Probleme mit 1,9AFN | Posts 16+

I managed it through heat.

Okay, I've got the VTG working again.

but during the test drive... well, now the power is lacking everywhere, not just in the lower range, and the emergency mode kicks in from speeds of 100 km/h . What a [expletive]!
Furthermore, he suddenly starts losing coolant, and there's a lot of oil leaking from the top of the turbocharger.

*shakes head*


Desperate greetings.

Damaged gasket, misadjusted valve timing gear (VTG), coolant hose scorched or otherwise damaged.

Log the values using VAG-COM: addresses 3, 8, and 11.

Coolant is leaking directly from the radiator, seemingly everywhere . I just adjusted the VTG recently... but still no usable result...


Thank you for the reply.

Do you perhaps have overpressure in the cooling system? It's possible that there was a sudden pressure surge, and now you might have damage to the head gasket.

It might just be a dumb coincidence that your radiator broke right now.

I don't have any oil in the coolant, and conversely, I don't have any water in the oil.

"The ZKD (cylinder head gasket) has been installed for 400 kilometers (the engine is new)."

Why is it in emergency mode? It should be documented in the maintenance schedule (MST).

I can't access it right now *frustrated* because my laptop is out of battery and I don't have the charger here.


vomiting

Is there anyone here who can help me? Otherwise, he'll just get the car for free. LOL. No, seriously, it's a case for the junkyard. *in a bad mood*


"How many of you have ever needed more than a month to replace an engine?"

Best regards.

Without reading the error codes from the diagnostic system, we probably won't be able to figure this out. Otherwise, it will just be a guessing game.

Okay, I understand. Please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.

SO: Intake manifold pressure differential regulation.

Hmm, the same problem as before. Even though the VTG is now movable...


Best regards.

How did you adjust the VTG? Otherwise, maybe it's the N75 valve.

Hello,

Okay, so the n75 has been tested and is sealed and working properly!

My turbo timer might be misconfigured, even though I've already made numerous adjustments. Even if I make the rod as long as possible and remove the can, I still have too much boost pressure.


Best regards.

If the boost pressure is too high without any control, then either the variable geometry turbocharger (VTG) is incorrectly installed, or the "idle stop" setting is incorrect.

3BVari wrote:

My VTG (variable turbine geometry) may very well be misadjusted, even though I've already made numerous trips for adjustments... Even if I make the rod as long as possible and remove the can , I still have too much boost pressure.

Do you now have the standard 1 cm adjustment range on the lever?

Have you secured the lever on the VTG (Variable Transmission Gear) open position? Otherwise, the VTG might automatically shift towards the closed position without the pressure canister -> and then it wouldn't be surprising if the load drops too high.

Morning!

First of all, thank you again for the numerous responses.
The VTG (variable timing gear) can be moved about 1 cm back and forth without the canister attached. When I disconnect the canister, the lever rests in the open position.
When the canister is connected, the turbo kicks in quite early. I got my charger back now, for the boost pressure *lol*. For my laptop, I think a log file would be very informative, so I'll upload one.
What is the target value for boost pressure (charge air pressure)?

Which type of data should I best log?


Best regards.

hi

Log 003-008-011 and ideally perform it like a dynamometer test: so, set the engine to 1500 RPM in third gear, then apply FULL THROTTLE and hold it at 4000 RPM.

If the LED starts flashing and stays on like that, it's better to reduce the voltage earlier rather than later, so you don't risk damaging it further (as if it wasn't already damaged enough).

"In the 010 menu, the values for 'outside air pressure' and 'boost pressure' should be displayed, and they should be equal when the engine is not running (possibly indicating an issue with the boost pressure sensor)."

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.