Probleme nach Zahnriemen Wechsel 1,9TDI BKC _______(GELÖST) | Posts 16+

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I would, in your place, bite the sour -but cheapest!- apple and go "back to the roots" once in a while... Remove the ZR covers again, using special tools (KW-Stop!!!, NW-fixing pin) to detach them by rotating. Only then can you be truly sure that the timing chain fits before you start randomly replacing sensors or other components.

I think checking the KW (clockwise) and OT (over-center) positions on the inspection hole of the gearbox, and also checking the NW (neutral without) position, should be sufficient for troubleshooting.

Speculations:
Actually, incorrect valve timing shouldn't correspond to the correct crankshaft angle, right?
If the timing is off by, for example, one tooth, I believe there is already interference between the valves and pistons. However, I'm not 100% certain about this with the BKC engine. And in the non-contact area, it should actually start up.

It's possible that during assembly, not only the "Knackfrosch" (if it's still present) but also a fuel line has sprung a leak. Consequently, an error message might have been logged, which, as has happened before, would be illogical. It was just a thought.

Hi Uncle BM!

It's been a while since the discussions about "over-rotated" twist angles, troubleshooting, and private (but factually relevant) discussions about this topic.

Based on this, I claim that beyond a rotation angle of +/- 6.8° to 7.5°, the MStG (presumably a German regulation or law) will definitely not grant the start authorization.
Subject to confirmation (i.e., I'm not entirely sure about the specifics!), the synchronization angle is reset to zero or no longer evaluated by the main system if it deviates by more than +/- 5.5 degrees. I believe I attempted to disprove that at the time by disconnecting the northwest sensor, and that's when the "0.0" value was displayed by the MStG.
Whether a tooth will engage or disengage depends on the position of the NW gear and the clearance of the long holes.
Therefore, in this particular case, I can very well imagine that the timing is simply not correct.

Best regards from Munich!

Okay, I've opened everything back up now.
The camshaft sprocket did not have an "OT" (Top Dead Center) marking on it.
So, before we removed the old one, we installed a new one in the same position as the old one.
This marking is now 1/2 a tooth too far in the tension direction when the crankshaft is at TDC (Top Dead Center).
That would mean that if we move the timing by one tooth and adjust it with the elongated holes, it would inject the material half a tooth earlier.
Looking at the values above, doesn't that seem a bit too early?

luebby wrote:

So, I've opened everything up again now. The camshaft sprocket did not have an "OT" (Top Dead Center) marking on it.

Take a closer look. Take a picture.

RedR32 wrote:

luebby wrote: So, I've opened everything up again now. The camshaft sprocket did not have an "OT" (Top Dead Center) marking on it. Take a closer look. Take a picture.

"No, I don't have it. It also says in my repair manual that it doesn't have to be present in every model."

"I have it in the A6, but not in the A3. I have the marking inside the timing belt cover, but not on the camshaft pulley."
It would be ridiculous because with the long holes, I could easily rotate them by plus or minus 1.5 cm.

The upper timing belt wheel consists of two parts: the rotating timing belt wheel and the hub wheel with the positioning pins. The marking (two small pins) is located on the hub, which is not adjustable and connects to the camshaft. This marking must be aligned with the marking on the timing belt cover located behind it. This is not immediately obvious because the belt is in the way. It is located on the lower right side, approximately at the 5:00 position. Next to the arrow, the marking "4Z" indicates a 4-cylinder engine. (For a 3-cylinder engine, the marking is located in a different place.)
The marking should be located between the two pins on the hub. Then, at approximately 8:00 AM, a 6mm drill shaft can be inserted through a long hole in the outer camshaft gear and through a hole in the hub, reaching a hole in the cylinder head. This acts as a locking mechanism for the camshaft, independent of any rotation of the camshaft gear.

If the timing mark on the flywheel also aligns with the timing mark on the transmission housing, then the engine control is correct. However, it would be safer to work on the crankshaft sprocket using the appropriate crankshaft locking tool (because the marking on the flywheel is sometimes difficult to see).

Yes, I found it. It was located about 0.5mm behind where the second valve starts. I adjusted everything so that the 4z is exactly centered between the two. Of course, everything with a K-stop and a non-working stop.

Success is now that, after assembly, it no longer starts and immediately displays a knock sensor error outside of the tolerance range.

I could puke!

You shouldn't adjust anything in the middle of any of the valves, but rather adjust it so that when the North-West (NW) valve is closed, the piston of the first cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).

If the flywheel really doesn't have any timing marks (which I find hard to believe, but never mind), then use a dial indicator to push a valve from cylinder 1 downwards. OT is where it's most difficult to push down.

Best regards, Rainer.

Okay, I found the OT point on the NW side, but it was completely different from the one I was used to seeing from the A6, and it was also obscured by the timing belt. I definitely found what I was looking for.

The Z4 arrow now points precisely to the center of the camshaft opening slot.
It's hard to say yes right now, but I'm just going to quickly take a picture. A picture is worth a thousand words!

I was just in the garage, but unfortunately, I won't be able to finish it today because I have to turn it over again. To do that, I first need to remove a part. And then I'm flying away for the weekend tomorrow. Starting on Tuesday, I'll take care of it.

Back in Germany and already in the car.

Okay, I've found another error. The camshaft wasn't properly positioned (not deep enough) - it was off by 4cm.
Now the pin is completely inside. (6cm)
Now, let's move on to the final confirmation question.
Am I correct in assuming that I am now in the right position because the camshaft is "properly locked"?
Using the elongated holes, shift the camshaft gear until the "4Z" marking is centered in the opening? And then tighten everything back up?
Please provide the image so I can translate the text.

Quote:

You shouldn't adjust anything in the middle of any of the teeth, but rather in a way that, when the timing mark is aligned, the piston of the first cylinder is at TDC (Top Dead Center).

You're going around in circles and essentially asking the same questions over and over again, questions that have already been answered.

Let me know if there's any new information, otherwise this is it for now.

Best regards, Rainer.

luebby wrote:

The question was what I needed to adjust on the long holes. I have an adjustment range of approximately plus or minus 3 degrees.

Hi again, the NW and KW must be in a specific relative position to each other. Since the teeth of the belt cannot be moved, the elongated holes are provided for adjustment.

luebby wrote:

Am I correct in assuming that I am now in the right position because the camshaft is "properly locked"? Using the elongated holes, shift the camshaft gear until the "4Z" marking is centered in the opening? And then tighten everything back up? see image.

In your blurry picture, the position is not correct, which means you won't be able to insert the pin properly. To do it correctly the first time, some finesse is required. Try using a 5mm pen instead of a 6mm pen initially.

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In your blurry picture, the position is not correct, therefore you won't be able to insert the marking pin properly.

The "4Z" should be positioned roughly in the middle of the lower of the two pins, and then it should fit.

Don't forget:
There is a marking on the KW stop that must align with the marking on the KW wheel when it is extended.

It would be best if you took some clear photos before you destroy the engine.

And one more thing: If you accidentally tighten the ZR too much, you must first loosen it before tightening it again in a clockwise direction.

Here are some photos.


1. KW Stop. At the KW Stop, I marked the indicators with chalk because they are otherwise very difficult to see.

2. Where does "4z" stand?

3. Where the NW stop is located.