Ich weiß nicht mehr weiter, Hilfe mein TDI spinnt !!! | Posts 16+

Hi Ulf!

I used a diesel return hose from the injectors as a suction hose. Of course, it's difficult to connect it to the valve... However, the cross-sectional area is much smaller than that of the standard hose for the valve. The pressure is P = F/A, which means that for a constant pressure, a smaller cross-sectional area requires a smaller force. Am I mistaken?

Best regards, Christian.

Hi,

haehnlein wrote:

...However, the cross-sectional area is much smaller than that of the standard hose for the valve. The pressure is now F divided by A, which means that the required force on the smaller cross-section is also smaller for a constant pressure, or am I mistaken?

The force is not acting on the cross-section of the hose, but rather on the surface area of the rubber membrane inside the container. This movement is against the spring force of the valve.
Therefore, it doesn't matter what kind of hose you attach.
You are right, the disguised container is difficult to use for suction (it only works with buccal suction, otherwise it would pull air through your throat). It's better, as Ulf already mentioned, to use a large syringe or a bicycle pump with a reversed piston.

Best regards, Rainer.

Rainer K. wrote:

The force is not acting on the cross-section of the hose, but rather on the surface area of the rubber membrane inside the container. This movement is against the spring force of the valve. Therefore, it doesn't matter what kind of hose you attach.

Hi Rainer!

"But I need some force to push the air molecules out of the system, and wouldn't that force have to decrease with a smaller 'suction area' at a constant pressure? Isn't it basically like a hydraulic press? Well... but the vacuum in the jaws has to correspond to the pressure of the system, so maybe it doesn't really matter what the hose size is." The syringe is, of course, better... but I didn't have any problems with the tube at all .

Best regards, Christian.

@Ulf
Regarding "hissing noises". Does this necessarily indicate a leak on the pressurized side, or could the noise also be caused by a leaking vacuum hose for the turbocharger pressure regulation? I've been experiencing exactly this symptom in my AMF for some time now. The soot is actually not more than usual (it already produces a bit of soot under full load due to the chip), quite the opposite.

Regards,

Olaf.

Olaf wrote:

Regarding "hissing noises". Does this necessarily indicate a leak on the pressurized side, or could the noise also be caused by a leaking vacuum hose for the turbocharger pressure regulation? I've been experiencing exactly this symptom in my AMF for some time now. The soot, however, is not more than usual (it already produces a bit of soot due to the chip when running at full load), rather quite the opposite.

Hi.

Hissing sounds from charging cable leaks are usually also audible while driving (the louder the accelerator pedal, the more noise or hissing ).

Due to their small size, leaks in fuel lines are likely to be heard only if you listen very closely, and only when the engine is running.

Hey everyone,
I finally got around to doing what you all suggested. So, I deactivated the AGR (Abgasrückführung). The performance has improved significantly, but it's still not optimal! Could it be that I need to have my car's emissions system checked again? After all, I've been driving with a faulty AGR system for at least 20,000 kilometers.
Now that it's gotten so incredibly cold, I'm having significant problems starting the car. I suspect it's the glow plugs. Blue smoke and a long cranking time are the symptoms. Could the slight loss of power also be due to faulty injectors? The engine sounds very rough.

Regards,
Reuselkopp.

reuselkopp wrote:

So, I deactivated the AGR. The performance has improved significantly, but it's still not optimal! Could it be that I need to have my 1Z re-enabled first? After all, I've driven at least 20,000 km with a faulty AGR system.

Hi.

How did you suddenly know that the EGR valve was defective? Did she not open it, or not close it properly?
In the latter case, the intake manifold could potentially be so heavily coated with soot that the engine experiences breathing difficulties. Have you ever looked inside the exhaust manifold?

Quote:

Now that it has become so... cold, I am also having significant problems starting the car. I suspect it is due to the glow plugs. Blue smoke and prolonged cranking are the symptoms. Could the slight loss of power also be due to possibly defective injectors? The engine sounds very rough.

A harsh sound can be caused by an incorrectly adjusted pump setting. Worn-out nozzles are also likely candidates, AFAIK.

Hi Reusel,

My TDI has a similar mileage to yours. Last month, he had new nozzles installed, and they have already shown positive results.
Less soot, smoother operation...

Since the temperatures have dropped below freezing, I've noticed that my glow plugs aren't working as well as they used to. It now takes a long time for the engine to warm up, and there's some rattling. This wasn't the case last winter.

I think that at 136,000 km (approximately 85,000 miles), spark plugs can easily be replaced. It shouldn't be unusual.

Unlike the nozzles, candles don't exactly cost a fortune either .

Greetings.
Thomas.

Hi Ulf,
I once received an email from Rudi describing how to disable the AGR (Abgasrückführung). Instead of the gasket between the AGR valve and the intake manifold, I installed a copper sheet that was cut to the same shape as the gasket, but without the hole. Now the engine runs better. So, was the AGR the problem all along? The closing mechanism was also quite clogged.

Regards,
Reuselkopp.

Hi,
Okay, here's the translation:

"nochwas." translates to "something else." or "one more thing." I haven't looked inside the catalytic converter yet. How thick can the soot layer be, and what is considered normal?
The start-up process was recently checked and was completely fine, according to the VAG workshop.

Reuselkopp.

reuselkopp wrote:

Hi, Okay, here's the translation: "nochwas." translates to "something else." or "one more thing." I haven't looked inside the manifold yet. How thick can the soot layer be? What is normal?

Hi.

I would say that 2-3 mm is still acceptable, but beyond that, it might start to become a problem, especially in the thinner individual pipes after the 1 in 4 transition.

Merry Christmas from Diesel!

Okay, now let's get to my problem!
The well-known problem with the TDI is that it's not running properly. I have been to Bosch several times, supposedly to see their specialists, and also to a VAG service center.
'I've been to several workshops, but no one can really help me. They just want to replace everything possible without testing anything.' Just going with my gut feeling.
Okay, so the symptoms: loss of power! It manifests as poor throttle response, lack of flexibility in the higher gears. For example, I'm driving at 120 km/h in fifth gear and want to accelerate quickly to 150 km/h, but it doesn't respond immediately; it takes a long time to shift, and while it's trying to accelerate, the engine sounds strange, almost like it wants to but can't. In the lower gears, it drives almost normally, but you always feel like it's missing the right amount of power. I bought the car, a 1995 Golf TDI with 90 horsepower, about six months ago. After the purchase, it was discovered that the boost valve was defective.

I think the injectors are probably not broken; they should still be new after so few kilometers (mine have 230,000 kilometers and are still working!).
To me, it sounds like the engine control unit (ECU) is switching to emergency mode. I experienced this under heavy load (going uphill), but not necessarily at full throttle, at a similar speed (110 km/h). The power loss was sudden, but of course, it was uphill! I had to downshift to 4th gear to maintain speed or accelerate slightly. The solution: the turbocharger pressure sensor (in the ECU) was not providing an acceptable value that corresponded to the load. A badger caused this problem, almost invisibly. It had gnawed on the hose from the intake manifold to the ECU. (I'm not sure if 'Ansaugbrücke' is the correct term for a TD engine, as there is sometimes overpressure there.) The crack was so small (as I said, almost invisible) that it only resulted in a noticeable loss of boost pressure under very high load. A friend of mine (also with a 1Z engine) had a problem with the ABR valve, where it was leaking (so it made a clicking sound during the pressure test). In that case, shutting it down wouldn't have made any difference either.

Now, I have another question: Where can I get the schematic for Ulf's selection electronics?
Does anyone else experience the problem where the idle speed isn't held consistently and drops under load in first gear? Is the car running at idle? Does it start (with kangaroo juice )?

Wishing you successful tinkering!
punctuated

You can find diagnostic adapters for VW/Audi under the 'Community' section. Then, click on 'revised standard circuit.' Use C-type transistors (BC547C).
Or here:
http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Adapter%20trimmbar.jpg{MARKER}

Regarding the community, you can find diagnostic adapters for VW/Audi. Then, click on 'revised standard circuit.' Use C-type transistors (BC547C).
Or here:


Thank you very much!
Hopefully, I'll be able to convert this into a layout and etch it soon!
Do you have any experience with the adapter from Elektor?
I really need to delve into this more; a TDI engine is incredibly interesting, and the workshops don't even realize how great they are! If only I had more time!

Best regards,
A

André.http://www.dieselschrauber.de/Adapter%20trimmbar.jpg{MARKER}{MARKER}

apunkt wrote:

Does anyone else experience the problem where the idle speed isn't held consistently and drops under load in first gear? Engine idling, does the car start (kangaroo start )?

Hi.

"Jerky behavior typically manifests in higher load and speed ranges."

Even at idle, the usual suspects come to mind: the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and relay 109.
Furthermore, a misadjusted or stiff mass airflow sensor --> use VAGCOM to read the alleged idle air mass, and if necessary, correct it.

Hi.

'Jerky behavior typically manifests in higher load and speed ranges.'

Even at idle, the usual suspects come to mind: the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and relay 109.
Furthermore, a misadjusted or difficult-to-operate mass airflow sensor --> use VAGCOM to read the alleged idle air mass, and if necessary, correct it.[/quote]

Hello,

Okay, I'll take a look. I recently had the engine control unit read by a VAG workshop, and it was completely free! The timing is fine. Only the sporadic error code 27 (I think) was stored: 'Speed signal missing!'

Regards,

André.