Schaltung/Synchronisierung dritter Gang (gelöst) (Solution) | Posts 16+

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The container - if it has a metal cage - remains intact, while plastic cages usually become brittle when used. They become fragile due to the influence of oil and heat.

To be honest, I don't really understand the effort being put into this part that has over 400,000 kilometers on it.
Something like that should be replaced; you don't even need to calibrate it.

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@AutoService KFZ Mechanic Profile: AutoService Behind this cover is definitely the main oil channel; I've already removed the cover myself. When you shine a light on it, you can also clearly see the connections for the injector nozzles that spray oil onto the pistons icon_wink.gif

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I know, but no valves, balls, or anything similar will jump out and hit you in the face when you remove the cover. That's how I interpreted the question. Herbert probably already knows that it's an oil channel.

As a very economical alternative, you can also use a heavy-duty anchor to pull the storage unit, but destruction is unavoidable with this method.

a) Cover in front of the main oil channel:
That approach, which involves drilling and removing something with a screw inserted, is not an option.
"@Mpire - how did you do that with the small cover? I've already replaced the larger covers on the side of the engine block before; you could bend the edge up in one spot and then tilt the cover into place."
b) Removing the drive shaft bearing:
ich habe kein Schweißgerät und keinen Schwerlastanker (wie sollte das damit gehen?), als bleibt mir nur die Methode mit dem Auszieher. Die Haken müssen aber passen, sonst rutschen sie ab oder lassen sich nicht einsetzen. Ich möchte mir aber auch keinen kompletten Satz mit allen möglichen Haken für 500 € kaufen, sondern einen verwendbaren Hakensatz. Das Ausziehen wird vielleicht nötig, da c). Wenn If the bearing fails, the driveshaft on the bearing side needs to be re-aligned for the 012 gearbox.
c) Synchron rings:
The attached images show the synchronizer rings for the third and fourth gears of a used transmission that I will be resealing anyway. I'm surprised that the ring for the third gear is gray and rough on the outside. Both synchronizer rings have the same part number. The fragments of the broken ring also indicate this. Did Audi install different synchronizer rings 20 years ago, perhaps with a sintered material specifically for the third gear?Thank you.
Herbert.

Regarding the oil channel:
We used a CO2 welding machine to attach a screw, and then we pried off the relatively loosely fitted metal cover.
The gray synchronizing ring might be normal; it's the one that can withstand more stress. Depending on the load and manufacturing period, these were used.

I removed the cover exactly as RedR32 described. Just the welding process was enough to loosen it, because the shrinkage during cooling of the weld points made the cover smaller. It was already loose and almost fell off.

To remove the lid from the channel without creating any chips (without using a welding machine), grind one side of a nail flat and half-round, making it sharp. Then, hammer this nail into the lid; this will create a small hole without producing any chips and will pull the lid inwards. Finally, simply screw in a 6mm wood screw and use a crowbar to pry off the lid.


To be taken out of storage:

Wenn ich kein Schweißgerät hätte und improvisieren müsste, würde ich mir 2 lange Zylinderschrauben am Schraubenkopf T-förmig bearbeiten/zufeilen. Diese würde ich dann gegenüber zwischen Innen- und Außenlaufring stecken und um 90° drehen, so dass sie sich in den Kugellaufrillen einhacken. Oben ein Brücke aus Flachstahl mit 2 Löchern über die Eingangswelle, die beiden Schraubenenden durch und zwei Muttern drauf, diese dann schrittweise anziehen, um das Lager auszuziehen. Da die beiden Schraubenköpfe von der Güte her weicher sind als die Lagerringe, sollte das Lager heil bleiben. WIt would be worth at least trying something simple and inexpensive.

Mpire.

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Then insert a tool into the lid, which creates a small hole without creating splinters and tightens the lid.

Are you sure that the hole behind the cover has a step ? If not, someone could have easily pushed the cover into the engine block.

To remove it: The bearing is already quite tightly fitted onto the shaft.
If there's nothing available for improvisation, I would inquire about a suitable deposit at the , especially since there is also specialized tooling for pressing the bearing into place during assembly (which can be done manually if necessary).

Yes, the canal has a lock.

- because otherwise the principle of this locking system cannot function during assembly.
since the edge of the lid has to be resting somewhere in order for it to then buckle and...
seals the exterior.
- because I had already replaced the lid myself, as described above.

Mpire wrote:

Yes, the channel has a step: - because otherwise the principle of this locking system cannot function during assembly. since the edge of the lid has to be resting somewhere in order for it to then buckle and... seals the exterior. - because I had already replaced the lid myself, as described above.

In this specific case and in other similar situations, there may be a connection, but that is not necessarily always the rule.
In gearboxes, for example, or even with frost plugs, there is often no gradation or stop – which is why I'm asking the question.

The seal is ensured by the curvature of the lid (spring action).
If there is a force acting on the material and it is countered with excessive force, compression of the material will occur. If the surface were flat, it would also be compressed or permanently deformed.

Hi there,
The hole for the lid here has a ridge at the end. However, the original lid doesn't rest on this ridge. By gently tapping around the edge with the brass pin, you can tilt the lid and then pull it out with pliers.
During the drilling for the frost plugs, there was no ridge present (which I had seen before at 200,000 km).
The new lid is in place, and hopefully it will last for the rest of this car's (almost) classic life.
Best regards.
Herbert.

Hi there,
According to the RLF (presumably a technical manual), the wear level of the synchronizer rings in gearbox 012 is measured by determining the amount by which the synchronizer ring protrudes beyond the sliding sleeve. To measure this, the synchronizer ring is pressed into the cone of the sliding sleeve. The protrusion of the synchronizer ring should be at least 0.5 mm. Unfortunately, the image in the RLF is not clear.
Can anyone comment on this, or has anyone ever handled a synchronous ring and a sliding sleeve before?
"If I engage all the gears in the complete gear sets, there are no synchronizer rings left on my defective transmission and the replacement unit (allegedly with 180,000 km), neither for gears 1-5 nor for reverse. This would mean that all the synchronizer rings are worn out. I find that hard to believe."
hg
Herbert.

Herbert, I understand it this way: When the synchronizing ring is pressed onto the gear cone, there still needs to be a small air gap between the synchronizing ring and the gear wheel, which should be approximately 0.5 mm as measured with a feeler gauge. It definitely shouldn't be touching the gear wheel, otherwise it will prevent proper engagement on the cone.

Yes, that makes sense. Tomorrow evening, I will have two synchronizer rings and one sliding sleeve available (the friction cone/cone against the synchronizer ring is located inside the sliding sleeve in the 012 gearbox).
Report follows.
Thank you.
Herbert.

Measured with new calibrated rings on a new sliding sleeve: 0.4 mm to 0.45 mm (average value according to RLF regulations).
What limit value is Mr. Audi specifying there in his RLF (0.5 mm)?
I'm curious to see what the old parts reveal.
hg
Herbert.

The synchronizer rings only need to last a few thousand kilometers. Given your car's total mileage so far, perhaps 50,000 km is already sufficient. So, I wouldn't assume they are completely new. Half the price of new would be a good starting point.

First, let's clarify the procedure for checking the wear of the synchronizer rings. As previously mentioned, friction during synchronization occurs between the synchronizer ring and the hub (not between the ring and the gear). To check for wear, the distance between the teeth of both parts is measured from the inside of the hub. The image in the service manual is somewhat inaccurate.
I probably got a worn-out old gearbox in the trade; at least, all the synchronizers and the shifting mechanism were damaged compared to my gearbox with 430,000 km on it. So, I took parts from two gearboxes to make one (swapped the gears between them, installed new synchronizer rings). The driveshaft and pinion are now assembled. Assembly and installation of the gearbox will follow.
I'll share some repair tips with you later.
hg
Herbert.

Hi there,
The Audi is running again. After three days of operation, there are no oil leaks and no noises from the transmission or clutch. The synchronization and engagement of the sliding gears are a bit stiff when shifting up, but perhaps that will improve over time.
A final surprise came during the installation of the flange shafts. On one of the flange shafts, the retaining ring also wouldn't snap into place. The cause: one of the two large bevel gears in the differential didn't have a groove for the retaining ring. So, I had to go back and rummage through the parts from my original wiring harness again.
hg
Herbert.