Stoßdämpfer und Querlenker Passat 3BG | Posts 16+

Herbert wrote:

Definitely, no impact wrench should be used there. On older models, the damper nut is tightened with, for example, a VW 3078 or a homemade tool, and held in place from inside through the window using an Allen key. On newer models, VW uses a special ratchet (open-top) for the nut. Wrong nut used??

Hello Herbert,

The nut was on the shock absorber (TRW brand). It still has the plastic insert for self-locking, as always. Therefore, you need a good amount of force to screw the nut on when the thread reaches the self-locking area.

"With me, 50 Nm wasn't enough to properly tighten the nut. On older Passats, the Allen key used to hold it in place was a size 7. Now it's only a size 5. And trying to counteract more than 50 Nm with a size 5 Allen key? I don't know if that's a good idea (because the damper rod itself hardly experiences any force – it rotates easily)."

Rüdi wrote:

And I didn't have any problems except for the lower ball joint, but even that one eventually gave way with the help of heat, cold, a pneumatic chisel, and a lot of rust remover, stretching its flanges in the process. I've never had the luxury of being able to do this on a stage before, using only jack stands and mostly without anyone helping me, but in the end, all the cars were driven away again. Perhaps it's because I've been working on cars myself for over 30 years, I have a sufficient supply of high-quality tools (and if something is missing, it's immediately purchased), and luckily, I've always had enough patience to avoid getting frustrated and causing problems when dealing with larger issues.

Hello Ruedi,

Then please don't let me die stupidly :

I generally buy my tools from either Hazet or Gedore. How did you manage to remove the lower rear control arm from the hub? My Hazet 1790-7 press didn't fit properly, even though it successfully removed the lower front control arms last year without any problems.

How do you tighten the lower rear control arm bolt on the stub axle when you can't use an Allen key to hold it in place, like with the front ones? Without an impact wrench or a press that forces the joint into the stub axle, I think it's impossible to do this in your own garage. The same applies if you repeatedly remove and reinstall the lower rear control arm after a few kilometers. In my case, the Allen key used for holding it in place was loose from the start. Then you can't even get the old one back in (which happened to me last year).

How do you lower the main support beam in the garage (using what kind of support) to access and remove the screws on the bottom rear handlebar mount?

I have one more question about the faulty ABS sensor. I just checked the cable, and it seems to be perfectly fine. The wheel hub was connected to the front linkage all along, and when the top part was removed, I supported it from below. Even if the cable is clipped in, I don't think it can break unless the hub is excessively lowered or twisted.

My guess is that the sensor itself might have been damaged by the hammering on the axle housing (to remove the lower, front control arm). If I remember correctly, the sensor tends to corrode and get stuck in the axle housing. Should I try to remove it myself, or should I consult a workshop instead?

Steffen W wrote:

If you had said something earlier. "For this model, Monroe offers front shock absorbers with pre-assembled springs, strut mounts, and dust boots, available under part numbers 5550020 and 5550021 in the parts trade. This eliminates the need for separate spring compression. However, these are only suitable for use with a "standard suspension" setup." "Whoever finds that appealing, it saves them work."

Hello Steffen,

oh, that would have been an extremely elegant solution. However, I already looked into this option a few weeks ago. But a parts dealer told me that the complete shock absorbers are only available for the 3B and not for the 3BG . For example, Amazon lists the Monroe 5550020, but it also displays a message saying that it is not suitable for my model.

Does Monroe offer this for other models as well (e.g., Audi A2, Passat CC)?

[Translating...]

Quote:

Bei mir haben die 50 Nm nicht gereicht, um die Mutter fest zuziehen.

Die Aussage verstehe ich nicht. Meinst Du, daß mehr als 50 Nm nötig waren, um die Mutter mit Sicherungsring zu drehen?
hg
Herbert

[Translating...]

haehnlein wrote:

Eine Frage zum defekten ABS-Sensor hätte ich noch. Ich habe mir eben das Kabel angesehen. Das ist vollkommen in Ordnung.

ABS Sensoren gehen gerne mal ohne Vorwarnung kaputt, hatte ich bei allen möglichen Fahrzeugen öfter, es reicht oft wenn die Zuleitung in andere Positionen als normal kommt.

Da die Dinger aber spottbillig zu bekommen sind würde ich mir keine weiteren Gedanken machen sondern einen neuen besorgen, und die Klemmhülse auch gleich mit besorgen.

[Translating...]

Herbert wrote:

Die Aussage verstehe ich nicht. Meinst Du, daß mehr als 50 Nm nötig waren, um die Mutter mit Sicherungsring zu drehen?

Hallo Herbert,

genau das meinte ich. Das hohe Anzugsmoment mit einem 5er Inbus an das Dämpferstange gegenzuhalten ist mir schon etwas suspekt.

Immerhin gibt es mittlerweile ein Happy End. Der Wagen rollt wieder. Allerdings hat die Werkstatt riesige Probleme beim Ausbau der Spurstangenköpfe gehabt. Die Gewinde waren so fest in der Spurstange fest gerostet, dass nur noch die mehrfache Anwendung eines Brenners und rohe Gewalt den Austausch aller Spurstangen verhindert hat. Dabei sind allerdings beide Manschetten abgefackelt, die ebenfalls ersetzt werden mussten. Es gibt also nicht nur die "Böse Schraube", sondern auch das "Böse Spurstangengewinde".

Die Achsvermessung wird mittlerweile mit 3D-Technik ohne irgendwelche montierten Gerätschaften durchgeführt. Die Werkstatt hat sich die dafür erforderliche 40.000€ teure Anlage mit drei anderen Werkstätten zusammen gekauft. Die Vermessung kostet ungefähr 130€.

Im Nachhinein kann ich nur empfehlen, das komplette Federbein (falls es das für den 3BG gibt) bzw. die Einzelteile neu zu kaufen und diese vorher in aller Ruhe im Keller mit einem STABILEN Federspanner zusammenzubauen.

Die originalen Achslenker sind übrigens von TRW und haben bei mir 310.000 km gehalten.

[Translating...]

Es ist einfach abwegig, daß bei einer für 50Nm Anzugsmoment gedachten selbsthemmenden Mutter die Hemmung durch den Kunststoffring größer als 50 Nm sein soll. Auch hier wurde was falsch gemacht. Standardgewinde auf Feingewinde?
Den Thread sollte man langsam zu machen, damit sich nicht noch mehr ansammelt.
hg
Herbert