Hinweise ZKD-Wechsel A4 TDI | Posts 16+

meyert wrote:

The whole process was a terrible ordeal. The first disappointment was the continuous separating plate between the timing belt and the engine block: The camshaft sprocket has to be removed. I've never encountered that before. So, first, I need to build a setting gauge! The biggest disaster was during the assembly of the turbocharger's oil return line. It was probably not a good idea to disconnect the return line from the turbocharger instead of from the oil pan. In any case, it took hours to get the screws in. I was close to going crazy!!!

Hi Thomas,

First of all, congratulations on this amazing work. The mudguard is definitely annoying, but during my procedure, I removed the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) unit, and then you can simply remove that part! It's probably a good idea to remove the ESP wheel (I'm not sure if this applies to the AFN engine -> on the 1Z engine, there's a kind of "half-moon" on the ESP shaft, which precisely defines the position of the ESP wheel on the shaft)! On my old TD, I simply bent it, which is probably not the most elegant solution!

Have you cleaned the intake manifold?

How did you clean the paved areas?

How exactly did you adjust the rotation angle of the Z-axis screws (using a protractor or a wrench perpendicular to the block, and then roughly estimating with your thumb)?

I always loosen the turbo return line at the oil pan . However, this can have disadvantages if the pressure hose is corroded: I had a hole in mine after doing that on my old TD... it took weeks to find the leak because the entire engine compartment was covered in oil.

Did you also have to do the work outside???? Well, my sincere condolences . I can certainly relate . That's why I always replace things like shaft seals, oil seals, timing belts, etc. at the same time, even if they still seem okay -> otherwise, you'll be stuck in the cold again next winter .

Best regards, Christian.

Hello Christian,

1) The only way to remove the timing chain with the camshaft sprockets would have been to cut the metal casing. I didn't like that idea.

2) Otherwise, I haven't done anything else regarding cleaning the intake manifolds or replacing shaft seals, etc. I don't think that would have been necessary, because everything seems to be working perfectly.

3) I removed the old paint with a scraper and sandpaper. It wasn't any more difficult than usual.

4) The idea with the angle gauge isn't bad. I might even have an even better idea: How about a strain gauge on the nut drive, which would provide information about the consistency of the applied tightening torque during the quarter turn. :-)) But before that, don't forget to measure the torsion of the tool as a function of the tightening torque and take that into account at the 90-degree mark. :-)) And always keep the angle gauge horizontally, so that the precision is not lost. :-)) No, just kidding, I think you can sometimes overcomplicate things.

5) The cold was truly brutal, despite having a metal garage with a catalytic heater. Luckily, there was also the adrenaline-induced sweat, which warmed me from the inside.

Regards,
Thomas.

meyert wrote:

4) The idea with the protractor isn't bad. I can even add to it: How about a strain gauge on the torque drive, which would provide information about the consistency of the applied torque during the quarter turn. ) But before that, don't forget to measure the torsion of the tool as a function of the applied torque and take that into account at the 90-degree mark. ) And always keep the protractor horizontally, so that the precision is not lost. ) No, just kidding, I think you can also overcomplicate things.

Hi Thomas,

I believe that the torque is only crucial for the first two stages . The rotational angle ensures that the seal is compressed by a specified amount... Otherwise, the 3rd and 4th stages could be specified as torque values . However, I think that tightening the rotational angles by feel is acceptable, because the seal has some leeway due to the silicone layer. However, the first and second stages are important and must be tightened with a precise torque wrench!

Best regards, Christian.