Leistungsmangel 96kw Ibiza (ASZ) | Posts 16+

Turbo oil leak.

samoht wrote:

Where does the oil leak actually come from that's dripping out of the leaky hose? "From the turbo? It can't be from the AGR valve, because that comes later!" <I'm curious?>

I can't tell you exactly, but think about what might have come out after traveling over many thousands of kilometers, and then a really stubborn mass accumulated due to the dust. I had to scrape it off. Inside, the pipe was only covered with a thin layer of oil, but in the area of the AGR valve, it gets dirtier... it's a real dirty spot .

Edit: Okay, the seals have been ordered, and they should arrive in 2-3 days.

I also found 2 more errors in the error memory.

Address 08 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 6L0 820 043
Component: CLIMAtronic PQ24 0201
Coding: 0000000
Shop #: WSC 00000
2 Faults Found:
01271 - Positioning motor for temperature flap (V68).
000 - -
01272 - Positioning Motor for Center Flap (V70)
000 - -
Address 44
-------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 6Q0 423 156 S
Component: Power Steering Unit TRW V260
Coding: 10121
Shop #: WSC 06402
1 Fault Found:
01317 - Control module in instrument cluster (J285)
79-00 - Please check fault codes.


Does anyone know what this means?

In the v68 issue, the temperature control motor is defective, which manifests as erratic temperature settings (e.g., instead of cold air, you suddenly get warm air, and then after the next turn, it's cold again, etc.).
"Does the dashboard need to be removed to replace them? It's a huge undertaking (with Skoda, they completely replaced mine free of charge, even though it was outside of the warranty!)."

The problem with the V70 is a faulty recirculation motor. This manifests as the recirculation system not functioning correctly (the recirculation light turns off after a few minutes, the noise of the airflow when recirculation is "on" is the same as when it's "off," etc.).

It's located behind the glove compartment (at least in the Fabia) and can be replaced with minimal effort. In my case, the replacement was completely covered under warranty.


"It's funny how our problems are similar. On my Fabia RS, the intercooler piping is leaking in the exact same spot (with symptoms like yours: not reaching top speed, a bit more soot). I ordered the sealing ring from a VW dealer today (also with a delivery time of 2-3 days, I'm curious to see how much it costs), and I had the v68/70 issue back in March."
Manufacturing year: 09/03, mileage: 65,000 km.

Oh man, that sounds really great .
I don't have a warranty either; my car's manufacturing year is probably around the same as yours (mid-to-late 2003).
I think this diverter valve was already broken from the beginning, and it was replaced under warranty back then. So far, I haven't noticed any other problems in operation (except for a warm blast of air every 5-10 minutes for 2 seconds), but it seems like many Ibizas have this issue.

I'll wait and see how things develop. I'll prioritize checking all the engine-related issues first; the comfort features can wait.

I hope the new seals fix the problem. Unfortunately, it's not immediately obvious whether it's 100% leak-proof afterwards, as the amount of leakage is quite small, and there's already a lot of airflow in the engine compartment when the engine is running at full throttle while stationary.

The next steps will be installing a Cupra intake manifold for "turbo relief" and Ulf's LLK (intercooler) optimization. I might also consider a very mild chip tuning (Spritspar-Tuning) soon. I plan to drive this car for at least the next 3-4 years, so I need to take good care of it.

sik wrote:

Ulf: Here is the log I promised, 4th gear, 1500-4500 rpm [~60-180 kmh], fully depressed. I hope you can make something of it... /viewtopic.php?p=93112

Well, at a low-temperature limit of 84°, some performance is lost -> compare the difference in values in column D and O starting from timestamp 30.

Ulf: Thanks, so the primary goal is to lower the LL temperature, and otherwise, everything is fine in your opinion?

sik wrote:

Ulf: Thank you, so the primary goal is to lower the LL temperature, and otherwise, everything is fine in your opinion?

Okay, the fact that the engine is running in a "limp mode" (reduced power) even with full throttle up to about 1900 rpm isn't ideal. To investigate this further, please create a log file (channels 8, 9, and 11) while in 4th gear (preferably 5th gear), maintaining full throttle from approximately 1300 rpm to at least 2200 rpm.

Quote:

Hmm, the fact that the engine is running in a "limp mode" even with full throttle, up to about 1900 rpm, is also not ideal... to investigate this further, please create a log file 8-10-11 in 4th gear (preferably 5th gear) with full throttle from approximately 1300 rpm to at least 2200 rpm.

5th gear, 1200-2500 rpm (repeated twice).
/viewtopic.php?p=93305#93305

Thank you, Ulf!

"The LLT (Low Load Torque) at 84 degrees Celsius in 4th gear is close to my values. Fabiars ASZ engine, 60,000 km, 131 hp."

I noticed that during your test flight, you had an initial low-temperature (LLT) of 37 degrees, which corresponds to comfortable gliding without using the throttle.

I've been deliberately contacting my car repair shop for weeks about a potential LLT (Low Temperature Coolant) problem, as I'm experiencing intermittent power loss and have already had several new parts replaced, including the turbo, AGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), and LD (Load Adaption) regulator, without any success. ULF (presumably a mechanic or technician) then pointed me towards the LLT, mentioning that "the engine control unit reduces LD starting at approximately 80 degrees Celsius."
In my case, the temperature is 90-100 degrees Celsius in 3rd gear, and the oil pressure drops by up to 0.7 bar. "Then there are only 0.6 bar left ".

I would be interested in a log driving trip in 3rd gear, with an engine speed range of 1500-4500 RPM, going uphill would be ideal.

IMPORTANT! First, in 2nd gear, bring the low-temperature coolant (LLT) to 50-55 degrees Celsius at 3000-3500 RPM, and then, in 3rd gear, perform the LOG procedure.

A test drive would be of great interest to me.

sik wrote:

5th gear 1200-2500 rpm (2x) ... /viewtopic.php?p=93305#93305

Okay, here the LD (load demand) target is reached at around 1500 rpm, which looks normal (for the 96kW engine). Next, I would focus on reducing the LLT (low load torque) by enlarging the SMIC (short-circuit intercooler) inlet.

Ulf, everything's fine. You've set a good example.

super7: Please run your logs tomorrow; it didn't work out today. Which measurement blocks do you want to be logged?

Great! I think 1-7-11 or 7-8-11 would be the correct options.

super7 wrote:

Super!!!! I think 1-7-11 or 7-8-11 would be the correct

Sure, please provide the text you would like me to translate from German to English.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.


Here are a few general questions about the LLK (Low-Temperature Coolant Kit): Does oil flow through the LLK? If so, what kind of oil is it, and what is the circulation system like? Can I simply remove the LLK for cleaning and reinstall it without needing to take any special precautions?

Okay, a lot to take in at once. I appreciate any help you can offer, especially regarding potential alternative LLK options.

Best regards, Tom.

That's not coolant; it's oil leaking from the loader!

The air mass being transported carries it along into the intake manifold, where it is burned.
A small amount of fluid leaks from the connection flanges (at the lowest point, i.e., the LLK flange) when they are not under pressure, such as when the engine is stationary.

Roger wrote:

This is not a leak, but oil leaking from the loader! The air mass being transported carries it along into the intake manifold, where it is burned. A leak drips from the lowest point (

) at the LLK flange, specifically from the hose clamps, when they are not under pressure, i.e., when the engine is stationary.

So, it's that brown liquid again, which is, well, everywhere }. So, can I remove this part without any worries for cleaning?

Yes. However, it's quite congested. While I'm at it, I would also replace all accessible O-rings with the new ones.