Neukauf Audi 80 1Z 1.9 TDI rußt stark und ruckelt | Posts 16+

Mpire wrote:

It's located under the carpet in the passenger footwell

.

Okay, this is also new to me .

Okay, I'll start looking for it then!

Thank you!

Can the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) of a 1993 vehicle be read out using VCDS?
It definitely works with the 94.
I would first check the hose connections to ensure they are in the correct configuration and, if necessary, make any required changes. It looks very "worn out."
(before it turns into a crafting and swapping event)
hg
Herbert.

edit: Comparing the photo of the valves and the diagram kindly posted by MPire, it appears that the connection to the vacuum actuator on the wastegate has been disconnected, meaning there is no boost increase.

phanlezz wrote:

Mpire wrote: It's located under the carpet in the passenger footwell . Okay, this is also new to me . Okay, I'll start looking for it then! Thank you!

At least, that's how it was for me, since the climate control unit was located behind the glove compartment.
The control unit was located directly underneath, and the felt insulation that was underneath the carpet had a cutout for it.

@ Herbert
Yes, my car had the 2x2 connector in the fuse box, and the ABS, airbag, and MSTG (likely referring to a specific vehicle system) could be accessed for reading and clearing error codes. The TDI timing checker also worked.

Regards, Mpire.

Hello everyone,

I finally had some time today to work on my winter car, but unfortunately, I'm starting to think that it's going to end up being a money pit.

I've completely and thoroughly checked the hoses and connected them exactly as shown in the picture.

The engine still has "normal" power and doesn't feel chipped anymore, meaning... it feels like it has 90 horsepower (I can tell because I still own a car with an AFN engine).

The control unit is original, and I've opened it up... everything looks good.

After looking for a power box, I also checked again, but I didn't find anything there either.

Unfortunately, my options are also somewhat limited regarding a workshop, as the vehicle is currently unregistered.

What else could be the reason for excessive diesel soot when accelerating?

Partial load jerks could be coming from the mass airflow sensor, but I need the correct adapter to read it with my PC first. I think I'll be a bit wiser after that .

Ideas are still welcome.

Greetings.

The engine has an air mass meter.
Based on the images, it's likely that the nozzle is either not connected to the NHG system or it wasn't (or isn't anymore) installed.
Okay, here's the translation:

"Please verschandeln up and make the deteriorated rubber hoses for the turbocharger pressure control and the EGR system usable, check the valve timing, and then use VCDS for the rest."
hg
Herbert.

In addition, adjustments have already been made to the wastegate valve.

- 2. Missing M6 screw for attaching the can.
- The actual yellow blob of threadlocker compound between the adjusting rod and the lock nut is located far away from the lock nut, indicating that it has already been twisted or moved.

The shaft is protruding too far, the valve is slightly open, which means there's no boost in the lower RPM range, and therefore it's producing soot.

The initial setting should be with the wastegate valve just closing, with a preload of 1mm plus or minus 0.25mm.
However, it can be a bit tricky to adjust, as the rod that connects to the adjustment lever on the flap needs to be detached.
Okay, so first measure the distance, then make one full rotation (a M6 thread has a pitch of 1mm).
Direction can, counter, engage, measure, if it fits -> done.


Regards, Mpire.

edit: It would be easy to identify this with a log ride using VCDS.

Is there any ventilation in that box? I would start by checking the air filter, or I've already found cleaning cloths inside the air filter housing.

Without a diagnosis, it will be a guessing game.

Hello everyone,

First of all, thank you for all your answers.

The starter motor has given up, and even a new starter motor isn't working. I suspect the ignition switch, which I need to replace soon, otherwise it's not going to start at all. I have also already obtained a suitable diagnostic cable along with the software, and I am eager to see what the data reveals!


Greetings.

I'm curious about that too...

My guess is:

The N75 valve was defective, so the hose was cut and connected directly to the wastegate. You won't be able to get above 0.6 bar with that, and the engine will be smoking.

The wastegate is opening here due to OVERPRESSURE.
Okay, first, I need to get a new N75 control valve and replace the hoses.

Edit: It's also possible that someone (a rascal) installed larger nozzles. That would further amplify the overall result.

Hello everyone,

Today, I finally had some time to tinker with things, and I went to the car with my laptop, eager to read the diagnostic data. Unfortunately, it didn't work because VCDS always displays the message "Not connected to vehicle!" Regardless, I need to check the dates again and possibly buy a new cable.

I also fiddled with the fuel injection pump, loosening the four mounting screws (2 in the front and 2 between the gears) and pushing the pump further upwards towards the engine. Don't worry, I've marked the original position.

Now, the thing is, it doesn't smoke at all when idling anymore, but only under partial and full load.

By rotating the pump towards the engine, am I advancing the fuel injection timing towards "earlier"?

I need to check the error memory sometime, and also have the fuel injection timing checked with a computer.

I think that we are slowly getting on the right track!

Greetings.

phanlezz wrote:

Hello everyone, Today, I finally had some time to tinker with things, and I went to the car with my laptop, eager to read the diagnostic data. Unfortunately, it didn't work because VCDS always displays the message "Not connected to vehicle!" No matter what, I need to check the dates again and, if necessary, buy a new cable.

Why don't you buy a genuine VCDS diagnostic system, for example, right here in our shop?
It makes many things much easier... both now and in the future.
........I'm speaking from experience .

Regards, Mpire.

Mpire wrote:

phanlezz wrote: Hello everyone, Today, I finally had some time to tinker with things, and I went to the car with my laptop, eager to read the diagnostic data. Unfortunately, it didn't work because VCDS always displays the message "Not connected to vehicle!" No matter what, I need to check the dates again and, if necessary, buy a new cable. Why don't you buy a genuine VCDS diagnostic system, for example, right here in our shop? It makes many things much easier... both now and in the future. ........I'm speaking from experience . Greetings Mpire

I generally agree with you, but I'm currently a bit short on funds and don't have €230 for the diagnostic system, and furthermore, I change my cars almost every six months, so three licenses wouldn't last very long.

I'm not expecting any support on that topic, though.

I've ordered a new cable again... let's see what the error memory says.

Greetings.

Then, in accordance with the forum's core principle, we will stop at the diagnostics section.
Sure, I'm happy to provide mechanical advice, but please no advice related to the STG (we'll exclude that).
hg
Herbert.

phanlezz wrote:

....which is why I wouldn't get very far with just 3 licenses

...it should be noted that 3 or 10 licenses only cover work performed in the workshop.
Do not clear the error memory!

See.
Okay, I'm ready. Please provide the German text you want me to translate.

Best regards,

Herbert wrote:

Then, in accordance with the forum's core principle, we will stop at the diagnostics section. Sure, I'm happy to provide mechanical advice, but please no advice related to the STG (we'll exclude that). hg Herbert

That is fine and also completely understandable .

Now, for a more "technical" question...

Is it possible to adjust the amount of fuel being used somewhere on the VP 37? I've now received the suggestion that the engine is getting too much fuel, and I should take a look at the diesel pump.

Is there such a screw available anywhere? I wouldn't know where to start.

Greetings.