VP37 am Hochdruckteil undicht | Posts 16+

Is there a piece of valve in the Omega slot?
hg
Herbert

No, that's diesel.

I measured the compression before I removed the head. There were the injectors connected.

Here is the image of the cylinder 2.

Hello,

I have now disassembled the ZK. 2 valves, exhaust, bent, 2 hydropneumatic cylinders are broken, and a new camshaft is also being installed.

Is the crank shaft cover gear somehow fixed besides with the screw?

Not that it had also become distorted, but I believe the weakest link in the chain has given way, namely the timing belt.

The engine is indeed open, when I turn the crankshaft on OT 1, the piston also comes to rest.

It seems like the crankshaft is practically impossible to manually turn.

Hi,

- it is best to replace all pistons, along with the valve stem seals (due to Running distance);
- The bevel gear is held in place by the central screw and is positioned against the KW (Kürzel für "Kupplung", gearbox) using the "Formschluß" (form-fitting connection) with the KW's tapered opening. I would remove the gear and inspect the contact surface. The screw needs to be replaced.
- The OT (Overrunning Torque) is only adjusted by positioning the clutch disc against the gearbox bell.

hg
Herbert

Hello,

with what is it best to remove the sealing remnants, i.e. the residue from the surfaces where the new cylinder head gasket is to be placed?

If wooden or plastic scrapers don't work, I use a flat scraper, such as the Hazet 824-1. Please do not scratch.
hg
Herbert

I tried it with 800-grit sandpaper and motor oil.

It takes a bit of time.

Will this be done the same way as on the block?

So, a week later and after spending a few hours in the workshop, I had a few questions.

Okay, the ZK is back up. I have replaced the 2 bent valves along with the hydros and the camshaft, as the 2 bent valves were also visible on the camshaft.

I removed the oil residue from the valves, re-sharpened them, and installed new shaft seals.

The engine was running, but only on three cylinders.

I then turned the engine on cylinder 1 to TDC, marking everything: timing belt twice, fuel pump once, and camshaft once. Furthermore, I also made 2 markings, one on the NW (Northwest) and one on the ESP (East-South-East) side, at the back of the sheet.

I have now transferred the marking to the new timing belt.

The camshaft pulley had to be removed because it wasn't secured with a groove. I then reinstalled it according to my two markings and tightened it by hand.

So, the Arrietier Foundation will be transferred to the ESP. However, the game has become a bit more complex due to starting with the starter and the pre-set Arrietier pencil.

I can use a ruler to enter the amount.

If I look at the back of the swing arm now, the marking "0" is not quite on the edge, but rather about a third of the way in, when viewed as a whole window.

I haven't manually started the engine yet.

Is there a trick to getting this done?

The timing belts will also lengthen slightly over time. The one inside also had 60,000 km on it.

And I have one more question regarding the injection timing. Before I started replacing the ESP valve, I checked the injection timing with a VCD-TDI graph when the engine was cold.

It fluctuated between 0.35 and 0.38, just before the target range of 0.4 to 0.6.

So, after the exchange, everything seemed to be okay, but it was clearly too early, at 0.1 to 0.15. The ESP still needs to be like this, as I only opened one of the 4 screws.

Wierum must now rotate the pump either towards or away from the engine block?

Greetings

Quote:

I can use a ruler to enter the net amount. If I look at the rear of the swing arm, the 0 marking is not quite on the edge, but rather about a third of the way in, when viewed as a whole window. I haven't manually cranked the engine yet. Is there a trick to getting it there?

The ZR is generally placed with a loose wheel, fixed NW with a ruler, marked ESP and KW in OT position, and then tightened. After tightening, the locking pin is removed, and the KW is re-positioned cleanly in OT position. Then the nut of the NW wheel is tightened, with the NW wheel held against it!
After removing the NW Lineal motor from the KW manually, manually turn the KW, and then re-check the belt tension, NW position, and ESP position in OT. If necessary, re-tension the belt. The NW position will be corrected again after removing the NW wheel. If the ESP (Electronic Stability Program) cannot be deactivated, the belt has been incorrectly routed around a tooth.
Dynamic control of the injection timing is best done when the engine is warm. What do you have there for a VCDS??
hg
Herbert

Oh, that's something really old. It's still running on Windows 98. Use VAG-Com version 3.xx.

But since in the original VW description also the value 0.4 - 0.6 is described, I think I am right.

The engine had already been heavily worn out with the 0.11.

Ok, I'll try the method you described.

If you have then correctly turned the pump in the right direction, you must definitely repeat all of this again with the NW wheel, etc.?

Quote:

I recommend using VAG-Com version 3.xx.

It would be beneficial to upgrade to a newer version, as this would also allow for providing assistance.

Quote:

However, since the original VW description also states a value of 0.4 - 0.6, I believe I am correct in my assessment... Ok, I will try the method you described . If you've then correctly turned the pump in the right direction, you'll definitely have to repeat all of this again, for example, to loosen the NW nut, etc.?

I don't believe you have a reasonably good repair manual, otherwise you wouldn't make such statements. Think about how the timing belt drive works. What tightens, what controls, and what is tracked?
Okay, here's the translation:

So, create a guide, and to configure the pump, use a VCDS version with a license.
hg
Herbert

Hello Herbert,

so, the manual is from VW.

I made a slight mistake with the numbers.

Before I disassembled everything, the TDI Timing Checker indicated a value of 37 when the engine was cold or the fuel temperature was measured.

After replacing the O-ring on the ESP after disassembling the ESP, it was running at 11 rpm.

According to the instructions, this should settle between 40 and 80.

Am I right that in Case 2, the injection timing was too early?

Now should the ESP be flipped in the console?

Only when I'm standing in front of the engine, for the A4, is the engine located longitudinally?

Clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Greetings

Thomas

Quote:

so, die Anleitung stammt von VW

Take a look here:
/viewtopic.php?t=3195
What you are posting here does not align with the FA.
It also doesn't match my original RLF documents for setting up the control and injection systems. Our FA, however, aligns with my RLF's.

Quote:

According to the instructions, it should settle between 40 and 80 degrees when the engine is cold or the fuel temperature is between 40 and 80 degrees.

Where exactly should that be?
I'm writing this reluctantly, given your unfortunate situation, but this thread should not be continued in this way. Your sources seem as strange as your VAG-COM 3.xx.
hg
Herbert

So, the RLF was printed using Elsa.

That's not how it's written, of course. The dynamic injection timing should be within this range.

But if I were to look at the diagram, which is for a 1Z engine, at a fuel temperature of 50, it would seem to be correct.

I currently have a fuel temperature of 78. Would be, according to the diagram, between approximately 35 and 75

11 is significantly lower.

I have already read the FA. That was the first step. While setting things up with DIY tools was more confusing than helpful.

I got the engine running today.

I hope I can still manage to modify the fuel pump.

I'm also doing this for the first time, so please forgive my ignorance.

Despite everything, thank you for your help.

Greetings

Hello,

I would like to try doing it myself without a full renovation, as @Tagessuppe described.

Now, I would like to ask if anyone knows the dimensions of the O-ring, as well as the material it is made of.
I'd like to order a set of seals, but I'd also like to have 3-4 extra seals just in case, so I was hoping to order the others separately.

Pump is a VP37 on a 1Z engine with 90 hp.

I hope someone can help me.

Thank you.