Zündeinstellung Polo 86c 40 kw Bj. 92 1272 ccm | Posts 16+

Okay, so if it's jumping around like that, why don't you take it to a Bosch service center and have it adjusted for a small fee. It shouldn't be a big deal.

If only it were that easy...
Last year, I took two alternators to BoschDienst for inspection.
Result: Both are completely broken.
Both Lima chips are still running in the installed car systems today.
I don't trust any workshops anymore, and for a good reason.
What I can't fix myself goes straight to the junkyard!

I'm going to retard the ignition timing until it starts knocking, and then advance it a few degrees past that point.
Is there a shareware version of VCDS that allows me to adjust the ignition timing, or a time-limited version?

Best regards, Frank.

It doesn't require a diagnosis!

Engine must be at operating temperature:

Disconnect the blue temperature sensor connector. The ignition timing remains fixed in the same position.
Set the marking to "Z", NOT "OT" - that's it!

The temporary connector is reconnected, and now the ignition timing should be adjustable.

Or simply place the distributor in the center of the long hole... that would be the first of the Polo engines for which it wouldn't work.


It might even work with a G40, although I wouldn't recommend full-throttle driving with the approximate settings I'd use.


I'm going to retard the ignition timing now until it starts making noise, and then advance it a few degrees later. You won't hear it, even if it's set to its maximum advance... either those things don't make any noise, or you simply can't hear it... That's why you sometimes see people putting a 'normal' distributor from a naturally aspirated engine on a G40, and it only works if you rotate the spark plug wires by one position and set the distributor to its maximum advance... It will run somewhat, but it will destroy the engine after a few kilometers at full load.


It's easy to tell which engine you have: if it has four fuel injectors and the air filter box is located on the right side of the wheel well, it's the NZ engine.

Is that a central fuel injection system with a filter box (like a frying pan) mounted above the AAV (air intake valve) on the engine?

However, it's probably the AAV because it only got the NZ for a short time... These things are virtually indestructible as long as the oil and cooling systems are working.

Why on earth should the ignition timing be 0 degrees at idle with no action?
"Adjusting the motor load, so jumping back and forth aimlessly? No, that's nonsense." If the value or the flash point changes in the LL (likely referring to a specific instrument or process), something is wrong.

Why on earth should the ignition timing at idle be 0 degrees?
'Adjusting the motor load, so jumping back and forth aimlessly? No, that's nonsense.' If the value or the flash point changes in the LL, then something is wrong.

Hi.
That makes perfect logical sense, even though it should be completely normal.
'I had the same issue with my Kia Pride, but it still ran and was properly adjusted.'
Best regards, Frank.

Why on earth should the ignition timing be 0 degrees at idle with no action?
'Adjusting the motor load, so jumping back and forth aimlessly? No, that's nonsense.' If the value or the flash point changes in the LL (likely referring to a specific instrument or process), something is wrong.


because the system also partially controls the idle speed with it... it measures this during the AEE (Abgasendprüfung - exhaust emission test) or AFH (Abgashebeanlage - exhaust aftertreatment system) in idle, and you're off by more than 10mm...

It works without a diagnosis!

Engine must be at operating temperature:

Disconnect the blue temperature sensor connector. The ignition timing remains fixed in the same position.
Set the marking to 'Z', NOT 'OT' - that's it!

Temp.Stecker is back on now, and the ignition timing should move back and forth.

Okay, I'll try to find out where he is.
Best regards, Frank.

It works without a diagnosis!

Engine must be at operating temperature:

Disconnect the blue temperature sensor connector. The ignition timing remains fixed in the same position.
Set the marking to 'Z', NOT 'OT' - that's it!

Temp.Stecker is back on now, and the ignition timing should move back and forth.

Unfortunately, not.
There's probably still a mistake somewhere...
Does the engine have a top dead center (TDC) sensor? Where?
Best regards, Frank.

Hello Frank,
Your Polo was built in 1992. At that time, all VW gasoline engines already had a catalytic converter with control, which also meant an engine control unit, and therefore, in my opinion, also a crankshaft position sensor. If it exists, it is located on the engine block....
The year of manufacture, 1992, especially in combination with the gasoline version, means that you will need to diligently research the basic technical information about the vehicle yourself, including where various components are located.
For example, there are repair manuals available, or the "Etzold" guide. I would always make sure to have something like that on hand as a basis for any repair, rather than hoping that someone will tell me about it. I'm also deliberately touching on your sense of honor as a mechanic here.
Sure, here's the translation:

"Best regards."
Herbert.

If it is present, it is located on the engine block.

No, he doesn't have it there.

'The Polo engines are extremely simple in terms of fuel injection. Everything the engine needs is located in the distributor. There's a plate with four notches inside (depending on the model, sometimes all four are the same). The engine uses these notches to generate the tachometer signal and also to trigger the fuel injection. The Hall sensor in the distributor also tends to fail quite often, which can cause the engine to stall and stop running completely. You can usually tell this is happening if the tachometer doesn't register anything when you start the engine, even though the engine is running.'


Check out the forum on www.polomagazin.de...


What's the problem, anyway?

If it is present, it is located on the engine block..

No, he doesn't have it there.


What is the problem, anyway??

My primary issue is a lack of understanding.

I was told that the ignition timing can only be adjusted if you inform the engine control unit (ECU) that it is being adjusted.
When viewed with a strobe lamp, the ignition timing jumps back and forth, and this doesn't change even when the blue temperature sensor is disconnected.
According to what I've read, the engine control unit sets the ignition timing to the specified value.
The engine has an adjustable distributor, and I mainly want to know how to adjust the ignition timing without having to go to a workshop.

The previous owner installed a used distributor and only adjusted it by ear.
I think 8 liters per 100 kilometers is too much.
Best regards, Frank.

Before we can help, we need to know exactly which engine it is.

Monojetronic or Monomotronic.

MonoJet: TSZ-H ignition system.
MonoMotronic: Fully digital ignition mapping.

http://www.passat35i.de/threads/85504-Zündung-einstellen-RP-mit-Mono-MOTRONIC

Thank you, Bertil.
That's helpful, especially the link you provided, but I need to go to work now.
Best regards, Frank.

I looked up the technical documentation for Monomotronic today. It is actually true that the Monomotronic from 92ig already includes digital idle stabilization, which I wouldn't have expected .
However, this is done within narrow limits and is vehicle-specific. This means: If the engine speed drops due to a newly activated consumer, the spark advance (ZZP) is instantly adjusted to keep the engine speed stable. The more or less smoothly the engine runs, the more or less adjustment is applied. The basic setting for the spark advance can also be done without specialized workshop equipment: Engine warm, connect the ground cable to the L-terminal, turn on the ignition and engine, the spark advance mark will flash - if necessary. Distribution settings adjusted, complete.
Hopefully, the person who posted this knows what to do with the ignition timing mark and the L-line, because it seems doubtful .

Hopefully, the person who posted this knows what to do with the ignition timing mark and the L-line, because it seems doubtful .

I'm not familiar with the term 'L-Leitung.'
Is this it?
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/K-Leitung
The Polo has 2 diagnostic connectors.
How can I identify the L-line based on that?

The rest is familiar to me.
It's becoming clear why the ignition timing 'fluctuates,' and understanding this explains a lot about how this ignition system works.


Best regards, Frank.

RedR32 wrote:

I looked up the technical documentation for Monomotronic today. It is actually true that the Monomotronic from 92ig already includes digital idle stabilization, which I wouldn't have expected . However, this is done within narrow limits and is vehicle-specific. This means: If the engine speed drops due to a newly activated consumer, the spark advance (ZZP) is instantly adjusted to keep the engine speed stable. The more or less smoothly the engine runs, the more or less adjustment is applied. The basic setting for the spark advance can also be done without specialized workshop equipment: Engine warm, connect the ground cable to the L-terminal, turn on the ignition and engine, the spark advance mark will flash - if necessary. Distribution settings adjusted, complete. Hopefully, the person who posted this knows what to do with the ignition timing mark and the L-line, because it seems doubtful

.

Yep, back then, only a few workshops had the VAS device. It works with all Monotronic, Diggi, and Diggifant MSTG systems that DO NOT have the vacuum sensor attached to the distributor, and the same applies to the T3 gasoline engine. Removing the temperature sensor plug from the MSTG works the same way. It can be observed that the ignition timing remains in the same position during the initial setup.
It should be somewhere, after all.