Häufiges Anrollenlassen = ZMS-Killer? | Posts 16+

The stress on the timing belt should be minimal. The stress is the same as when you downshift to slow down the engine. It is, of course, not advisable to "start" in the gear where the engine speed would reach the RPM limit, and to engage the clutch in that situation.

Officially (!), the clutch should protect the engine (through slip). Therefore, no major engine damage should occur if you shift from 5th to 2nd to brake. Since the clutch now needs to transmit 400Nm or more, I'm not sure if this rule still applies.

I see the problem in the sudden acceleration of a stationary object! Timing Belts.
The danger mainly exists when a diesel engine is operating at low ambient temperatures.
brought into motion by towing.
It has happened many times before that the timing belt has jumped or broken.

The difference in stress during acceleration from 0 rpm to LL should not be so significant compared to the difference between LL and >4500 rpm, right?

Attention, in this case, the engine is "warm" and has already been running. This is a warm start, and the clutch is disengaged with feeling. Furthermore, Ulf states that he adjusts the engine's RPM to the LL (Low Load) setting.

If a cold engine is revved to 30 kmh and then started in first gear with a slipping clutch, it can become problematic. In this case, I see no problem.

Herr Antje wrote:

In Ulf's case, he either needs to remove the gear (by keeping the clutch pedal down, or not is irrelevant), then only the secondary shaft will run (which is as it should be when towing).

In that case, I'll focus on convenience: gear out + clutch released.

@ Mr. Antje:

Quote:

Officially (!), the clutch should protect the engine (through slip). Therefore, no major engine damage should occur if you shift from 5th to 2nd to brake. Since the clutch now needs to transmit 400Nm or more, I'm not sure if this rule still applies.

I tried this once when I was a new driver (at 150 in a Jetta II) - there was engine damage (broken valve spring) - it caused problems ;(

@ Ulf:
I don't know your route, but is the fuel efficiency actually measurable? You only win when you manage to climb the uphill sections with momentum and the part of the downhill section where you avoid using the engine brake (in order to maintain momentum) – the fuel you would otherwise need for idling.

Do you also stand on the clutch pedal at the traffic light so that the gearbox shaft doesn't rotate?

Hi,

I think that the protection of the engine only applies to the sudden high-speed engagement when manually shifting gears after downshifting within the permitted speed range – the slipping of the clutch somewhat compensates for this. It can't, therefore, act as a speed limit, especially around 2nd gear. "If the gear is at 150, it shouldn't help much - the machine should be able to safely exceed the speed limit despite the strong braking."

Best regards,

Jan

Thanks, Jan, that's exactly what I meant. How should the clutch limit the speed, of course, it can't.

I am not responsible for those who have misunderstood my post and drove at 150 kmh in the 1st or 2nd gear. have successfully completed the task.

Hi,

Quote:

I am not responsible for those who have misunderstood my post and drove at 150 kmh in the 1st or 2nd gear. shut down

"In the first gear, it's likely that more than one valve spring will break... if the car remains on the road during braking."

Best regards,

Jan

Holger247 wrote:

@ Ulf: I don't know your route, but is the fuel efficiency advantage actually measurable?

Yes, in the order of magnitude of 0.5 l/100km.

Quote:

You're only winning when you manage to climb the uphill sections with momentum and when you avoid using the engine braking on the downhill sections (in order to maintain momentum) – the fuel you would otherwise use while idling.

Something like that. I also have some slopes where I need to use the "normal mode" and give minimal gas to avoid becoming a traffic hindrance.
Rolling downhill without any energy consumption is faster, and the momentum carries you further.

Quote:

Do you also stand at the traffic light with the clutch pedal depressed to prevent the gearbox from spinning in neutral?

1. I try to avoid intersections as much as possible.
2. When the traffic lights are red for a longer period, I turn off the engine, especially if there are several cars in front of me: until everyone has had a chance to get going when the lights turn green, I have already saved half a liter (exaggerated).

*thinking* I used to own a Golf II ECOmatic that would shut off automatically when accelerating, at traffic lights, or when pressing the accelerator. Ulf could probably reinvent it with his "light" Polo control system. This would involve "Extreme Saving", "Standard", and "Full Power 160ps" modes. That would be something...

Personally, I always let my engine run until I no longer need it. This way, I avoid overheating when turning it off, and I also save on starting and battery wear.

Do taxi drivers/bus drivers, for example in Morocco-Westahara, Egypt, Venezuela, Mexico, etc., allow themselves to drive 1400 km without a break? Even with a 30-minute break, they always ...

*thinking* I used to own a Golf II ECOmatic that would automatically shut off when accelerating, at the lights, or when pressing the accelerator. Ulf could probably reinvent it, using his 'light' Polo's control system. You could create different modes like: 'Extreme Eco', 'Standard', and 'Full Power (160ps)'. That would be something...


Should he not, because the effort is significantly higher than anticipated:

not only that he has to somehow assemble the wiring and the control unit here, but he also has to install a powerful starter motor and a different starter gear, as these must be designed for frequent starting and stopping.

The 3-liter Lupo had a reinforced starter motor and a corresponding gear. As for what happened at Ecomatic, I currently have no knowledge.
With this level of effort, Ulf can now significantly reduce his appearances and save money.

No, time has found the optimal way for him.

Best regards,
Jochen

how does the odometer actually work when the ignition is off?
Could one fraudulently claim mileage in this way?

a dancer wrote:

How does the odometer actually work when the ignition is off? Could one falsify kilometer readings in this way?

Yes, that's possible. But rather only in the "Peanuts" area, not on a large scale like with "tacho" corrections.