Hilfe: Motorschaden (Öldruckkontrollleuchte)? | Posts 16+

Hello!

I don't want to discourage you or paint a negative picture.
I read the question about how long such an engine can run without oil.

I can answer that because I've had similar oil pressure problems with a similar engine before.
It won't withstand anything without oil pressure.

It's so stripped down that you wonder how the engine even runs.

When I read the post, I also think that the engine ran for too long without oil pressure. And it probably wasn't running in neutral either.

Furthermore, I see a hydraulic chain tensioner, and I also don't understand why a chain would break "just like that."
It's quite possible that the pressure limiter in the oil pump isn't working, which is causing the chain to be pulled too tightly and therefore breaking.

You will only be able to confirm that when the engine is running again.

I can't really give you any advice right now.
It's definitely worth considering what might still be ahead of you.
Perhaps it would also be worth considering whether the connecting rod bearings from KW are replaceable.
And weigh all of that carefully – the workload, the cost of parts – and make a smart decision.

Steffen G wrote:

Hello! I don't want to discourage you or paint a negative picture. I read the question about how long such an engine can run without oil. I can answer that because I've had similar oil pressure problems with a similar engine before. It won't withstand anything without oil pressure. It's so stripped down that you wonder how the engine even runs. When I read the post, I also think that the engine ran for too long without oil pressure. And it certainly wasn't running in neutral. Furthermore, I see a hydraulic chain tensioner, and I also don't understand why a chain would break "just like that." It's quite possible that the pressure limiter in the oil pump isn't working, which is causing the chain to be pulled too tightly and therefore breaking. You will only be able to confirm that when the engine is running again. I can't really give you any advice right now. It's definitely worth considering what might still be ahead of you. Perhaps it would also be worth considering whether the connecting rod bearings from KW are replaceable. And weigh all of that carefully, considering the workload, part costs, and making a smart decision.

Hello Steffen,

Thank you for your assessment!
I'll remain optimistic for now...

What exactly could have been damaged?

Hi!

The most sensitive/critical part of the engine is the lower connecting rod bearing.

Often, it's possible to replace the bearing shells without much effort.
That's fine because the crankshaft journals are harder, so they don't wear out as quickly.

However, there are also (modern) engines where the bearing shells cannot be replaced.
Please verify this information; I only heard it from someone else.

You won't hear the noise from worn lower connecting rod bearings at idle, but when the engine is under load – even just by giving it a little gas – it produces a loud, knocking/hammering sound.
And typically, the oil then flows more easily out of the bearing housings, and the engine can no longer build up proper oil pressure.
You often only notice this when the engine is warm. And also the noise, because the oil is thinner then.

During my apprenticeship, the experienced craftsmen said that a motor can only run for a maximum of half a minute without oil. But it's definitely not good for it.

And I know from experience that if you drive it correctly, it can last for at least 1 kilometer. My father once installed the wrong oil filter on a car, and first it leaked oil, and then the connecting rod had so much play that it punched a hole in the engine block.

Steffen G wrote:

Hi! The most sensitive/critical part of the engine is the lower connecting rod bearing. Often, it's possible to replace the bearing shells without much effort. That's fine because the crankshaft journals are harder, so they don't wear out as quickly.

Hi Steffen!

The connecting rod bearings could be replaced. However, the instructions don't clearly state whether the crankshaft needs to be removed for this procedure.

What just occurred to me is: the turbocharger might also have been damaged, right?

"Just check your vehicle, please. If an engine runs without lubrication, a simple rule is that anything that relies on lubrication can become damaged."

matthiasTDI96 wrote:

Just check your vehicle, okay? If an engine runs without lubrication, then, according to a simple rule, everything that relies on lubrication can be damaged.

How can I check the turbocharger? Is it only possible through a test drive?

Yes, go ahead and take it for a test drive. It's best to accelerate in the highest gear.
Think about it.
You can try repairing the oil pump's drive mechanism; maybe that will fix everything.
You can also check the main bearings and connecting rod bearings beforehand, as they are likely corroded, and then replace the bearing shells if necessary.
The loader would follow me.
hg
Herbert.

Quote:

After a short drive, the light came on again and the engine showed a loss of power.

The miles you drove afterward were the most expensive. The loss of power indicates a faulty charger.
Please thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearings and it's best to replace them directly, including the screws. They don't cost much. The tightening torque was (I believe) 30 Nm + 90 degrees. Please make sure that the sputtered shells are facing upwards (according to the part number for original parts, or "Sputter" is printed on the upper shell for parts from aftermarket suppliers like KS or Glyco).

vwSchrauber wrote:

Quote: After a short drive, the light came on again, and the engine showed a loss of power. The remaining miles you drove were the most expensive. The loss of power indicates a faulty charger. Make sure to check the connecting rod bearings; it's best to replace them directly, including the screws. They don't cost much, and the tightening torque was (I believe) 30Nm + 90°. Please make absolutely sure that the sputtered shells are facing upwards (according to the part number for original parts; for parts from the aftermarket like KS or Glyco, the word "Sputter" will be printed on the upper shell).

Hi,

Thank you for your feedback and suggestions.
I'll probably do it that way.

"It's a pain with the turbo... I was hoping that maybe the loss of power was due to the emergency mode."

Well, I'll see what I can do...

What other problem existed alongside the broken chain that caused the car to switch to emergency mode?

Do you really believe it did that because it knew the oil pump was failing? Try searching and finding articles about dynamic oil pressure control specifically, and oil pressure control in general...

To anyone who might read this someday: If the warning light actually comes on while driving, it is recommended to immediately turn off the engine (even if it may already be too late). If there is no sign of low oil when checking the oil level, the engine should not be started without simultaneously measuring the oil pressure.

Here are some recent photos for those who are interested.

"So, the gear in the middle of image 2230 also looks very worn. But you would probably need to replace it anyway because of the missing tooth. Did you notice that the bracket for the hydraulic chain tensioner (2230, top right) is broken?"
haithamina

And here are a few more photos of the connecting rod bearing shells/crankshaft journals.

Hi!

A glove-wearing mechanic .

And what do you intend to do now?
Do you want to get the engine fixed?

Steffen G wrote:

Hi! A glove-wearing mechanic . And what do you intend to do now? Do you want to get the engine fixed?

Sure!
New connecting rod bearings, new tensioner and chain as well, and then maybe the turbo.