Lima-Reglerspannung.Welche ist okay? | Posts 16+

Okay, I'm also thinking about a passive consumer.
Okay, let's attach an ammeter and make it visible from the outside. Then close everything up and check after an hour. Try pulling out the fuses one by one; maybe you'll find something.

My "resting current measurement result" comes from the fact that we measured it at a battery store (as mentioned above), and also because the battery voltage hardly changes, whether the car is parked for 10 hours or 2 days.

But since my logic is already failing anyway, I've once again stripped everything down (the battery voltage was only 12.45V after a 2-hour break, and it's still decreasing).
Power consumption during connection is approximately 4.6A. After 30 seconds, it drops to 0.69A. After 5 minutes, it's 0.09A. After 1.5 hours, the display shows 0.01A.
The car was locked and turned off with the air conditioning on (Volvos have a feature called "Afterblow" that turns the fan on for 10 minutes after 50 minutes to dry out the AC system).

"Anything below 0.1A seems harmless/within acceptable limits, right?"

I took another measurement today on a 40-minute run. I started with 14.35V and ended with 13.95V – without any consumers running.
For each consumer (e.g., headlights, seat heaters left/right, climate control), there is approximately 0.1V less voltage available, and this is relatively independent of the engine speed.

The driving profile usually involves 3-5 hours on the highway, with some short trips (average speed of 90-105 km/h). Wouldn't that be an ideal environment for a battery?

cumminsracer wrote:

Anything below 0.1 A seems harmless/within acceptable limits to me, right?

Yes, the battery definitely shouldn't break down after a short period of time...

If everything is as you describe and it's all correct, then the problem must be with the battery.

But it's already the 3rd one since this spring .
100Ah Banner battery, 74Ah Banner "Generation 2011" , now replaced with a Varta Blue 95Ah battery...
The latest fresh invoice from Varta is readily available in the trunk next to an extra thick warm blanket, ADAC membership is paid... Winter, I'm coming.

It seems that adding the second cable has increased the voltage somewhat, which keeps the battery at around 30-40%, leaving some of the 800A starting current available.

If it hasn't been done already, remove the LIM (limousine) and have them test it on a dynamometer. If it has already reached 400,000 km, it might be nearing the end of its lifespan and may not be able to deliver the required power as the temperature increases.

The voltage at the battery should not drop below 14V when the engine is running.

mserge wrote:

If not already done, remove the LIM (limousine) and have them test it on a dynamometer. If it has already reached 400,000 km, it might be nearing the end of its lifespan and may no longer deliver the required power at higher temperatures. The voltage at the battery should not drop below 14V when the engine is running.

Please read the instructions more carefully at the top; he has already tested the engine .

A friend of mine also reported the same observation with his A6 2.5 TDI (AAT).
Decreasing charging voltage during operation.

I can only think of two possibilities.
- either you experience a higher load after a few minutes of driving. This is actually contrary to the assumption, because after starting, there's still some residual glow, which isn't present later.
You could potentially read the generator load via diagnostics or measure the current from the alternator with a clamp meter and compare it to see if you have more load than immediately after starting the engine.

- or the controller does it that way (intentionally), for example, through temperature compensation.

What is often overlooked with such phenomena: The cable itself may already be brittle and have green corrosion, and measuring it won't help - even with an oscilloscope; simply replacing the cables is the solution. It doesn't cost a fortune, as long as you don't get the original wiring harness;-) And excessive tinning of the crimp connectors should also be avoided, as this only promotes green corrosion because the flux cannot be washed out of the strands. Consult a friendly electrician and have 16mm ² stranded cable fitted with crimp sleeves as needed, and simply screw it onto the existing wiring for now. This helps improve the situation in all cases.

Finally! The 95Ah Varta battery has now failed after a whopping 19 months.
Positive: It lasted significantly longer than the banners.
Well, I'm resigned... a new battery every year.
Today, after being charged, Lima is delivering 14.4V with no load and 14.0V under load.

Opinions/tips/advice?
a: New Varta 95Ah (130E) battery.
b: New Banner batteries, 95Ah (110e).
c: New, cheap 100Ah battery (70 euros).
d: Cheap 70s records (around $50) and occasionally something new?
e: Monthly Öffi pass.
"Just saw on kfzteile24, a Becker house brand battery, 100Ah, 750/880A, 100/110e, with a 3-YEAR WARRANTY!! Seems ideal for me... if it doesn't cause any problems."
Another observation: I occasionally charged the battery, and more frequently towards the end, using an electric charger (a Cetek clone).
It's suspiciously common for the batteries to fail shortly after purchase. I'm already on my third or fourth one.
Coincidence? That sounds illogical at first.

Hi.

Have you observed the clone in operation, perhaps while having a multimeter connected to it?

Okay, please provide the German text you would like me to translate into English. I will only provide the translation.

Hi Martin,
Hmm, I don't have it right now, but I'll check it out soon. The 1.9 version is still lying around as a test object.
I just generally trust the world... and especially electrical chargers.
Everyone seems to be very happy about it.
I also once used a genuine Cetek charger (with the regeneration function) on all my batteries, and shortly after that, two of them failed (unfortunately, they were Exige/BMW GEL batteries).
It doesn't necessarily have to be related, but it raises my suspicions.
Yesterday, the clone was still able to charge a T4 device, whose battery is nearing its end of life.
If he collapses this week, I would definitely attribute it to that.
Tow rope remains within easy reach.

I'll measure the charging voltage of the battery (voltage after about 1 hour + resting voltage when it's finished) and, if necessary, use the Cetek device.

I've added a "3-year warranty" battery option to the list above.
Does anyone have experience with something like that?
Do they handle this without any issues, or will the company's legal department have to explain the fine print to me if there are any doubts?

cumminsracer wrote:

I've added a "3-year warranty" battery option to the options listed above. Does anyone have experience with something like that? Do they exchange it without any issues, or will the in-house lawyer explain the fine print to me if there's any doubt?

My experience with a cheap battery that failed to start my diesel engine during the second winter was definitely negative.
The dealer immediately said: "I'll connect you to a charger for 24 hours, then disconnect it and directly attach a load to test how much power it can deliver (using an old analog meter with a needle). If it still seems okay after that, the manufacturer will almost certainly not exchange it, and you would be responsible for all shipping costs."
According to his experience, my chances of getting a refund or exchange are probably less than 10% overall.

I then waved goodbye and bought a new one from another dealer. Legally, I would have certainly been in the right, but I chose the easier option.

Greetings.
Sure.

Here is the translation of the text from German to English:

"Guste" means "gust" in English. It refers to a sudden and strong gust of wind.

Aldi clone at the continuous plus rate of AHK .

It would have been interesting to see if the battery could still accept a significant charge with a charger like a CTEK.

I've now gotten into the habit of topping up the battery once a week in winter since I had one fail after 6 years due to frequent short trips. Unfortunately, the Moll battery then suffered a cell failure before I could revive it. Now I have a cheaper replacement that gets more attention and care.

Benni wrote:

I replaced a battery after 6 years.

... is a perfectly normal lifespan!