Klimakompressor läuft nicht | Posts 16+

Mileage is 98,000 km. Since the riveting is a potential weak point, it is likely subject to wear and corrosion.

VG
Andreas.

Hm .

I've driven several cars with almost triple the mileage, and I haven't experienced this problem with the air conditioning compressor in any of them. But, you know, anything is possible.

Best regards, Rainer.

I'm not familiar with that problem either. But it seems like this is probably a new era of quality.

VG
Andreas.

For example, in my Seat, which has almost 400,000 kilometers on it, the air conditioning still cools like the first day with the original compressor.
More noticeable are the internally regulated compressors, which are often failing: broken safety couplings or defective solenoid valves...

While I was searching on Google, I noticed that there are similar discussions in many forums. It seems that it's not uncommon for pulley wheels or drive sprockets to be defective.

On the other hand, I also don't know what it's supposed to be, and there must be a reason why the dealer is selling these parts.

The compressor has been replaced. It really looks worn, as the construction doesn't seem reliable. BUT the system is not cooling.

The compressor load is 2.2 Nm in idle, and then decreases when you accelerate. I think that's too low...

Which values, when checked via VCDS, can provide information about the cause? Of course, the error memory is empty in this regard.

Shutdown conditions? Has anyone tampered with the throttle?

Best regards, Rainer.

No shutdown conditions. What do you mean by "throttling"? Do you mean the valve in the compressor?

Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

dieselschrauber wrote:

Shutdown conditions? Has anyone tinkered with the throttle? Best regards, Rainer

I believe nothing has ever been changed on this system. I haven't had it for very long, and based on the invoices I have, there's nothing to indicate any modifications.

However, I've noticed that the return line doesn't get cold when I let the engine run for a longer period.

Hello!

Create a log file containing the channels from this thread.
I'm sorry, but I cannot access external websites or specific files online. Therefore, I am unable to translate the text from the provided URL.

Post #8

And set the temperature to low.

Now, I wanted to create the log, and lo and behold, I finally have an error entry .

9480469 - Air conditioning compressor control.
B10A9 15 [009] - Interruption/Short circuit after positive terminal.
confirmed - checked since last deletion.
Environmental conditions:
Error status: 00000001
Error priority: 2
Error frequency: 1.
Lost Count: 253
Mileage: 98217 km
Date: 2061.14.00
Time: 18:51:51

That means, for me, that either...
1. close the control valve.
2. The problem is located in the power supply or the relay.

I've noticed that the compressor current is now 0.1xy A instead of 0.820 A.

What on earth is going on with the car manufacturers?

No documentation of the fuses and relays. Neither in the manual nor on the cover. No fuse holder for removing the fuses. The numbering of the fuses will be impossible to read without a magnifying glass, even with ~ 50 years of experience.

My fuses are okay. Especially fuse C23 seems to be responsible for controlling the climate control system.

Since I don't have any further documentation, my specific question is: Is there another relay that might be defective?

If not, then only the compressor's wiring or valve remain as possibilities.

Okay, so I attached a 10W lamp and checked if it works. Or, alternatively: apply 12V to the valve. You can hear a distinct clicking sound. I tried this just last week.

brezelmann01 wrote:

Apply 12V to the valve. You can hear a distinct clicking sound. I tried this just last week.

Hello Brezelmann,

The person who started this thread has a relatively modern vehicle, which is almost certainly equipped with a swashplate compressor. This means there's no simple on/off coupling anymore that you can hear clearly clicking (like in the days of, for example, the Volkswagen Golf 3).

Instead, the swashplate is deflected to varying degrees using a PWM signal, allowing for the generation of cooling power ranging from 2% to 100%. Does one actually hear such a loud clicking sound when adjusting the swashplate?

With the engine running, one should definitely be able to hear a noticeably different engine sound due to the significantly altered engine load.

Greetings.
Guste.