Einschaltverzögerung für 10 cent Tuning | Posts 16+

I think using manifold pressure as a control parameter is good, but it's not ideal. If you release the throttle, there's still a period of time 'x' during which the manifold pressure needs to decrease. That's why tuning often involves delayed shut-off! What if we used the throttle position sensor as the control parameter? Then you wouldn't have any delays at all! Also, you wouldn't have that relative and absolute pressure issue.

Hi, ich bin recht neu hier und habe leider mit TDI Tuning keine Erfahrung. Wollte am Anfang aus Interesse einfach mal das 10C Tuning ausprobieren. Nun habe ich diese verschienen Ansätze hier gelesen und denke mit, wenn man den Gaspedalgeber als Regelgröße nehmen kann, könnte man doch einfach mit einem kleinen Controller den Analogwert des Gaspedales aufnehmen intern mit einer Tabelle abgleichen und am Ausgang einen digital einstellbaren Widerstand ansteuern und damit der EDC einen variablen Wert vorspielen. From a purely programming perspective, it's not difficult to implement something like that. However, I unfortunately have no idea what range of resistance values would be required.

Regards,
Maik.

Hi there,

I believe that the throttle evaluation is unfavorable, unnecessary, or even problematic. Let's say the tuning activates when the accelerator pedal is at 75%. If the car normally travels at 140 km/h at that accelerator position, and then the tuning kicks in, it suddenly accelerates to perhaps 160 km/h. And this happens with the same accelerator position. With the slightest release of the accelerator, it deactivates again, and the speed drops back to 140. How is it possible to drive, for example, at 150 km/h in that situation?
The idea of using a boost pressure signal and analog tuning has the crucial advantage that more fuel is injected only when there is sufficient air available for combustion.
For 10ct tuning, you ultimately utilize the 20% excess air that the turbocharger generates.
I once drove a car that had been modified with a cheap '10-cent' tuning kit. You could clearly see that the engine smoked every time you pressed the accelerator until the turbocharger pressure built up. The purpose of the load-dependent, gentle boost activation is to avoid this suspicious smoking. Of course, this also has the advantage that the engine control unit doesn't detect anything unusual during its self-test.

As mentioned earlier, this would cause the tuning to gradually disengage. However, when I lift my foot off the accelerator, the pump shuts off immediately, regardless of the tuning settings. This is clearly visible on the fuel consumption display. The boost pressure then drops immediately. The tuning then becomes active again with the next acceleration, and the boost pressure increases. If you're driving on the highway at 150 km/h, for example, and the boost pressure is only at 0.6 bar, the tuning will be only weakly effective, etc.

Regards,

Eike.

joergs wrote:

ich halte den ladedruck für eine gute regelgröße. aber optimal ist die nicht. nimmste wieder das gas weg, dann hat man noch eine zeit x den ladedruck bis der sich wieder abgebaut hat. dehalb schaltet das tuning dann verzögert ab !

Hi.

Your theory falls apart in practice because...

"By abruptly reducing the throttle (or "blipping" the accelerator), the fuel injection volume is also reduced, which decreases the turbocharger's power output, causing the boost pressure to rapidly collapse – something that can be observed by anyone with a readily available lambda sensor data display."
Furthermore, a small amount of residual adjustment has no further effect when the fuel injection volume is already significantly reduced by using the accelerator pedal.

2. As an Authal driver, I can report that I haven't encountered any such problems so far. The driving experience with the active suspension is completely trouble-free and provides the original level of comfort, as long as you don't crank up the settings to the extreme "rubbing" range.

Quote:

wie wär es denn wenn man den gaspedalgeber als regelgröße nimmt ? da hast du dann absolut keine verzögerungen mehr ! außerdem hat man da diese relativ und absolut druckproblematik nicht.

It is possible that in the lower boost pressure range, where the excess air is still somewhat limited (particularly with older TDI generations like the 1Z and AFN engines, whose original tuning already approaches the soot limit), a noticeable tendency towards increased soot production could be observed.

If you don't want a nitrous oxide system, I think it's better to start the tuning only when there is a significant "air cushion" = boost pressure .

@Maik

I find it pointless to only manipulate the pedal signal. Any interference or alteration of the signal must occur at the control source.
The pedal sensor does not accept more than 100% of the required amount from the EDC (Electronic Diesel Control).

Additional note: Eike was faster... consider it as a match .

Hi Ulf, habe mich leider falsch ausgedrückt. Meinte natürlich nicht das man das Signal vom Gaspedalgeber zur EDC verändert, sondern das Rückmeldesignal (Pin2/3) von der Einspritzpumpe zur EDC über einen variablen Widerstand. Somit könnte man bei kleinem Leistungsbedarf den Widerstand sehr Hochohmig machen und ihn bei mehr Leistungsbedarf (mehr Gasgeben) automatisch und kontinuierlich (immer in ca 20Ohm schritten) erniedrigen. NJust a thought.

Regards,
Maik.

maik Engelberth wrote:

Hi Ulf, habe mich leider falsch ausgedrückt. Meinte natürlich nicht das man das Signal vom Gaspedalgeber zur EDC verändert, sondern das Rückmeldesignal (Pin2/3) von der Einspritzpumpe zur EDC über einen variablen Widerstand. Somit könnte man bei kleinem Leistungsbedarf den Widerstand sehr Hochohmig machen und ihn bei mehr Leistungsbedarf (mehr Gasgeben) automatisch und kontinuierlich (immer in ca 20Ohm schritten) erniedrigen.

Hi Maik,

Okay, so far, so good.

Aber trotzdem führt das ohne weitere Regelparameter je nach Einstellung zu starkem Rußen bei wenig Ladedruck, während die gleiche Einstellung für maximalen Ladedruck noch "sauber" sein kann . . .

So, it's either soot at the bottom and steam at the top, or always verschandeln with wasted tuning potential.

So, either soot at the bottom and steam at the top, or always verschandeln with 'wasted' tuning potential.


While you might be sacrificing some tuning potential, the significant advantage is that the amount of contaminants entering the oil remains within acceptable limits.

I drive an ALH engine with a variable oil change interval. If I were to tune the car in such a way that it produces black smoke every time I accelerate, I wonder what the oil would look like when I eventually have to change it after 40,000 km.

The brand-new trains have such advanced monitoring systems that they would probably notice if the oil quality deteriorated due to excessive soot contamination. But what about the transitional models...?

Regards,

Eike.

@ Ulf

It would probably be better than just installing a fixed resistor.
As a potential improvement, one could measure and analyze the boost pressure.

Regards,
Maik.

Maik wrote:

Dürfte doch aber besser sein als nur einen Festwiderstand einzubauen.

Hi Maik,

That is certainly true .

Quote:

Als Verbesserung könnte man ja noch den Ladedruck messen und auswerten.

That's also correct.
If you then also omit the (optional) accelerator pedal evaluation, you have copied the Authal principle .

Hi Ulf,

What is the Authal principle ?

Regards,
Maik.

Maik wrote:

What is the Authal principle

?

Hi Maik,

A powerbox that only increases the fuel injection amount above a certain boost pressure threshold (approximately 0.3 bar) with a "gentle increase," and fully opens the valves above about 0.7 bar. The pressure thresholds are internally adjustable.

"No hesitation, no idling problems. This is ideal behavior for a power box."

Hi Ulf,
Is there such a device?

Regards,
Maik.

Hi,

@Maik: Check this out => authal


Best regards,
René K.

Does anyone know the exact pressure range inside the head?

Hi Maik,

Are you looking for a box like that? I have one here (unfortunately, it cannot be converted to PD ).

Hi,
Since an auxiliary control unit from Authal seems to be the most suitable solution for me, I'm also considering purchasing one. However, to save money, it should ideally be a well-used, second-hand unit.
That's why my question is:
Does anyone know if the auxiliary control units from Authal are the same for the 90 hp (1Z) and the 110 hp (AFN) TDI engines? Although Authal's website lists two different part numbers, that doesn't necessarily mean they are different.

Best regards, Andy.