T3 mit 1Z KW-KILLERSCHRAUBE | Posts 16+

AFN, 1Y, AAZ, ABL, and AHU are also affected!

Even if you don't like the welding method, has anyone had experience with it failing to hold?
I'm taking a chance with this and hoping it lasts for at least 50,000 km; I would be very satisfied if it does.
If it doesn't hold, the 1Z will be out, because an AFN is already waiting for work .

"Has anyone experienced similar issues with the crankshaft bolt on engines like the AHF, ASV, AHL, or PD: AJM, ARL, AVF, etc., which have aluminum blocks and are water pump driven via the timing belt?"

T3Surfer wrote:

AFN, 1Y, AAZ, ABL, and also AHU are affected! Even if you don't like the welding method, has anyone had experience with it failing to hold? I'm taking a chance with this and hoping it lasts for at least 50,000 km; I would be very satisfied if it does.

We don't necessarily have to like it, after all, it's your engine .
Don't misunderstand me: I think it's good that you are trying something new .
We only hinted at our doubts...

I basically see two possibilities here:
1) Positive fit connection -> Interference fits: Is there any feedback regarding the durability of this solution?
2) increase the preload force of the screw connection, which is not easily possible with our methods.

Regards,
A.

jarobaldu wrote:

T3Surfer wrote: AFN, 1Y, AAZ, ABL, and also AHU are affected! Even if you don't like the welding method, has anyone had experience with it failing to hold? I'm taking a chance with this and hoping it lasts for at least 50,000 km; I would be very satisfied if it does. We don't necessarily have to like it, after all, it's your engine . Don't misunderstand me: I think it's good that you are trying something new . We only hinted at our doubts... I basically see two possibilities here: 1) Positive fit connection -> Interference fits: Is there any feedback regarding the durability of this solution? 2) increase the preload force of the screw connection, which is not easily possible with our methods. Regards, A.

Regarding question 1: I did something similar years ago on a T4 ABL engine. By loosening the crankshaft bolt, the dowel pins broke after 39,000 km. In that case, the nose of the crankshaft was completely worn out. It was only machined flat, and a new timing gear, bolt (with two drilled holes), and dowel pins were installed.

Translation:

Regarding point 2: Over-tightening the screw, far beyond what is prescribed, will later result in its sudden breakage. An AFN (presumably a person or device) died as a result of this.

T3Surfer wrote:

Has anyone experienced similar problems with the crankshaft bolt on AHF/ASV/AHL/ PD:AJM/ARL/AVF engines, which are equipped with an aluminum block and a water pump driven by the timing belt?

No, these engines are much less likely to be affected because Volkswagen has made improvements: an M16 bolt is used instead of an M14 bolt, and the contact surface for the wheel is larger.
My long-term experience with a 1Z:
-The problem first appeared at 280,000 km. The repair involved cutting the broken part flush, installing a new wheel, and gluing the screw in place.
-At 400,000 km, the problem reappeared. The repair was attempted by adjusting the alignment, but this time there was noticeable play. A new wheel was installed, and the play was eliminated by inserting a 5/10mm feeler gauge, after which the screw was glued in place.
-Designed to last up to 460,000 km. After planning the shaft end, the amount of play was too large this time. Therefore, the crankshaft journal was flattened symmetrically on the shaft end, a new wheel was mounted, it was additionally reinforced, and the screw was glued in place.
Current mileage: 600,000 km.

Great report!

It's interesting how relevant this "killer screw" topic still is today.

It's happening to me right now too.
I bought a 1997 Sharan with 420,000 km and what I believe is "killer screw syndrome" for the price of an apple and an egg.
I was planning to replace the timing belt anyway, since all the seals on that side are leaking.
Where did you get that planning tool from?
The probably won't grant that.
I was thinking of applying red Loctite to the mating surfaces since I only have an electrode welding machine.
I doubt that the simmer ring will be damaged by the heat, as there is too much metal present to allow the heat to build up quickly.

fantomas wrote:

T3Surfer wrote: Has anyone experienced similar problems with the crankshaft bolt on AHF/ASV/AHL/ PD:AJM/ARL/AVF engines, which have an aluminum block and a water pump driven by the timing chain? No, these engines are much less likely to be affected because Volkswagen has made improvements: an M16 bolt is used instead of an M14 bolt, and the contact surface for the wheel is larger. My long-term experience with a 1Z: -The problem first appeared at 280,000 km. The repair involved cutting the broken part flush, installing a new wheel, and gluing the screw in place. -At 400,000 km, the problem reappeared. The repair was attempted by adjusting the alignment, but this time there was noticeable play. A new wheel was installed, and the play was eliminated by inserting a 5/10mm feeler gauge, after which the screw was glued in place. -Designed to last up to 460,000 km. After planning the shaft end, the amount of play was too large this time. Therefore, the crankshaft journal was flattened symmetrically on the shaft end, a new wheel was mounted, it was additionally reinforced, and the screw was glued in place. It has so far reached a mileage of 600,000 km.

I have had similar experiences with some 1Z, AHU, AFN, and 1Y models as well!
Some of them start to loosen after less than 40,000 km, while others last for more than 70,000 km.

"I just remembered that the cars which were driven more economically, with lower mileage and mostly in city traffic, experienced these issues far less frequently than 150,000 km. The ones that were often driven mainly on highways and at higher RPMs, sometimes even with full throttle, usually had much higher mileages, often exceeding 300,000 km, without experiencing this loose crankshaft bolt problem. These were often company cars."
It would be interesting to know what the driving profile was like! I assume your car with 600,000 km is mostly driven on highways at a moderate RPM?

How did you achieve the flattened reflection effect? Was it done with the lens extended or in its retracted position?

Ah, so, Volkswagen has finally learned its lesson after more than 20 years with these... infamous killer screws...
"Grübbel, do you think the crankshafts from these modern aluminum engines will fit into older cast iron engines?"

Tagessuppe wrote:

Great report! It's interesting how relevant this "killer screw" topic still is today. It's happening to me right now too. I bought a 1997 Sharan with 420,000 km and what I believe is "killer screw syndrome" for the price of an apple and an egg. I was planning to replace the timing belt anyway, since all the seals on that side are leaking. Where did you get that planning tool from? The probably won't grant that. I was thinking of applying red Loctite to the contact surface since I only have a diode welding machine. I doubt that the simmer ring will be damaged by the heat, because there is too much metal present which quickly dissipates the heat.

Boxes with "Zustand" (condition) issues are really cheap to get, which is why they're being refurbished and reused in Eastern Europe and Africa!
I doubt that Loctite will hold on a flat surface, because even with Loctite, the screws can loosen and easily unscrew if they become loose on their own. The Loctite seems to have been almost ground into dust in the process --> This is my experience.

With MAG welding and air-cooled cooling, the Siri won't overheat! The Siri can also withstand temperatures above 120 degrees Celsius. (In a T3 with a JX engine in its original condition, the oil temperature easily exceeds 140 degrees Celsius under full load, but it remains sealed.)

Quote:

It would be interesting to know what the driving profile was! I assume that your car with 600,000 km is mostly driven on highways at a moderate RPM?

Yes, 95% BAB (presumably referring to a specific product or system) operates at medium to high speeds.

Quote:

Grübbel, do you think the crankshafts from these modern aluminum engines will fit into older cast iron engines?

Yes, the crankshaft will fit if it's modified. However, it requires a lot of work, mainly due to the oil pump drive.

Price tip for the face milling cutter:
http://cgi.ebay.de/VW-Audi-Seat-Skoda-Spezialwerkzeug-Kurbelwellenkopf-/270734795949?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item3f090d24ad

Quote:

How did you achieve the flattened reflection effect? Was it done with the lens extended or in its retracted position?

In its installed state, it requires a Dremel and file. However, a suitable tool for this purpose is currently being developed.

AWESOME It's great that it works even when installed!
If the time comes again, I'll try it too!
"Hey, were you able to easily fit the new crankshaft into the old gray cast iron block with the flywheel? Or did you need to make any modifications to the flywheel?"

Oh yeah, I borrowed the hand-held milling machine from my boss .
Does the inexpensive milling cutter also produce perfectly flat surfaces?

My suspicion seems to be correct: the coolant lasts longer at medium to high engine speeds.

Progress report:
"So far, I've driven 7500 km since the repair without any problems with the T3, while the Seat just sits there."
The fuel injection timing is the same as I set it after the repair – nothing has changed! The welded screw hasn't moved at all so far.

It seems to be working quite well so far!

I was quite surprised when I realized that before removing the timing belt, I needed to align the camshaft and crankshaft so that they were synchronized at top dead center (TDC).
It took a while to find the crankshaft's top dead center (TDC), but after that, the camshaft was positioned like this (sorry for the image quality).
It's a miracle that there was no contact between the valves.
By the way, the "killer screw" is already the new version, which destroys my illusion that I could permanently fix this problem.

Is the engine still running like that? It should have very little power and appear tired, as well as producing soot. That's how I imagine it, because it's severely misadjusted! You might want to pop a bottle of champagne and be happy that it survived.

As I mentioned before, I received it in this condition, with the diagnosis that it only starts when the temperature sensor is disconnected, and it smokes and almost dies when you release the accelerator.
After it started smoking excessively when I tried to start it, I immediately knew what the problem was and took it apart right away. I'm currently waiting for a delivery of an internal Torx wrench (M9) so I can remove the pulley.
But the previous owner still drove it 700 kilometers back home in that condition.
The KW screw already has the cylindrical protrusion, which suggests that it may have been "manufactured" before.

Shouldn't the abbreviation "NW" on the screw indicate that it's a late-stage product?
She clearly supports early [something - e.g., voting, education, etc.].

No, she likes Spätkäfé.

Sure?
As it is now, it's longer than the KW.