drill bit. Instead, I should look at the marking in the clutch housing inspection hole and then see if the drill bit goes all the way through the timing cover.

Okay, I'm going to check the OT (Outer Tooth) marking in the clutch bell inspection hole and then see how much the NW (Neutral Wheel) adjustment deviates from the 4Z mark.
Should the 6mm drill bit still be able to be inserted completely into the Z-axis carriage, or is that not possible with the "workpiece setting"?

I'm a little confused.

Best regards,

Mark.

hnsteyding wrote:

I understood from Ulf that, to determine the OT (Over Timing), I don't need to align the NW-Rad marking (2 notches) with the 4Z marking, and then check with a 6mm drill bit, but rather I need to look at the marking in the clutch bell inspection hole and then see if the drill bit goes all the way in.

Yep, the "2 notches + 4Z marking alignment" is definitely not precise enough to determine the engine's top dead center (TDC) accurately.
This is used to check whether the NW is roughly correct for the adjustment, or whether the motor needs to be turned further.

Hello Ulf and the other specialists,

I've checked everything, and I'm afraid I have to disappoint both myself and you:

Everything is perfectly adjusted.
I aligned the mark on the clutch housing inspection hole with the mark on the flywheel (2 teeth) and the "4Z" mark, and then I was able to fully insert the 6mm drill bit into the distributor head.
As a precaution, I then turned the engine one full revolution further in the forward direction to rule out any measurement errors; after that, everything still seemed to be correct.

Well, I need to find someone else who has the same engine as me so we can compare them; I'm starting to feel like my last Golf came with a lot of extras from the factory.

"My girlfriend's father, who used to be a car mechanic (but now sells cleaning equipment), said that the engine probably wasn't properly broken in 30 years ago, and that's why I'm having these problems, and that they can't be fixed anymore."
"If the car has never been properly broken in over its last 18,500 km, you won't be able to break it in now because it's simply not broken in properly," were his words.

I bought the car from a VW dealer with approximately 20,500 km on the odometer. It had just come from the VW factory as a 15-month-old company car (although it had only been registered for 8 months).
Well, I had hoped that the car would need to be driven for a while longer and that the problem would eventually improve, especially after the timing belt replacement; but it hasn't gotten any better in the last 75,000 km .

What else comes to mind:
I once had a weasel in my car that chewed through the vacuum hose connected to the vacuum reservoir (where all the controls for the exhaust and turbocharger systems are located). I checked all the hoses after the repair, and everything was okay. I guess I've been driving around without realizing it for quite a while.

I also read somewhere that dust particles can prevent the magnetic vacuum valves from functioning correctly; could dust have gotten into a valve, and is that perhaps the cause?

I'm somehow at a loss.

Best regards,

Mark.

Okay, so that thing about not being properly broken in is complete nonsense. It makes absolutely no difference to the performance, regardless of how it was broken in. Hard or gentle break-in periods only affect the lifespan and oil consumption at higher mileage levels.

The only thing that can happen during Tucker rides is that soot and coke can build up, which can obstruct the airflow. However, you can mostly eliminate that issue by driving at full throttle for 30-40 kilometers.

You can only temporarily set adaptation channel 1 in the MSTG to the highest adjustable value for testing purposes. It might be set too low.

hnsteyding wrote:

I aligned the mark on the pressure plate inspection hole, the mark on the NW wheel (2 teeth), and the 4Z mark, and then I was able to fully insert the 6mm drill bit into the ZK . As a precaution, I then turned the motor one full revolution further in the forward direction to rule out any measurement errors; after that, everything still seemed correct.

Hm, were you able to insert the drill approximately 6 cm deep?

Before the actual drilling hole in the center of the workpiece, there's a shallow step where the drill bit can easily slide in, creating the illusion of a proper centering depth setting.
Normally, when using the push-drilling method, you often have to make multiple attempts before you actually hit the correct drilling depth while pushing the drill forward.

That's why the trick with the thinner probe tool is important: it shows how far the 6mm pin needs to be inserted, otherwise the needle won't be in the correct position!

Hello,

@ulf

Yes, the drill bit went completely inside; I specifically tested this by turning the motor a little further and then trying again; it wouldn't work the second time.

@bastion

Okay, that reassures me .

I also took a look inside the intake manifold on the engine: everything was only covered with a slight oil film (which wouldn't surprise me; after all, I'm a long-distance and high-speed driver ).

Quote:

You can only temporarily set adaptation channel 1 to the highest adjustable value in the MSTG for testing. Possibly, it is set too low.

Are you referring to the adaptation channel as measurement block 1 in the MSTG (just to make sure I understand correctly)?

No, that's not what I meant.

Select "Engine Control Module" in VAG-COM - Log in with "12233" - then select "Adaptation" (function 10) - then, in adaptation channel 1, enter the highest possible value, but make sure to note the default value beforehand. It's also possible that it's blocked for you, or that it simply doesn't have any effect.

Hello bastion,

I was able to increase the default value in the customization channel 1 and also save it; however, it unfortunately didn't make any difference.

In the other adjustment channels, the same value as in channel 1 was displayed before the change; is it permissible to set this value to the highest possible value as well?

What else could be the problem?


Best regards,

Mark.

No, what would I leave? Channel 1 is actually the only channel that you can adjust without potentially causing damage. However, this value is often ignored in certain PD (Plasma Display) motor designs.

The other channels indicate injection start, initial injection volume, and low-level speed.

Okay, thank you!

What else could be checked?

Best regards,

Mark.

Maybe try running without the catalytic converter. The engine timing seems to be set correctly. It's also possible to advance the injection timing by 2 degrees. However, make sure to check if it's running correctly under normal operating conditions first. Otherwise, ZKD damage is likely to occur.

It might also be due to the tires (high rolling resistance).

If that doesn't help either, it seems you have a motor that is operating very close to its specifications.

bastion wrote:

It is also possible to adjust the start of the injection

2 degrees earlier, towards the "early" setting. However, check beforehand to ensure that it is actually working correctly in operation. Otherwise, ZKD damage is threatened.
Um den Zeitpunkt der Kraftstoffeinspritzung bei einem PD-Motor zu verändern, abgesehen von einem Chiptuning, wie genau willst du das machen?
Adapting Channel 4 usually doesn't work, as far as I know...

Just try it. Maybe it will work.