Fahrwerksgeometrie, Geradeauslauf und Reifenabnutzung | Posts 16+

Hi Bertio,

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Rear axle?? Are you having a problem with the rear axle? If so, then I'm sorry, I must have missed something. However, this is a known issue with the 6N and when using various types of tires. The Golf 3 also had this problem.

Perhaps we misunderstood each other. I have a problem in the front, as you correctly read. However, I heard your comment.

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As far as I remember, your IBI is on the 6-series platform, which is the same as our Lupo (which was significantly shortened and designated as a 6X). I had a problem with the rubber bushings in the control arms. One bushing was completely torn, and another was close to it. However, the axle geometry was still correct. If I had driven it for longer, I'm sure I would have noticed that the tires were wearing unevenly. I had a similar problem with my Golf 4. In this case, the (rear) rubber bushings were probably worn out, and I had uneven wear on one of the tires. I replaced the rubber bushings, and the wear pattern became symmetrical again.

interpreted in a way that you mean the components located at the BACK, which can certainly have an influence on the entire system and lead to corresponding consequences occurring at the front.

You actually didn't mean "at the back of the car," but rather "the rear bearings of the front axle," right?

So, I must have gotten things mixed up, probably because the mechanic I mentioned specifically talked about the rear axle bearings. Also, Martin also replaced the rear axle bearings, which further led me down that path.

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Yes and no. You mention that the wear pattern indicates a tendency towards toe-out, but when braking, the bearings are more likely to be loaded in a direction that would cause toe-in. Unfortunately, these bearings can sometimes fail in such a way that only one direction of load is affected (e.g., the core may shear).

That's obvious. However, even if the brakes are working properly, the acceleration likely won't be.

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Whether or not the car is on top doesn't matter.

Okay then... I'll test that once the issue with the air pressure is resolved.

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Try it out. If it had any effect, you should be able to see it relatively quickly. That would be the simplest approach.

I'll probably have to drive about 1200 kilometers on the highway before the next crafting opportunity, so I'll measure the tire tread again very carefully beforehand and note the reference points. That should give me some usable data.

Best regards,

January.

Jan6K wrote:

... Perhaps we misunderstood each other. I have a problem in the front, as you correctly read. However, I heard your comment. Quote: ... In this case as well, the (rear) rubber bushings were likely worn out, and I had uneven wear on one of the tires. The bushings have been replaced, and the wear pattern is now symmetrical again. interpreted in a way that you mean the components located at the BACK, which can certainly have an influence on the overall system and lead to corresponding consequences occurring at the front.

Ouch... You misunderstood me.
I meant the rear rubber bushings of the front control arms. There are also rubber bushings on the front, but I didn't mean those.

While it's clear that the rear axle has a significant impact on the overall handling, I have always only talked about the front axle... Sorry, I wasn't very precise in my wording.

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You actually didn't mean "at the back of the car," but rather "the rear bearings of the front axle," right?

Sure.

During your 1200km comparison test, you can also consider checking the tire surface temperature. After longer highway stretches with issues like track or camber problems, you might be able to measure a noticeable difference between the inner and outer edges of the tire using a relatively accurate (infrared) thermometer.

Hi Bertil,

Okay, so we have it sorted now . I'll take a look at that (along with the air pressure issue) and will wait with the surveying for now.

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During your 1200km comparison test, you can also consider checking the tire surface temperature. After longer highway stretches with issues like track or camber problems, you might be able to measure a noticeable difference between the inner and outer edges of the tire using a relatively accurate (infrared) thermometer.

I'm afraid that won't achieve much. When the ventilation system is running (especially after longer stretches at higher speeds), it pushes a significant portion of the exhaust air to the side, which then affects the inner part of the tires more than the outer part when driving slowly (e.g., exiting the highway and entering a parking lot). These small temperature differences are likely to cause uneven wear faster than I can measure them... plus, there's also radiant heat from the engine compartment with similar effects. Given how tightly packed everything is (it probably has the smallest engine bay in which an air suspension system can be installed as standard), that's a considerable amount of heat you feel there.

Best regards,

January.